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hostility to their theories and practice； and none the less told this story。
He said that some of the Russian troops in the Archangel district refused to
go to the front。 Their commanders； unable to compel them； resigned
and were replaced by others who； since the men persisted in refusal；
appealed for help。 The barracks； so he said； were then surrounded by
American troops； and the Russians； who had refused to go to the front to
fire on other Russians； were given the choice； either that every tenth man
should be shot； or that they should give up their ringleaders。 The
ringleaders； twelve in number； were given up； were made to dig their own
graves； and shot。 The whole story may well be Archangel gossip。 If so；
as a specimen of such gossip； it is not without significance。 In another
part of the carriage an argument on the true nature of selfishness caused
some heat because the disputants insisted on drawing their illustrations
from each other's conduct。 Then there was the diversion of a swearing
match at a wayside station between the conductor and some one who tried
to get into this carriage and should have got into another。 Both were
fluent and imaginative swearers； and even the man from Archangel
stopped talking to listen to them。 One； I remember； prayed vehemently
that the other's hand might fly off； and the other； not to be outdone；
retorted with a similar prayer with regard to the former's head。 In
England the dispute； which became very fierce indeed； would have ended
in assault； but here it ended in nothing but the collection on the platform of
a small crowd of experts in bad language who applauded verbal hits with
impartiality and enthusiasm。
At last I tried to sleep； but the atmosphere in the carriage； of smoke；
babies； stale clothes； and the peculiar smell of the Russian peasantry
… Page 17…
RUSSIA IN 1919
which no one who has known it can forget； made sleep impossible。 But I
travelled fairly comfortably； resolutely shutting my ears to the talk；
thinking of fishing in England； and shifting from one bone to another as
each ached in turn from contact with the plank on which I lay。
… Page 18…
RUSSIA IN 1919
FIRST DAYS IN MOSCOW
It was a rare cold day when I struggled through the crowd out of the
station in Moscow； and began fighting with the sledge…drivers who asked a
hundred roubles to take me to the Metropole。 I remembered coming here
a year ago with Colonel Robins； when we made ten roubles a limit for the
journey and often travelled for eight。 To…day； after heated bargaining； I
got carried with no luggage but a typewriter for fifty roubles。 The streets
were white with deep snow； less well cleaned than the Petrograd streets of
this year but better cleaned than the Moscow streets of last year。 The
tramways were running。 There seemed to be at least as many sledges as
usual； and the horses were in slightly better condition than last summer
when they were scarcely able to drag themselves along。 I asked the
reason of the improvement； and the driver told me the horses＇26＇were now
rationed like human beings； and all got a small allowance of oats。 There
were crowds of people about； but the numbers of closed shops were very
depressing。 I did not then know that this was due to the nationalization
of trade and a sort of general stock…taking； the object of which was to
prevent profiteering in manufactured goods； etc。； of which there were not
enough to go round。 Before I left many shops were being reopened as
national concerns； like our own National Kitchens。 Thus； one would see
over a shop the inscription； 〃The 5th Boot Store of the Moscow Soviet〃 or
〃The 3rd Clothing Store of the Moscow Soviet〃 or 〃The 11th Book Shop。〃
It had been found that speculators bought； for example； half a dozen
overcoats； and sold them to the highest bidders； thus giving the rich an
advantage over the poor。 Now if a man needs a new suit he has to go in
his rags to his House Committee； and satisfy them that he really needs a
new suit for himself。 He is then given the right to buy a suit。 In this
way an attempt is made to prevent speculation and to ensure a more or less
equitable distribution of the inadequate stocks。 My greatest surprise was
given me by the Metropole itself； because the old wounds of the
revolution； which were left unhealed all last summer； the shell…holes and
bullet splashes which marked it when I was here before； have been
… Page 19…
RUSSIA IN 1919
repaired。
Litvinov had given me a letter to Karakhan of the Commissariat of
Foreign Affairs； asking him to help me in getting a room。 I found him at
the Metropole； still smoking as it were the cigar of six months ago。
Karakhan； a handsome Armenian； elegantly bearded and moustached；
once irreverently described by Radek as 〃a donkey of classical beauty；〃
who has consistently used such influence as he has in favour of
moderation and agreement with the Allies； greeted me very cordially； and
told me that the foreign visitors were to be housed in the Kremlin。 I told
him I should much prefer to live in an hotel in the ordinary way； and he at
once set about getting a room for me。 This was no easy business； though
he obtained an authorization from Sverdlov； president of the executive
committee； for me to live where I wished； in the Metropole or the National；
which are mostly reserved for Soviet delegates； officials and members of
the Executive Committee。 Both were full； and he finally got me a room
in the old Loskutnaya Hotel； now the Red Fleet； partially reserved for
sailor delegates and members of the Naval College。
Rooms are distributed on much the same plan as clothes。 Housing is
considered a State monopoly； and a general census of housing
accommodation has taken place。 In every district there are housing
committees to whom people want