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While I listened； there rose a cry so hideous in its character and so belligerent in its tone； that I trembled with fear upon my palm…leaf mattress。 It resembled the bellowing of an infuriated bull； but was louder and more penetrating in its effect。 The proximity of this animal was indeed unpleasant； for he had planted himself on the river's edge； near the little bluff upon which my camp had been constructed。 The loud roar was answered by a similar bellow from the other side of the river； and for a long time did these two male alligators keep up their challenging cries； without coming to combat。 Numerous wood…mice attacked my provision…basket； and even worked their way through the leaves of my palmetto mattress。
Thus with an endless variety of annoyances the night wore wearily away； but the light of the rising sun did not penetrate the thick fog which enveloped the river until after eight o'clock； when I embarked for a second day's journey upon the stream； which had now attained a width of five or six rods。 Rafts of logs blocked the river as I approached the settlement of Trader's Hill； and upon a most insecure footing the canoe was dragged over a quarter of a mile of logs； and put into the water on the lower side of the 〃jam。〃 Crossing several of these log 〃jams；〃 which covered the entire width of the St。 Mary's； I became weary of the task； and； after the last was reached； determined to go into camp until the next day； when suddenly the voices of men in the woods were heard。
Soon a gentleman； with two raftsmen； appeared and kindly greeted me。 They had been notified of my approach at Trader's Hill by a courier sent from Dutton across the woods； and these men； whose knowledge of wood…craft is wonderful； had timed my movements so correctly that they had arrived just in time to meet me at this point。 The two raftsmen rubbed the canoe all over with their hands； and expressed delight at its beautiful finish in their own peculiar vernacular。
〃She's the dog…gonedest thing I ever seed； and jist as putty as a new coffin！〃 exclaimed one。
〃Indeed； she's the handsomest trick I ever did blink on；〃 said the second。
The two stalwart lumbermen lifted the boat as though she were but a feather； and carried her； jumping from log to log； the whole length of the raft。 They then put her gently in the water； and added to their farewell the cheering intelligence that 〃there's no more jams nor rafts 'twixt here and the sea； and you can go clar on to New York if you like。〃
Trader's Hill； on a very high bluff on the left bank； was soon passed； when the current seemed suddenly to cease； and I felt the first tidal effect of the sea； though many miles from the coast。 The tide was flooding。 I now laid aside the paddle； and putting the light steel outriggers in their sockets； rapidly rowed down the now broad river until the shadows of night fell upon forest and stream； when the comfortable residence of Mr。 Lewis Davis； with his steam saw…mill； came into sight upon Orange Bluff； on the Florida side of the river。 Here a kind welcome greeted me from host and hostess； who had dwelt twenty years in this romantic but secluded spot。 There were orange…trees forty years old on this property； and all in fine bearing order。 There was also a fine sulphur spring near the house。
Mr。 Davis stated that； during a residence of twenty years in this charming locality； he had experienced but one attack of chills。 He considered the St。 Mary's River； on account of the purity of its waters； one of the healthiest of southern streams。 The descent of this beautiful river now became a holiday pastime。 Though there were but few signs of the existence of man； the scenery was of a cheering character。 A brick…kiln； a few saw…mills； and an abandoned rice…plantation were passed； while the low saltmarshes； extending into the river from the forest…covered upland； gave evidence of the proximity to the sea。 Large alligators were frequently seen sunning themselves upon the edges of the banks。
At dusk the town of St。 Mary's； in its wealth of foliage； opened to my view from across the lowlands； and soon after the paper canoe was carefully stored in a building belonging to one of its hospitable citizens； while local authority asserted that I had traversed one hundred and seventy…five miles of the river。
One evening； while enjoying the hospitality of Mr。 Silas Fordam； at his beautiful winter home； 〃Orange Hall；〃 situated in the heart of St。 Mary's； a note； signed by the Hon。 J。 M。 Arnow； mayor of the city； was handed me。 Mr。 Arnow； in the name of the city government； invited my presence at the Spencer House。 Upon arriving at the hotel； a surprise awaited me。 The citizens of the place had gathered to welcome the paper canoe and its owner； and to express the kindly feelings they； as southern citizens； held towards their northern friends。 The hotel was decorated with flags and floral emblems； one of which expressed； in its ingeniously constructed words； wrought in flowers； 〃One hundred thousand Welcomes。〃
The mayor and his friends received me upon the veranda of the hotel with kind words of welcome。 Bright lights glimmered at this moment through the long avenue of trees； and music arose upon the night air。 It was a torchlight procession coming from the river； bearing upon a framework structure； from which hung Chinese lanterns and wreaths of laurel； the little paper canoe。 The Base…ball Club of the city； dressed in their handsome uniform； carried the 〃Maria Theresa；〃 while the sailors from the lumber fleet in the river； with the flags of several nationalities； brought up the rear。
When the procession arrived in front of the hotel； three hearty cheers were given by the people； and the mayor read the city's address of welcome to me； to which I made reply； not only in behalf of myself； but of all those of my countrymen who desired the establishment of a pure and good government in every portion of our dear land。
Mayor Arnow presented me with an engrossed copy of his speech of welcome； in which he invited all industrious northerners to come to his native city； promising that city ordinances should be passed to encourage the erection of manufactories； &c。； by northern capital and northern labor。 After the address； the wife of the mayor presented me with two memorial banners； in the name of the ladies of the city。 These were made for the occasion； and being the handiwork of the ladies themselves； were highly appreciated by the recipient。 When these graceful tributes had been received； each lady and child present deposited a bouquet of flowers； grown in the gardens of St。 Mary's； in my little craft； till it contained about four hundred of these refined expressions of the good…will of these kind people。 Not only did the native population of the town vie with each other to accord the lonely voyager a true southern welcome； but Mr。 A。 Curtis； an English gentleman； who； becoming fascinated with the fine climate of this part of Georgia； had settled here； did all he could to show his appreciation of canoe…travelling； and superintended the marine display and flag corps of the procession。
I left St。 Mary's with a strange longing to retur