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willing to learn。 Some of my compatriots have adopted too much of
your customs and too much of your etiquette； in the delusion that the
acquisition of stiff collars and tall silk hats comprised the attainment of
your civilisation。 Pathetic and deplorable as such affectations are； they
evince our willingness to approach the West on our knees。 Unfortunately
the Western attitude is unfavourable to the understanding of the East。
The Christian missionary goes to impart； but not to receive。 Your
information is based on the meagre translations of our immense literature；
if not on the unreliable anecdotes of passing travellers。 It is rarely that
the chivalrous pen of a Lafcadio Hearn or that of the author of 〃The Web
of Indian Life〃 enlivens the Oriental darkness with the torch of our own
sentiments。
Perhaps I betray my own ignorance of the Tea Cult by being so
outspoken。 Its very spirit of politeness exacts that you say what you are
expected to say； and no more。 But I am not to be a polite Teaist。 So
much harm has been done already by the mutual misunderstanding of the
New World and the Old； that one need not apologise for contributing his
tithe to the furtherance of a better understanding。 The beginning of the
twentieth century would have been spared the spectacle of sanguinary
warfare if Russia had condescended to know Japan better。 What dire
consequences to humanity lie in the contemptuous ignoring of Eastern
problems！ European imperialism； which does not disdain to raise the
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The Book of Tea
absurd cry of the Yellow Peril； fails to realise that Asia may also awaken to
the cruel sense of the White Disaster。 You may laugh at us for having
〃too much tea；〃 but may we not suspect that you of the West have 〃no tea〃
in your constitution？
Let us stop the continents from hurling epigrams at each other； and
be sadder if not wiser by the mutual gain of half a hemisphere。 We have
developed along different lines； but there is no reason why one should
not supplement the other。 You have gained expansion at the cost of
restlessness； we have created a harmony which is weak against aggression。
Will you believe it？the East is better off in some respects than the West！
Strangely enough humanity has so far met in the tea…cup。 It is the only
Asiatic ceremonial which commands universal esteem。 The white man
has scoffed at our religion and our morals； but has accepted the brown
beverage without hesitation。 The afternoon tea is now an important
function in Western society。 In the delicate clatter of trays and saucers；
in the soft rustle of feminine hospitality； in the common catechism about
cream and sugar； we know that the Worship of Tea is established beyond
question。 The philosophic resignation of the guest to the fate awaiting
him in the dubious decoction proclaims that in this single instance the
Oriental spirit reigns supreme。
The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in the
statement of an Arabian traveller； that after the year 879 the main sources
of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea。 Marco Polo records
the deposition of a Chinese minister of finance in 1285 for his arbitrary
augmentation of the tea…taxes。 It was at the period of the great
discoveries that the European people began to know more about the
extreme Orient。 At the end of the sixteenth century the Hollanders
brought the news that a pleasant drink was made in the East from the
leaves of a bush。 The travellers Giovanni Batista Ramusio （1559）； L。
Almeida （1576）； Maffeno （1588）； Tareira （1610）； also mentioned tea。 In
the last…named year ships of the Dutch East India Company brought the
first tea into Europe。 It was known in France in 1636； and reached
Russia in 1638。 England welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as 〃That
excellent and by all physicians approved China drink； called by the
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The Book of Tea
Chineans Tcha； and by other nations Tay； alias Tee。〃
Like all good things of the world； the propaganda of Tea met with
opposition。 Heretics like Henry Saville （1678） denounced drinking it as
a filthy custom。 Jonas Hanway （Essay on Tea； 1756） said that men
seemed to lose their stature and comeliness； women their beauty through
the use of tea。 Its cost at the start （about fifteen or sixteen shillings a
pound） forbade popular consumption； and made it 〃regalia for high
treatments and entertainments； presents being made thereof to princes and
grandees。〃 Yet in spite of such drawbacks tea…drinking spread with
marvellous rapidity。 The coffee…houses of London in the early half of the
eighteenth century became； in fact； tea…houses； the resort of wits like
Addison and Steele； who beguiled themselves over their 〃dish of tea。〃
The beverage soon became a necessity of lifea taxable matter。 We are
reminded in this connection what an important part it plays in modern
history。 Colonial America resigned herself to oppression until human
endurance gave way before the heavy duties laid on Tea。 American
independence dates from the throwing of tea…chests into Boston harbour。
There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible
and capable of idealisation。 Western humourists were not slow to mingle
the fragrance of their thought with its aroma。 It has not the arrogance
of wine； the self… consciousness of coffee； nor the simpering innocence of
cocoa。 Already in 1711； says the Spectator： 〃I would therefore in a
particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well…regulated
families that set apart an hour every morning for tea； bread and butter； and
woul