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picturesqueness of chivalry； and that it will hereafter always suggest to
me the last correctness of fashion。 It is through the horse that these
far extremes meet； in all times the horse has been the supreme expression
of aristocracy； and it may very well be that a dream of the elder world
prophesied the ultimate type of the future； when the Swell shall have
evolved into the Centaur。
Some such teasing notion of their mystical affinity is what haunts you as
you make your round of the vast ellipse； with the well…groomed men about
you and the well…groomed horses beyond the barrier。
In this first affair of the newcomer； the horses are not so much on
show as the swells； you get only glimpses of shining coats and tossing
manes； with a glint here and there of a flying hoof through the lines of
people coming and going； and the ranks of people； three or four feet
deep； against the rails of the ellipse； but the swells are there in
perfect relief； and it is they who finally embody the Horse Show to you。
The fact is that they are there to see； of course； but the effect is that
they are there to be seen。
The whole spectacle had an historical quality； which I tasted with
pleasure。 It was the thing that had eventuated in every civilization；
and the American might feel a characteristic pride that what came to Rome
in five hundred years had come to America in a single century。 There was
something fine in the absolutely fatal nature of the result； and I
perceived that nowhere else in our life； which is apt to be reclusive in
its exclusiveness； is the prime motive at work in it so dramatically
apparent。 〃Yes；〃 I found myself thinking； 〃this is what it all comes to：
the 'subiti guadagni' of the new rich； made in large masses and seeking a
swift and eager exploitation； and the slowly accumulated fortunes； put
together from sparing and scrimping； from slaving and enslaving； in
former times； and now in the stainless white hands of the second or third
generation； they both meet here to the purpose of a common ostentation；
and create a Horse Show。〃
I cannot say that its creators looked much as if they liked it； now they
had got it； and； so far as I have been able to observe them； people of
wealth and fashion always dissemble their joy； and have the air of being
bored in the midst of their amusements。 This reserve of rapture may be
their delicacy； their unwillingness to awaken envy in the less prospered；
and I should not have objected to the swells at the Horse Show looking
dreary if they had looked more like swells； except for a certain hardness
of the countenance （which I found my own sympathetically taking on） I
should not have thought them very patrician； and this hardness may have
been merely the consequence of being so much stared at。 Perhaps； indeed；
they were not swells whom I saw in the boxes； but only companies of
ordinary people who had clubbed together and hired their boxes；
I understand that this can be done； and the student of civilization so
far misled。 But certainly if they were swells they did not look quite up
to themselves； though； for that matter； neither do the nobilities of
foreign countries； and on one or two occasions when I have seen them；
kings and emperors have failed me in like manner。 They have all wanted
that indescribable something which I have found so satisfying in
aristocracies and royalties on the stage； and here at the Horse Show；
while I made my tour； I constantly met handsome； actor…like folk on foot
who could much better have taken the role of the people in the boxes。
The promenaders may not have been actors at all； they may have been the
real thing for which I was in vain scanning the boxes； but they looked
like actors； who indeed set an example to us all in personal beauty and
in correctness of dress。
I mean nothing offensive either to swells or to actors。 We have not
distinction； as a people； Matthew Arnold noted that； and it is not our
business to have it： When it is our business our swells will have it；
just as our actors now have it； especially our actors of English birth。
I had not this reflection about me at the time to console me for my
disappointment； and it only now occurs to me that what I took for an
absence of distinction may have been such a universal prevalence of it
that the result was necessarily a species of indistinction。 But in the
complexion of any social assembly we Americans are at a disadvantage with
Europeans from the want of uniforms。 A few military scattered about in
those boxes； or even a few sporting bishops in shovel…hats and aprons；
would have done much to relieve them from the reproach I have been
heaping upon them。 Our women； indeed； poor things； always do their duty
in personal splendor； and it is not of a poverty in their modes at the
Horse Show that I am complaining。 If the men had borne their part as
well； there would not have been these tears： and yet； what am I saying？
There was here and there a clean…shaven face （which I will not believe
was always an actor's）； and here and there a figure superbly set up； and
so faultlessly appointed as to shoes； trousers； coat； tie； hat； and
gloves as to have a salience from the mass of good looks and good clothes
which I will not at last call less than distinction。
II。
At any rate； I missed these marked presences when I left the lines of the
promenaders around the ellipse； and climbed to a seat some tiers above
the boxes。 I am rather anxious to have it known that my seat was not one
of those cheap ones in the upper gallery； but was with the virtuous poor
who could afford to pay a dollar and a half for their tickets。 I bought
it of a speculator on the sidewalk； who said it was his last； so that I
conceived it the last in the house； but I found the chairs by no means
all filled； though it was as good an audience as I have sometimes seen in
the same place at other circuses。 The people about me were such as I had
noted at the other circuses； hotel…sojourners； kindly…looking comers from
provincial towns and cities； whom I instantly felt myself at home with；
and free to put off that gloomy severity of aspect which had grown upon
me during my association with the swells below。 My neighbors were
sufficiently well dressed； and if they had no more distinction than their
betters； or their richers； they had not the burden of the occasion upon
them； and seemed really glad of what was going on in the ring。
There again I was sensible of the vast advantage of costume。 The bugler
who stood up at one end of the central platform and blew a fine fanfare
（I hope it was a fanfare） towards the gates where the horses were to
enter from their stalls in the basement was a hussar…like shape that
filled my romantic soul with joy； and the other figures of the management
I thought very fortunate compromises between grooms and ringmasters。 At
any rate； their nondescript costumes were gay； and a relief from the
fashions in the boxes and the promenade； they were costumes； and costumes
are always more sincere； if not more effective； than fashions。 As I have
hinted； I do not know just what costumes they were； but they took the
light