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a background of that extraordinary vitality which obstinately persists in
Moscow even in these dark days of discomfort； disillusion； pestilence；
starvation and unwanted war。
ARTHUR RANSOME。
… Page 5…
RUSSIA IN 1919
TO PETROGRAD
On January 30 a party of four newspaper correspondents； two
Norwegians； a Swede and myself； left Stockholm to go into Russia。 We
travelled with the members of the Soviet Government's Legation； headed
by Vorovsky and Litvinov； who were going home after the breaking off of
official relations by Sweden。 Some months earlier I had got leave from
the Bolsheviks to go into Russia to get further material for my history of
the revolution； but at the last moment there was opposition and it seemed
likely that I should be refused permission。 Fortunately； however； a copy
of the Morning Post reached Stockholm； containing a report of a lecture
by Mr。 Lockhart in which he had said that as I had been out of Russia for
six months I had no right to speak of conditions there。 Armed with this I
argued that it would be very unfair if I were not allowed to come and see
things for myself。 I had no further difficulties。
We crossed by boat to Abo； grinding our way through the ice； and
then travelled by rail to the Russian frontier； taking several days over the
journey owing to delays variously explained by the Finnish authorities。
We were told that the Russian White Guards had planned an attack on the
train。 Litvinov； half…smiling； wondered if they were purposely giving time
to the White Guards to organize such an attack。 Several nervous folk
inclined to that opinion。 But at Viborg we were told that there were
grave disorders in Petrograd and that the Finns did not wish to fling us into
the middle of a scrimmage。 Then someone obtained a newspaper and we
read a detailed account of what was happening。 This account was； as I
learnt on my return； duly telegraphed to England like much other news of
a similar character。 There had been a serious revolt in Petrograd。 The
Semenovsky regiment had gone over to the mutineers； who had seized the
town。 The Government； however； had escaped to Kronstadt； whence
they were bombarding Petrograd with naval guns。
This sounded fairly lively； but there was nothing to be done； so we
finished up the chess tournament we had begun on the boat。 An
Esthonian won it； and I was second； by reason of a lucky win over
… Page 6…
RUSSIA IN 1919
Litvinov； who is really a better player。 By Sunday night we reached
Terijoki and on Monday moved slowly to the frontier of Finland close to
Bieloostrov。 A squad of Finnish soldiers was waiting； excluding
everybody from the station and seeing that no dangerous revolutionary
should break away on Finnish territory。 There were no horses； but three
hand sledges were brought； and we piled the luggage on them； and then set
off to walk to the frontier duly convoyed by the Finns。 A Finnish
lieutenant walked at the head of the procession； chatting good…humouredly
in Swedish and German； much as a man might think it worth while to be
kind to a crowd of unfortunates just about to be flung into a boiling
cauldron。 We walked a few hundred yards along the line and then turned
into a road deep in snow through a little bare wood； and so down to the
little wooden bridge over the narrow frozen stream that separates Finland
from Russia。 The bridge； not twenty yards across； has a toll bar at each
end； two sentry boxes and two sentries。 On the Russian side the bar was
the familiar black and white of the old Russian Empire； with a sentry box
to match。 The Finns seemingly had not yet had time to paint their bar
and box。
The Finns lifted their toll bar； and the Finnish officers leading our
escort walked solemnly to the middle of the bridge。 Then the luggage
was dumped there； while we stood watching the trembling of the rickety
little bridge under the weight of our belongings； for we were all taking in
with us as much food as we decently could。 We were none of us allowed
on the bridge until an officer and a few men had come down to meet us on
the Russian side。 Only little Nina； Vorovskv's daughter； about ten years
old； chattering Swedish with the Finns； got leave from them； and shyly；
step by step； went down the other side of the bridge and struck up
acquaintance with the soldier of the Red Army who stood there； gun in
hand； and obligingly bent to show her the sign； set in his hat； of the
crossed sickle and hammer of the Peasants' and Workmen's Republic。 At
last the Finnish lieutenant took the list of his prisoners and called out the
names 〃Vorovsky； wife and one bairn；〃 looking laughingly over his
shoulder at Nina flirting with the sentry。 Then 〃Litvinov；〃 and so on
through all the Russians； about thirty of them。 We four visitors；
… Page 7…
RUSSIA IN 1919
Grimlund the Swede； Puntervald and Stang； the Norwegians； and I； came
last。 At last； after a general shout of farewell； and 〃Helse Finland〃 from
Nina； the Finns turned and went back into their civilization； and we went
forward into the new struggling civilization of Russia。 Crossing that
bridge we passed from one philosophy to another； from one extreme of the
class struggle to the other； from a dictatorship of the bourgeoisie to a
dictatorship of the proletariat。
The contrast was noticeable at once。 On the Finnish side of the
frontier we had seen the grandiose new frontier station； much larger than
could possibly be needed； but quite a good expression of the spirit of the
new Finland。 On the Russian side we came to the same grey old wooden
station known to all passengers to and from Russia for polyglot profanity
and passport difficulties。 There were no porters； which was not
surprising because there is barbed wire and an extremely hostile sort of
neutrality along the frontier and traffic across has practically ceased。 In