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nearer to the Bates Hill plantation than the main Bull Creek。 To urge the canoe up this narrow stream three miles and a half to the parent river Peedee； was a most trying ordeal。 At times the boat would not move a hundred feet in five minutes； and often； as my strength seemed failing me； I caught the friendly branches of trees； and held on to keep the canoe from being whirled down the current towards the Waccamaw。 After long and persistent efforts had exhausted my strength； I was about to seek for a resting…place in the swamp； when a view of the broad Peedee opened before me； and with vigorous strokes of the paddle the canoe slowly approached the mighty current。 A moment more and it was within its grasp； and went flying down the turbulent stream at the rate of ten miles an hour。
A loud halloo greeted me from the swamp； where a party of negro shingle…makers were at work。 They manned their boat； a long cypress dug…out； and followed me。 Their employer； who proved to be the gentleman whose abiding…place I was now rapidly approaching； sat in the stern。 We landed together before the old plantation house； which had been occupied a few years before by members of the wealthy and powerful rice…planting aristocracy of the Peedee； but was now the temporary home of a northern man； who was busily employed in guiding the labors of his four hundred freedmen in the swamps of North and South Carolina。
The paper canoe had now entered the regions of the rice…planter。 Along the low banks of the Peedee were diked marshes where； before the civil war； each estate produced from five thousand to forty thousand bushels of rice annually； and the lords of rice were more powerful than those of cotton； though cotton was king。 The rich lands here produced as high as fifty…five bushels of rice to the acre； under forced slave labor； now the free blacks cannot wrest from nature more than twenty…five or thirty bushels。
Fine old mansions lined the river's banks； but the families had been so reduced by the ravages of war； that I saw refined ladies； who had been educated in the schools of Edinburgh； Scotland； overseeing the negroes as they worked in the yards of the rice…mills。 The undaunted spirit of these southern ladies； as they worked in their homes now so desolate； roused my admiration。
A light； graceful figure； enveloped in an old shawl； and mounted on an old horse； flitted about one plantation like a restless spirit。
〃That lady's father；〃 said a gentleman to me； 〃owned three plantations； worth three millions of dollars； before the war。 There is a rice…mill on one of the plantations which cost thirty thousand dollars。 She now fights against misfortune； and will not give up。 The Confederate war would not have lasted six months if it had not been for our women。 They drove thousands of us young men into the fight； and now； having lost all； they go bravely to work； even taking the places of their old servants in their grand old homes。 It's hard for them； though； I assure you。〃
On Tuesday； January 25th； I paddled down the Peedee； stopping at the plantations of Dr。 Weston and Colonel Benjamin Allston。 The latter gentleman was a son of one of the governors of South Carolina。 He kindly gave me a letter of introduction to Commodore Richard Lowndes； who lived near the coast。 From the Peedee I passed through a cut in the marshes into the broad Waccamaw； and descended it to Winyah Bay。
Georgetown is located between the mouths of the Peedee and Sampit rivers。 Cautiously approaching the city； I landed at Mr。 David Risley's steam saw…mills； and that gentleman kindly secreted my boat in a back counting…room； while I went up town to visit the post…office。 By some； to me； unaccountable means； the people had heard of the arrival of the paper boat； and three elaborately dressed negro women accosted me with； 〃Please show wees tree ladies de little paper boat。〃
Before I had reached my destination； the post…office； a body of men met me； on their way to the steam…mill。 The crowd forced me back to the canoe； and asked so many questions that I was sorely taxed to find answers for these gentlemen。 There were three editors in the crowd： two were white men； one a negro。 The young men； who claimed the position of representatives of the spirit of the place and of the times； published 〃The Comet；〃 while the negro； as though influenced by a spirit of sarcasm； conducted 〃The Planet。〃 The third newspaper represented at the canoe reception was the 〃 Georgetown Times；〃 which courteously noticed the little boat that had come so far。 〃The Planet〃 prudently kept in the dark； and said nothing； but 〃The Comet；〃 representing the culture of the young men of the city； published the following notice of my arrival：
〃Tom Collins has at last arrived in his wonderful paper boat。 He has it hitched to Mr。 Risley's new saw…mill； where every one can have a view。 He intends shooting off his six…pounder before weighing anchor in the morning。 Hurrah for Collins。〃
I left Mr。 Risley's comfortable home before noon the next day； and followed the shores of Winyah Bay towards the sea。 Near Battery White； on the right shore； in the pine forests； was the birth…place of Marion； the brave patriot of the American revolution； whose bugle's call summoned the youth of those days to arms。
When near the inlet； the rice…plantation marshes skirted the shore for some distance。 Out of these wet lands flowed a little stream； called Mosquito Creek； which once connected the North Santee River with Winyah Bay； and served as a boundary to South Island。 The creek was very crooked； and the ebb…tide strong。 When more than halfway to Santee River I was forced to leave the stream； as it had become closed by tidal deposits and rank vegetation。
The ditches of rice plantations emptied their drainage of the lowlands into Mosquito Creek。 Following a wide ditch to the right； through fields of rich alluvial soil； which had been wrested by severe toil from nature； the boat soon reached the rice…mill of Commodore Richard Lowndes。 A little further on； and situated in a noble grove of live…oaks； which were draped in the weird festoons of Spanish moss； on the upland arose the stately home of the planter； who still kept his plantation in cultivation； though on a scale of less magnitude than formerly。 It was； indeed； a pleasant evening that I passed in the company of the refined members of the old commodore's household； and with a pang of regret the next day I paddled along the main canal of the lowlands； casting backward glances at the old house； with its grand old trees。 The canal ended at North Santee Bay。
While I was preparing to ascend the river a tempest arose； which kept me a weary prisoner among the reeds of the rice marsh。 The hollow reeds made poor fuel for cooking； and when the dark； stormy night shut down upon me； the damp soil grew damper as the tide arose； until it threatened to overflow the land。 For hours I lay in my narrow canoe waiting for the tidal flood to do its worst； but it receded； and left me without any means of building a fire； as the reeds were wet by the storm。 The next afternoon； being tired of this sort of prison…life； and cramped for lack of exerci