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The next day； February 18； I left Seabrook and followed Skull Creek to Mackay's Creek； and； passing the mouth of May River； entered Calibogue Sound； where a sudden tempest arose and drove me into a creek which flowed out of the marshes of Bull Island。 A few negro huts were discovered on a low mound of earth。 The blacks told me their hammock was called Bird Island。
The tempest lasted all day； and as no shelter could be found on the creek； a darky hauled my canoe on a cart a couple of miles to Bull Creek； which enters into Cooper River； one of the watercourses I was to enter from Calibogue Sound。 Upon reaching the wooded shores of Bull Creek； my carter introduced me to the head man of the settlement； a weazened…looking little old creature called Cuffy； who； though respectful in his demeanor to 〃de Yankee…mans；〃 was cross and overbearing to the few families occupying the shanties in the magnificent grove of live…oaks which shaded them。
Cuffy's cook…house； or kitchen； which was a log structure measuring nine by ten feet； with posts only three feet high； was the only building which could be emptied of its contents for my accommodation。 Our contract or lease was a verbal one； Cuffy's terms being 〃whateber de white man likes to gib an ole nigger。〃 Cuffy cut a big switch； and sent in his 〃darter；〃 a girl of about fourteen years； to clean out the shanty。 When she did not move fast enough to suit the old man's wishes； he switched her over the shoulders till it excited my pity； but the girl seemed to take the beating as an every…day amusement； for it made no impression on her hard skull and thick skin。
After commencing to 〃keep house；〃 the old women came to sell me eggs and beg for 〃bacca。〃 They requested me never to throw away my coffee…grounds； as it made coffee 〃good 'nuf for black folks。〃 I distributed some of my stores among them； and； after cutting rushes and boughs for my bed； turned in for the night。
These negroes had been raising Sea…Island cotton； but the price having declined to five cents a pound； they could not get twenty…five cents a day for their labor by cultivating it。
The fierce wind subsided before dawn； but a heavy fog covered the marshes and the creek。 Cuffy's 〃settlement〃 turned out before sunrise to see me off； and the canoe soon reached the broad Cooper River； which I ascended in the misty darkness by following close to the left bank。 Four miles up the Cooper River from Calibogue Sound there is a passage through the marshes from the Cooper to New River； which is called Ram's Horn Creek。 On the right of its entrance a well…wooded hammock rises from the marsh； and is called Page Island。 About midway between the two rivers and along this crooked thoroughfare is another piece of upland。 called Pine Island； inhabited by the families of two boat…builders。
While navigating Cooper River； as the heavy mists rolled in clouds over the quiet waters； a sail…boat； rowed by negroes； emerged from the gloom and as suddenly disappeared。 I shouted after them： 〃Please tell me the name of the next creek。〃 A hoarse voice came back to me from the cloud： 〃Pull and be d…d。〃 Then all was； still as night again。 To solve this seemingly uncourteous reply； so unusual in the south I consulted the manuscript charts which the Charleston pilots had kindly drawn for my use； and found that the negroes had spoken geographically as well as truthfully； for Pine Island Creek is known to the watermen as 〃Pull and be d…d Creek；〃 on account of its tortuous character； and chiefly because； as the tides head in it； if a boat enters it from one river with a favorable tide； it has a strong head current on the other side of the middle ground to oppose it。 Thus pulling at the oars at some parts of the creek becomes hard work for the boatmen； hence this name； which； though profane； may be considered geographical。
After leaving the Cooper River； the watercourses to Savannah were discolored by red or yellow mud。 From Pine Island I descended New River two miles and a half to Wall's Cut； which is only a quarter of a mile in length； and through which I entered Wright's River； following it a couple of miles to the broad； yellow； turbulent current of the Savannah。
My thoughts now naturally turned to the early days of steamboat enterprise； when this river； as well as the Hudson； was conspicuous； for though the steamer Savannah was not the first steam…propelled vessel which cut the waves of the Atlantic； she was the first steamer that ever crossed it。 Let us examine historical data。 Colonel John Stevens； of New York； built the steamboat Phoenix about the year 1808； and was prevented from using it upon the Hudson River by the Fulton and Livingston monopoly charter。
The Phoenix made an ocean voyage to the Delaware River。 The first English venture was that of the steamer Caledonia； which made a passage to Holland in 1817。 The London Times of May 11； 1819； printed in its issue of that date the following item：
〃GREAT EXPERIMENT。 A new vessel of three hundred tons has been built at New York for the express purpose of carrying passengers across the Atlantic。 She is to come to Liverpool direct。〃
This ship…rigged steamer was the 〃Savannah；〃 and the bold projector of this experiment of sending a steamboat across the Atlantic was Daniel Dodd。 The Savannah was built in New York； by Francis Ficket； for Mr。 Dodd。 Stephen Vail； of Morristown； New Jersey； built her engines； and on the 22d of August； 1818； she was launched； gliding gracefully into the element which was to bear her to foreign lands； there to be crowned with the laurels of success。 On May 25th this purely American…built vessel left Savannah； and glided out from this waste of marshes； under the command of Captain Moses Rogers； with Stephen Rogers as navigator。 The port of New London； Conn。； had furnished these able seamen。
The steamer reached Liverpool June 20th； the passage having occupied twenty…six days； upon eighteen of which she had used her paddles。 A son of Mr。 Dodd once told me of the sensation produced by the arrival of a smoking vessel on the coast of Ireland； and how Lieutenant John Bowie； of the king's cutter Kite； sent a boat…load of sailors to board the Savannah to assist her crew to extinguish the fires of what his Majesty's officers supposed to be a burning ship。
The Savannah； after visiting Liverpool； continued her voyage on July 23d； and reached St。 Petersburg in safety。 Leaving the latter port on October 10th； this adventurous craft completed the round voyage upon her arrival at Savannah； November 30th。
I pulled up the Savannah until within five miles of the city； and then left the river on its south side； where old rice…plantations are first met； and entered St。 Augustine Creek； which is the steamboat thoroughfare of the inland route to Florida。 Just outside the city of Savannah； near its beautiful cemetery； where tall trees with their graceful drapery of Spanish moss screen from wind and sun the quiet resting…places of the dead； my canoe was landed； and stored in a building of the German Greenwich Shooting Park； where Mr。 John Hellwig； in a most hospitable manner； cared for it and its owner。
While awaiting the arrival of let