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illery on my route。 〃It is twenty miles by the river to my friend Hall's；〃 he said； 〃but in a straight line the place is just four miles from here。〃 Such is the character of the Waccamaw； this most crooked of rivers。
I had never been on so rapid and continuous a current。 As it whirled me along the narrow watercourse I was compelled to abandon my oars and use the paddle in order to have my face to the bow； as the abrupt turns of the stream seemed to wall me in on every side。 Down the tortuous； black； rolling current went the paper canoe； with a giant forest covering the great swamp and screening me from the light of day。 The swamps were submerged； and as the water poured out of the thickets into the river it would shoot across the land from one bend to another； presenting in places the mystifying spectacle of water running up stream； but not up an inclined plain。 Festoons of gray Spanish moss hung from the weird limbs of monster trees； giving a funeral aspect to the gloomy forest； while the owls hooted as though it were night。 The creamy； wax…like berries of the mistletoe gave a Druidical aspect to the woods； for this parasite grew upon the branches of many trees。
One spot only of firm land rose from the water in sixteen miles of paddling from the lake； and passing it； I went flying on with the turbulent stream four miles further； to where rafts of logs blocked the river； and the sandy banks； covered with the upland forest of pines； encroached upon the lowlands。 This was Old Dock； with its turpentine distillery smoking and sending out resinous vapors。
Young Mr。 Hall read my letter and invited me to his temporary home； which； though roughly built of unplaned boards； possessed two comfortable rooms； and a large fireplace； in which light…wood； the terebinthine heart of the pine…tree； was cheerfully blazing。
I had made the twenty miles in three hours； but the credit of this quick time must be given to the rapid current。 My host did not seem well pleased with the solitude imposed upon him。 His employers had sent him from Wilmington； to hold and protect 〃their turpentine farm；〃 which was a wilderness of trees covering four thousand acres； and was valued； with its distillery； at five thousand dollars。 An old negro； who attended the still and cooked the meals； was his only companion。
We had finished our frugal repast； when a man； shouting in the darkness； approached the house on horseback。 This individual； though very tipsy； represented Law and Order in that district； as I was informed when 〃Jim Gore；〃 a justice of the peace； saluted me in a boisterous manner。 Seating himself by the fire； he earnestly inquired for the bottle。 His stomach； he said； was as dry as a lime…kiln； and； though water answers to slake lime； he demanded something stronger to slake the fire that burned within him。 He was very suspicious of me when Hall told him of my canoe journey。 After eying me from head to toe in as steady a manner as he was capable of； he broke forth with： 〃Now； stranger； this won't do。 What are ye a…travel'ing in this sort of way for； in a paper dug…out？〃
I pleaded a strong desire to study geography； but the wise fellow replied：
〃Geography！ geography！ Why； the fellers who rite geography never travel； they stay at home and spin their yarns 'bout things they never sees。〃 Then； glancing at his poor butternut coat and pantaloons； he felt my blue woollen suit； and continued； in a slow； husky voice： 〃Stranger； them clothes cost something； they be store…clothes。 That paper dug…out cost money； I tell ye； and it costs something to travel the hull length of the land。 No； stranger； if ye be not on a bet； then somebody's a…paying ye well for it。〃
For an hour I entertained this roughest of law dignitaries with an account of my long row； its trials and its pleasures。 He became interested in the story； and finally related to me his own aspirations； and the difficulties attending his efforts to make the piny…woods people respect the laws and good government。 He then described the river route through the swamps to the sea； and； putting his arm around me in the most affectionate manner； he mournfully said：
〃O stranger； my heart is with ye； but O； how ye will have to take it when ye go past those awful wretches to…morrow； how they will give it to ye！ They most knocked me off my raft； last time I went to Georgetown。 Beware of them； I warn ye in time。 Dern the hussies。〃
Squire Jim so emphasized the danger that I became somewhat alarmed； for； more than anything else； I dreaded an outbreak with rough women。 And then； too； my new acquaintance informed me that there were four or five of these wretches； of the worst kind； located several miles down the stream。 As I was about to inquire into the habits of these ugly old crones； Mr。 Hall； wishing to give Squire James a hint； remarked that Mr。 B_____ might at any time retire to the next room； where half the bed was at his disposal。
〃Half the bed！〃 roared the squire； 〃here are three of us； and where's my half？〃
〃Why； squire；〃 hesitatingly responded my host； Mr。 B_____ is my guest； and having but one bed； he must have half of it no less。〃
〃Then what's to become of me？〃 thundered his Majesty of the law。
Having been informed that a shake…down would have been ready had he given notice of his visit； and that at some future time； when not so crowded； he could be entertained like a gentleman； he drew himself up； wrapped in the mantle of dignity； and replied：
〃None of that soft talk； my friend。 This man is a traveller； let him take travellers' luck three in a bed to…night。 I'm bound to sleep with him to…night。 Hall； where's the bottle？〃
I now retired to the back room； and； without undressing； planted myself on the side of the bed next the wall。 Sleep was； however； an unattainable luxury； with the squire's voice in the next room； as he told how the country was going to the dogs； because 〃niggers and white folks wouldn't respect the laws。 It took half a man's time to larn it to 'em； and much thanks he ever got by setting everybody to rights。〃 He wound up by lecturing Hall for being so temperate； his diligent search in all directions for bottles or jugs being rewarded by finding them filled with unsatisfactory emptiness。
He then tumbled into the centre of the bed； crowding me close against the wall。 Poor Hall； having the outside left to him； spent the night in exercising his brain and muscles in vain attempts to keep in his bed； for when his Majesty of the law put his arms akimbo； the traveller went to the wall； and the host to the floor。 Thus passed my first night in the great swamps of the Waccamaw River。
The negro cook gave us an early breakfast of bacon； sweet potatoes； and corn bread。 The squire again looked round for the bottle； and again found nothing but emptiness。 He helped me to carry my canoe along the unsteady footing of the dark swamp to the lower side of the raft of logs； and warmly pressed my hand as he whispered： 〃My dear B____； I shall think of you until you get past those dreadful 'wretches。' Keep an eye on your little boat； or they'll devil you。〃
Propelled by my double paddle； the canoe seemed to fly through