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village？〃 And when we answered； they would sigh； and gaze
dumbly at us。 My travelling companion hated these irrepressible
rivals for charity。
199 MY FELLOW…TRAVELLER
In spite of all the difficulties of the journey； and the
scantiness of our food； Shakro； with his rich vitality； could
not acquire the lean； hungry look； of which the starving
peasants could boast in its fullest perfection。 Whenever he
caught sight； in the distance； of these latter； he would
exclaim： 〃Pouh！ pouh！ pouh。 Here they are again！ What are
they roaming about for？ They seem to be always on the move！
Is Russia too small for them？ I can't understand what they
want！ Russians are a stupid sort of people！〃
When I had explained to him the reason of the 〃stupid〃 Russians
coming to the Crimea； he shook his head incredulously； and
remarked： 〃I don't understand！ It's nonsense！ We never have
such 'stupid' things happening in Georgia！〃
We arrived in Kertch； as I have said； exhausted and hungry。
It was late。 We had to spend the night under a bridge； which
joined the harbor to the mainland。 We thought it better to
conceal ourselves； as we had been told that just before our
arrival all the tramps had been driven out of the town。 This
made us feel anxious； lest we might fall into the hands of
the police； besides Shakro had only a false passport； and if
that fact became known； it might lead to serious complications
in our future。
All night long the spray from the sea splashed over us。 At
dawn we left our hiding place； wet to the skin and bitterly
cold。 All day we wandered about the shore。 All we succeeded
in earning was a silver piece of the value of ten kopecks；
which was given me by the wife of a priest； in return for
helping her to carry home a bag of melons from the bazaar。
200 MY FELLOW…TRAVELLER
A narrow belt of water divided us from Taman； where we meant
to go； but not one boatman would consent to carry us over in
his boat； in spite of my pleadings。 Everyone here was up in
arms against the tramps； who； shortly before our arrival； had
performed a series of heroic exploits； and we were looked upon；
with good reason； as belonging to their set。
Evening came on。 I felt angry with the whole world； for my
lack of success； and I planned a somewhat risky scheme； which
I put into execution as soon as night came on。
CHAPTER VI。
Toward evening； Shakro and I stole quietly up toward the boats
of the custom house guardship。 There were three of them；
chained to iron rings； which rings were firmly screwed into the
stone wall of the quay。 It was pitch dark。 A strong wind
dashed the boats one against the other。 The iron chains
clanked noisily。 In the darkness and the noise； it was easy
for me to unscrew the ring from the stone wall。
Just above our heads the sentinel walked to and fro； whistling
through his teeth a tune。 Whenever he approached I stopped my
work； though； as a matter of fact； this was a useless
precaution； he could not even have suspected that a person
would sit up to his neck in the water； at a spot where the
backwash of a wave might at any moment carry him off his feet。
Besides； the chains never ceased clanking； as the wind swung
them backward and forward。
201 MY FELLOW…TRAVELLER
Shakro was already lying full length along the bottom of the
boat； muttering something； which the noise of the waves
prevented me from hearing。 At last the ring was in my hand。
At the same moment a wave caught our boat； and dashed it
suddenly some ten yards away from the side of the quay。 I
bad to swim for a few seconds by the side of the boat；
holding the chain in my hand。 At last I managed to scramble
in。 We tore up two boards from the bottom； and using these
as oars； I paddled away as fast as I could。
Clouds sailed rapidly over our heads； around； and underneath
the boat； waves splashed furiously。 Shakro sat aft。 Every
now and then I lost sight of him as the whole stern of the
boat slipped into some deep watery gulf； the next moment he
would rise high above my head； shouting desperately； and
almost falling forward into my arms。 I told him not to
shout； but to fasten his feet to the seat of the boat； as I
had already fastened mine。 I feared his shouts might give
the alarm。 He obeyed； and grew so silent that I only knew
he was in the boat by the white spot opposite to me； which I
knew must be his face。 The whole time he held the rudder in
his hand； we could not change places； we dared not move。
From time to time I called out instructions as to the
handling of the boat； and he understood me so quickly； and
did everything so cleverly； that one might have thought he
had been born a sailor。 The boards I was using in the place
of oars were of little use； they only blistered my hands。
The furious gusts of wind served to carry the boat forward。
202 MY FELLOW…TRAVELLER
I cared little for the direction； my only thought was to get
the boat across to the other side。 It was not difficult to
steer； for the lights in Kertch were still visible； and
served as a beacon。 The waves splashed over our boat with
angry hissings。 The farther across we got； the more furious
and the wilder became the waves。 Already we could hear a sort
of roar that held mind and soul as with a spell。 Faster and
faster our boat flew on before the wind； till it became almost
impossible to steer a course。 Every now and then we would
sink into a gulf； and the next moment we would rise high on
the summit of some enormous watery hill。 The darkness was
increasing； the clouds were sinking lower and lower。 The
lights of the town had disappeared。
Our state was growing desperate。 It seemed as if the expanse
of angry rollers was boundless and limitless。 We could see
nothing but these immense waves； that came rolling； one after
another； out of the gloom； straight on to our boat。 With an
angry crash a board was torn from my hand； forcing me to throw
the other into the boat； and to hold on tight with both hands
to the gunwale。 Every time the boat was thrown upward； Shakro
shrieked wildly。 As for me； I felt wretched and helpless； in
the darkness； surrounded with angry waves； whose noise deafened
me。 I stared about me in dull and chilly terror； and saw the
awful monotony around us。 Waves； nothing but waves； with
whitish crests； that broke in showers of salt spray； above us；
the thick ragged edged clouds were like waves too。
203 MY FELLOW…TRAVELLER
I became conscious only of one thing： I felt that all that was
going on around me might be immeasurably more majestic and more
terrible； but that it did not deign to be； and was restraining
its strength； and that I resented。 Death is inevitable。 But
that impartial law； reducing all to the same co