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hurrying along that avenue where once defiled so many processions of
gods and goddesses。 And yet this； perhaps； is the only occasion on
which one of these bands of tourists does not seem to me altogether
ridiculous。 Amongst these groups of unknown people； there is none who
is not collected and thoughtful； or who does not at least pretend to
be so； and there is some saving quality of grace； even some grandeur
of humility； in the sentiment which has brought them to this town of
Amen； and in the homage of their silence。
We are so high on this portal that we might fancy ourselves upon a
tower； and the defaced stones of which it is built are immeasurably
large。 Instinctively each one sits with his face to the glowing sun；
and consequently to the outspread distances of the fields and the
desert。
Before us； under our feet； an avenue stretches away； prolonging
towards the fields the pomp of the dead cityan avenue bordered by
monstrous rams； larger than buffaloes； all crouched on their pedestals
in two parallel rows in the traditional hieratic pose。 The avenue
terminates beyond at a kind of wharf or landing…stage which formerly
gave on to the Nile。 It was there that the God Amen； carried and
followed by long trains of priests； came every year to take his golden
barge for a solemn procession。 But it leads to…day only to the
cornfields； for； in the course of successive centuries； the river has
receded little by little and now winds its course a thousand yards
away in the direction of Libya。
We can see； beyond； the old sacred Nile between the clusters of palm…
trees on its banks； meandering there like a rosy pathway； which
remains； nevertheless； in this hour of universal incandescence；
astonishingly pale； and gleams occasionally with a bluish light。 And
on the farther bank； from one end to the other of the western horizon；
stretches the chain of the Libyan mountains behind which the sun is
about to plunge； a chain of red sandstone； parched since the beginning
of the worldwithout a rival in the preservation to perpetuity of
dead bodieswhich the Thebans perforated to its extreme depths to
fill it with sarcophagi。
We watch the sun descend。 But we turn also to see； behind us； the
ruins in this the traditional moment of their apotheosis。 Thebes； the
immense town…mummy； seems all at once to be ablazeas if its old
stones were able still to burn； all its blocks； fallen or upright；
appear to have been suddenly made ruddy by the glow of fire。
On this side； too； the view embraces great peaceful distances。 Past
the last pylons； and beyond the crumbling ramparts the country； down
there behind the town； presents the same appearance as that we were
facing a moment before。 The same cornfields； the same woods of date…
trees； that make a girdle of green palms around the ruins。 And； right
in the background； a chain of mountains is lit up and glows with a
vivid coral colour。 It is the chain of the Arabian desert； lying
parallel to that of Libya； along the whole length of the Nile Valley
which is thus guarded on right and left by stones and sand stretched
out in profound solitudes。
In all the surrounding country which we command from this spot there
is no indication of the present day； only here and there； amongst the
palm…trees； the villages of the field labourers； whose houses of dried
earth can scarcely have changed since the days of the Pharaohs。 Our
contemporary desecrators have up till now respected the infinite
desuetude of the place； and； for the tourists who begin to haunt it；
no one yet has dared to build a hotel。
Slowly the sun descends； and behind us the granites of the town…mummy
seem to burn more and more。 It is true that a slight shadow of a
warmer tint； an amaranth violet； begins to encroach upon the lower
parts； spreading along the avenues and over the open spaces。 But
everything that rises into the skythe friezes of the temples； the
capitals of the columns； the sharp points of the obelisksare still
red as glowing embers。 These all become imbued with light and continue
to glow and shed a rosy illumination until the end of the twilight。
It is a glorious hour； even for the old dust of Egypt； which fills the
air eternally； without detracting at all from its wonderful clearness。
It savours of spices； of the Bedouin； of the bitumen of the
sarcophagus。 And here now it is playing the role of those powders of
different shades of gold which the Japanese use for the backgrounds of
their lacquered landscapes。 It reveals itself everywhere； close to and
on the horizon； modifying at its pleasure the colour of things； and
giving them a kind of metallic lustre。 The phantasy of its changes is
unimaginable。 Even in the distances of the countryside； it is busy
indicating by little trailing clouds of gold the smallest pathways
traversed by the herds。
And now the disc of the God of Thebes has disappeared behind the
Libyan mountains； after changing its light from red to yellow and from
yellow to green。
And thereupon the tourists； judging that the display is over for the
night； commence to descend and make ready for departure。 Some in
carriages； others on donkeys； they go to recruit themselves with the
electricity and elegance of Luxor； the neighbouring town （wines and
spirits are paid for as extras； and we dress for dinner）。 And the dust
condescends to mark their exodus also by a last cloud of gold beneath
the palm…trees of the road。
An immediate solemnity succeeds to their departure。 Above the mud
houses of the fellah villages rise slender columns of smoke； which are
of a periwinkle…blue in the midst of the still yellow atmosphere。 They
tell of the humble life of these little homesteads； subsisting here；
where in the backward of the ages were so many palaces and splendours。
And the first bayings of the watchdogs announce already the vague
uneasiness of the evenings around the ruins。 There is no one now
within the mummy…town； which seems all at once to have grown larger in
the silence。 Very quickly the violet shadow covers it； all save the
extreme points of its obelisks； which keep still a little of their
rose…colour。 The feeling comes over you that a sovereign mystery has
taken possession of the town； as if some vague phantom things had just
passed into it。
CHAPTER XV
THEBES BY NIGHT
The feeling； almost； that you have grown suddenly smaller by entering
there； that you are dwarfed to less than human sizeto such an extent
do the proportions of these ruins seem to crush youand the illusion；
also； that the light； instead of being extinguished with the evening；
has only changed its colour； and become blue： that is what one
experiences on a clear Egyptian night； in walking between the
colonnades of the great temple at Thebes。
The place is； moreover； so singular and so terrible that its mere name
would at once cast a spell upon the spirit； even if one were ignorant
of the place