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〃Your permit； sir。〃
〃Here it is。〃
（Here we combine our efforts to illuminate the said permit by the
light of a match。）
〃Good； I will go with you。〃
〃No。 I beg of you。〃
〃Yes； I had better。 Where are you going？〃
〃Beyond； to the temple of that ladyyou know； who is great and
powerful and has a face like a lioness。〃
〃Ah！ 。 。 。 Yes； I think I understand that you would prefer to go
alone。〃 （Here the intonation becomes infantine。） 〃But you are a kind
gentleman and will not forget the poor Bedouin all the same。〃
He goes on his way。 On leaving the palaces I have still to traverse an
extent of uncultivated country； where a veritable cold seizes me。
Above my head no longer the heavy suspended stones； but the far…off
expanse of the blue night skywhere are shining now myriads upon
myriads of stars。 For the Thebans of old this beautiful vault；
scintillating always with its powder of diamonds； shed no doubt only
serenity upon their souls。 But for us； /who knows； alas！/ it is on the
contrary the field of the great fear； which； out of pity； it would
have been better if we had never been able to see； the incommensurable
black void； where the worlds in their frenzied whirling precipitate
themselves like rain； crash into and annihilate one another； only to
be renewed for fresh eternities。
All this is seen too vividly； the horror of it becomes intolerable； on
a clear night like this； in a place so silent and littered so with
ruins。 More and more the cold penetrates youthe mournful cold of the
sidereal spheres from which nothing now seems to protect you； so
rarefiedalmost non…existentdoes the limpid atmosphere appear。 And
the gravel； the poor dried herbs； that crackle under foot； give the
illusion of the crunching noise we know at home on winter nights when
the frost is on the ground。
I approach at length the temple of the Ogress。 These stones which now
appear； whitish in the night； this secret…looking dwelling near the
boundary wall of Thebes； proclaim the spot； and verily at such an hour
as this it has an evil aspect。 Ptolemaic columns； little vestibules；
little courtyards where a dim blue light enables you to find your way。
Nothing moves； not even the flight of a night bird： an absolute
silence； magnified awfully by the presence of the desert which you
feel encompasses you beyond these walls。 And beyond； at the bottom；
three chambers made of massive stone； each with its separate entrance。
I know that the first two are empty。 It is in the third that the
Ogress dwells； unless； indeed； she has already set out upon her
nocturnal hunt for human flesh。 Pitch darkness reigns within and I
have to grope my way。 Quickly I light a match。 Yes； there she is
indeed； alone and upright； almost part of the end wall； on which my
little light makes the horrible shadow of her head dance。 The match
goes outirreverently I light many more under her chin； under that
heavy； man…eating jaw。 In very sooth； she is terrifying。 Of black
granitelike her sisters； seated on the margin of the mournful lake
but much taller than they； from six to eight feet in height； she has a
woman's body； exquisitely slim and young； with the breasts of a
virgin。 Very chaste in attitude； she holds in her hand a long…stemmed
lotus flower； but by a contrast that nonplusses and paralyses you the
delicate shoulders support the monstrosity of a huge lioness' head。
The lappets of her bonnet fall on either side of her ears almost down
to her breast； and surmounting the bonnet； by way of addition to the
mysterious pomp； is a large moon disc。 Her dead stare gives to the
ferocity of her visage something unreasoning and fatal； an
irresponsible ogress； without pity as without pleasure； devouring
after the manner of Nature and of Time。 And it was so perhaps that she
was understood by the initiated of ancient Egypt； who symbolised
everything for the people in the figures of gods。
In the dark retreat； enclosed with defaced stones； in the little
temple where she stands； alone； upright and grand； with her enormous
head and thrust…out chin and tall goddess' headdressone is
necessarily quite close to her。 In touching her； at night； you are
astonished to find that she is less cold than the air； she becomes
somebody； and the intolerable dead stare seems to weigh you down。
During the /tete…a…tete/； one thinks involuntarily of the
surroundings； of these ruins in the desert； of the prevailing
nothingness； of the cold beneath the stars。 And； now； that summation
of doubt and despair and terror； which such an assemblage of things
inspires in you； is confirmed； if one may say so； by the meeting with
this divinity…symbol； which awaits you at the end of the journey； to
receive ironically all human prayer； a rigid horror of granite； with
an implacable smile and a devouring jaw。
CHAPTER XIX
A TOWN PROMPTLY EMBELLISHED
Eight years and a line of railway have sufficed to accomplish its
metamorphosis。 Once in Upper Egypt； on the borders of Nubia； there was
a little humble town； rarely visited； and wanting； it must be owned；
in elegance and even in comfort。
Not that it was without picturesqueness and historical interest。 Quite
the contrary。 The Nile； charged with the waters of equatorial Africa；
flung itself close by from the height of a mass of black granite； in a
majestic cataract； and then； before the little Arab houses； became
suddenly calm again； and flowed between islets of fresh verdure where
clusters of palm…trees swayed their plumes in the wind。
And around were a number of temples； of hypogea； of Roman ruins； of
ruins of churches dating from the first centuries of Christianity。 The
ground was full of souvenirs of the great primitive civilisations。 For
the place； abandoned for ages and lulled in the folds of Islam under
the guardianship of its white mosque； was once one of the centres of
the life of the world。
And； moreover； in the adjoining desert； some three or four thousand
years ago； the ancient history of the world had been written by the
Pharaohs in immortal hieroglyphicswell…nigh everywhere； on the
polished sides of the strange blocks of blue and red granite that lie
scattered about the sands and look now like the forms of antediluvian
monsters。
*****
Yes； but it was necessary that all this should be co…ordinated；
focused as it were； and above all rendered accessible to the delicate
travellers of the Agencies。 And to…day we have the pleasure of
announcing that； from December to March； Assouan （for that is the name
of the fortunate locality） has a 〃season〃 as fashionable as those of
Ostend or Spa。
In approaching it； the huge hotels erected on all sideseven on the
islets of the old rivercharm the eye of the traveller； greeting him
with their welcoming signs； which can be seen a league away。 True；
they have been somewhat hastily constructed； of mud and plaster； but
they recall none the less those gra