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pleasure and diversion of the citizens； but since feeling too
sensibly the sinking circumstances of that once glorious family；
who were the first peers and hereditary earl…marshals of England。
The walls of this city are reckoned three miles in circumference；
taking in more ground than the City of London； but much of that
ground lying open in pasture…fields and gardens； nor does it seem
to be； like some ancient places； a decayed； declining town； and
that the walls mark out its ancient dimensions； for we do not see
room to suppose that it was ever larger or more populous than it is
now。 But the walls seem to be placed as if they expected that the
city would in time increase sufficiently to fill them up with
buildings。
The cathedral of this city is a fine fabric； and the spire steeple
very high and beautiful。 It is not ancient； the bishop's see
having been first at Thetford； from whence it was not translated
hither till the twelfth century。 Yet the church has so many
antiquities in it； that our late great scholar and physician； Sir
Thomas Brown； thought it worth his while to write a whole book to
collect the monuments and inscriptions in this church； to which I
refer the reader。
The River Yare runs through this city； and is navigable thus far
without the help of any art （that is to say； without locks or
stops）； and being increased by other waters； passes afterwards
through a long tract of the richest meadows； and the largest； take
them all together； that are anywhere in England； lying for thirty
miles in length； from this city to Yarmouth； including the return
of the said meadows on the bank of the Waveney south； and on the
River Thyrn north。
Here is one thing indeed strange in itself； and more so； in that
history seems to be quite ignorant of the occasion of it。 The
River Waveney is a considerable river； and of a deep and full
channel； navigable for large barges as high as Beccles； it runs for
a course of about fifty miles； between the two counties of Suffolk
and Norfolk； as a boundary to both； and pushing on； though with a
gentle stream； towards the sea； no one would doubt； but； that when
they see the river growing broader and deeper； and going directly
towards the sea； even to the edge of the beach … that is to say；
within a mile of the main ocean … no stranger； I say； but would
expect to see its entrance into the sea at that place； and a noble
harbour for ships at the mouth of it； when on a sudden； the land
rising high by the seaside； crosses the head of the river； like a
dam； checks the whole course of it； and it returns； bending its
course west； for two miles； or thereabouts； and then turning north；
through another long course of meadows （joining to those just now
mentioned） seeks out the River Yare； that it may join its water
with hers； and find their way to the sea together
Some of our historians tell a long； fabulous story of this river
being once open； and a famous harbour for ships belonging to a town
of Lowestoft adjoining； but that the town of Yarmouth envying the
prosperity of the said town of Lowestoft； made war upon them； and
that after many bloody battles； as well by sea as by land； they
came at last to a decisive action at sea with their respective
fleets； and the victory fell to the Yarmouth men； the Lowestoft
fleet being overthrown and utterly destroyed； and that upon this
victory； the Yarmouth men either actually did stop up the mouth of
the said river； or obliged the vanquished Lowestoft men to do it
themselves； and bound them never to attempt to open it again。
I believe my share of this story； and I recommend no more of it to
the reader； adding； that I see no authority for the relation；
neither do the relators agree either in the time of it； or in the
particulars of the fact； that is to say； in whose reign； or under
what government all this happened； in what year； and the like； so I
satisfy myself with transcribing the matter of fact； and then leave
it as I find it。
In this vast tract of meadows are fed a prodigious number of black
cattle which are said to be fed up for the fattest beef； though not
the largest in England； and the quantity is so great； as that they
not only supply the city of Norwich； the town of Yarmouth； and
county adjacent； but send great quantities of them weekly in all
the winter season to London。
And this in particular is worthy remark； that the gross of all the
Scots cattle which come yearly into England are brought hither；
being brought to a small village lying north of the city of
Norwich； called St。 Faith's； where the Norfolk graziers go and buy
them。
These Scots runts； so they call them； coming out of the cold and
barren mountains of the Highlands in Scotland； feed so eagerly on
the rich pasture in these marshes； that they thrive in an unusual
manner； and grow monstrously fat； and the beef is so delicious for
taste； that the inhabitants prefer them to the English cattle；
which are much larger and fairer to look at； and they may very well
do so。 Some have told me； and I believe with good judgment； that
there are above forty thousand of these Scots cattle fed in this
county every year； and most of them in the said marshes between
Norwich； Beccles； and Yarmouth。
Yarmouth is an ancient town； much older than Norwich； and at
present； though not standing on so much ground； yet better built；
much more complete； for number of inhabitants； not much inferior；
and for wealth； trade； and advantage of its situation； infinitely
superior to Norwich。
It is placed on a peninsula between the River Yare and the sea； the
two last lying parallel to one another； and the town in the middle。
The river lies on the west side of the town； and being grown very
large and deep； by a conflux of all the rivers on this side the
county； forms the haven； and the town facing to the west also； and
open to the river； makes the finest quay in England； if not in
Europe； not inferior even to that of Marseilles itself。
The ships ride here so close； and； as it were； keeping up one
another； with their headfasts on shore； that for half a mile
together they go across the stream with their bowsprits over the
land； their bows； or heads touching the very wharf； so that one may
walk from ship to ship as on a floating bridge； all along by the
shore…side。 The quay reaching from the drawbridge almost to the
south gate； is so spacious and wide； that in some places it is near
one hundred yards from the houses to the wharf。 In this pleasant
and agreeable range of houses are some very magnificent buildings；
and among the rest； the Custom House and Town Hall； and some
merchant's houses； which look like little palaces rather than the
dwelling…houses of private men。
The greatest defect of this beautiful town seems to be that； though
it is very rich and increasing in wealth and trade； and
consequently in people； there is not room to enlarge the town by
bui