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they have been somewhat hastily constructed； of mud and plaster； but
they recall none the less those gracious palaces with which the
Compagnie des Wagon…Lits has dowered the world。 And how negligible
now； how dwarfed by the height of their facades； is the poor little
town of olden times； with its little houses； whitened with chalk； and
its baby minaret。
The cataract； on the other hand； has disappeared from Assouan。 The
tutelary Albion wisely considered that it would be better to sacrifice
that futile spectacle and； in order to increase the yield of the soil；
to dam the waters of the Nile by an artificial barrage： a work of
solid masonry which （in the words of the Programme of Pleasure Trips）
〃affords an interest of a very different nature and degree〃 （sic）。
But nevertheless Cook & Sona business concern glossed with poetry；
as all the world knowshave endeavoured to perpetuate the memory of
the cataract by giving its name to a hotel of 500 rooms； which as a
result of their labours has been established opposite to those rocks
now reduced to silenceover which the old Nile used to seethe for so
many centuries。 〃Cataract Hotel！〃that gives the illusion still； does
it not？and looks remarkably well at the head of a sheet of
notepaper。
Cook & Son （Egypt Ltd。） have even gone so far as to conceive the idea
that it would be original to give to their establishment a certain
/cachet/ of Islam。 And the dining…room reproduces （in imitation； of
coursebut then you must not expect the impossible） the interior of
one of the mosques of Stamboul。 At the luncheon hour it is one of the
prettiest sights in the world to see； under this imitation holy
cupola； all the little tables crowded with Cook's tourists of both
sexes； the while a concealed orchestra strikes up the 〃Mattchiche。〃
The dam； it is true； in suppressing the cataract has raised some
thirty feet or so the level of the water upstream； and by so doing has
submerged a certain Isle of Philae； which passed； absurdly enough； for
one of the marvels of the world by reason of its great temple of Isis；
surrounded by palm…trees。 But between ourselves； one may say that the
beautiful goddess was a little old…fashioned for our times。 She and
her mysteries had had their day。 Besides； if there should be any
chagrined soul who might regret the disappearance of the island； care
has been taken to perpetuate the memory of it； in the same way as that
of the cataract。 Charming coloured postcards； taken before the
submerging of the island and the sanctuary； are on sale in all the
bookshops along the quay。
Oh！ this quay of Assouan； already so British in its orderliness； its
method！ Nothing better cared for； nothing more altogether charming
could be conceived。 First of all there is the railway； which； passing
between balustrades painted a grass…green； gives out its fascinating
noise and joyous smoke。 On one side is a row of hotels and shops； all
European in characterhairdressers； perfumers； and numerous dark
rooms for the use of the many amateur photographers； who make a point
of taking away with them photographs of their travelling companions
grouped tastefully before some celebrated hypogeum。
And then numerous cafes； where the whisky is of excellent quality。
And； I ought to add； in justice to the result of the /Entente
Cordiale/； you may see there； too； aligned in considerable quantities
on the shelves； the products of those great French philanthropists； to
whom indeed our generation does not render sufficient homage for all
the good they have done to its stomach and its head。 The reader will
guess that I have named Pernod； Picon and Cusenier。
It may be indeed that the honest fellahs and Nubians of the
neighbourhood； so sober a little while ago； are apt to abuse these
tonics a little。 But that is the effect of novelty； and will pass。 And
anyhow； amongst us Europeans； there is no need to conceal the fact
for we do not all make use of it involuntarily？that alcoholism is a
powerful auxiliary in the propagation of our ideas； and that the
dealer in wines and spirits constitutes a valuable vanguard pioneer
for our Western civilisation。 Races； insensibly depressed by the abuse
of our 〃appetisers；〃 become more supple； more easy to lead in the true
path of progress and liberty。
On this quay of Assouan； so carefully levelled； defiles briskly a
continual stream of fair travellers ravishingly dressed as only those
know how who have made a tour with Cook & Son （Egypt Ltd。）。 And along
the Nile； in the shade of the young trees； planted with the utmost
nicety and precision； the flower…beds and straight…cut turf are
protected efficaciously by means of wire…netting against certain acts
of forgetfulness to which dogs； alas； are only too much addicted。
Here； too； everything is ticketed； everything has its number： the
donkeys； the donkey…drivers； the stations even where they are allowed
to stand〃Stand for six donkeys； stand for ten； etc。〃 Some very
handsome camels； fitted with riding saddles； wait also in their
respective places and a number of Cook ladies； meticulous on the point
of local colour； even when it is merely a question of making some
purchases in the town； readily mount for some moments one or other of
these 〃ships of the desert。〃
And at every fifty yards a policeman； still Egyptian in his
countenance； but quite English in his bearing and costume； keeps a
vigilant eye on everythingwould never suffer； for example； that an
eleventh donkey should dare to take a place in a stand for ten； which
was already full。
Certain people； inclined to be critical； might consider； perhaps； that
these policemen were a little too ready to chide their fellow…
countrymen； whereas on the contrary they showed themselves very
respectful and obliging whenever they were addressed by a traveler in
a cork helmet。 But that is in virtue of an equitable and logical
principle； derived by them from the high places of the new
administrationnamely； that the Egypt of to…day belongs far less to
the Egyptians than to the noble foreigners who have come to brandish
there the torch of civilisation。
In the evening； after dark； the really respectable travellers do not
quit the brilliant dining saloons of the hotels； and the quay is left
quite solitary beneath the stars。 It is at such a time that one is
able to realise how extremely hospitable certain of the natives are
become。 If； in an hour of melancholy； you walk alone on the bank of
the Nile； smoking a cigarette； you will not fail to be accosted by one
of these good people； who misunderstanding the cause of the unrest in
your soul； offers eagerly； and with a touching frankness； to introduce
you to the gayest of the young ladies of the country。
In the other towns； which still remain purely Egyptian； the people
would never practise such an excess of affability and good manners；
which have been learnt； beyond all question from our beneficent
contact。