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I rowed out of the southern end of Roanoke and entered upon the wide area of Pamplico Sound。 To avoid shoals； it being calm； I kept about three miles from the beach in three feet of water； until beyond Duck Island； when the trees on Roanoke Island slowly sank below the horizon； then gradually drawing in to the beach； the two clumps of trees of north and south Chicamicomio came into view。 A life…saving station had recently been erected north of the first grove； and there is another fourteen miles further south。 The two Chicamicomio settlements of scattered houses are each nearly a mile in length； and are separated by a high； bald sand…beach of about the same length； which was once heavily wooded； but the wind has blown the sand into the forest and destroyed it。 A wind…mill in each village raised its weird arms to the breeze。
Three miles further down is Kitty Midget's Hammock； where a few red cedars and some remains of live…oaks tell of the extensive forest that once covered the beach。 Here Captain Abraham Hooper lives； and occupies himself in fishing with nets in the ocean for blue…fish； which are salted down and sent to the inland towns for a market。 I had drawn my boat into the sedge to secure a night's shelter； when the old captain on his rounds captured me。 The change from a bed in the damp sedge to the inside seat of the largest fireplace I had ever beheld； was indeed a pleasant one。 Its inviting front covered almost one side of the room。 While the fire flashed up the wide chimney； I sat inside the fireplace with the three children of my host； and enjoyed the genial glow which arose from the fragments of the wreck of a vessel which had pounded herself to death upon the strand near Kitty Midget's Hammock。 How curiously those white…haired children watched the man who had come so far in a paper boat！ 〃Why did not the paper boat soak to pieces？〃 they asked。 Each explanation seemed but to puzzle them the more； and I found myself in much the same condition of mind when trying to make some discoveries concerning Kitty Midget。 She must； however； have lived somewhere on Clark's Beach long before the present proprietor was born。 We spent the next day fishing with nets in the surf for blue…fish； it being about the last day of their stay in that vicinity。 They go south as far as Cape Hatteras； and then disappear in deep water； while the great flocks of gulls； that accompany them to gather the remnants of fish they scatter in their savage meals； rise in the air and fly rapidly away in search of other dainties。
On Thursday I set out for Cape Hatteras。 The old sailor's song； that …
〃Hatteras has a blow in store For those who pass her howling door；〃
has far more truth than poetry in it。 Before proceeding far the wind blew a tempest； when a young fisherman in his sailboat bore down upon me； and begged me to come on board。 We attempted to tow the canoe astern； but she filled with water； which obliged us to take her on board。 As we flew along before the wind； dashing over the shoals with mad…cap temerity； I discovered that my new acquaintance； Burnett； was a most daring as well as reckless sailor。 He told me how he had capsized his father's schooner by carrying sail too long。 〃This 'ere slow way of doing things〃 he detested。 His recital was characteristic of the man。
〃You see； sir； we was bound for Newbern up the Neuse River； and as we were well into the sound with all sail set； and travelling along lively； daddy says； 'Lorenzo； I reckon a little yaupon wouldn't hurt me； so I'll go below and start a firs under the kittle。' Do as you likes； daddy；' sez I。 So down below he goes； and I takes command of the schooner。 A big black squall soon come over Cape Hatteras from the Gulf Stream； and it did look like a screecher。 Now； I thought； old woman； I'll make your sides ache； so I pinted her at it； and afore I could luff her up in the wind； the squall kreened her on to her beam…ends。 You'd a laughed to have split yourself； mister； if you could have seen daddy a…crawling out of the companion…way while the water was a…running down stairs like a crick。 Says he； ruther hurriedly； 'Sonny； what's up？' It isn't what's up； daddy； but what's down；' sez I； it sort o' looks as if we had capsized。' Sure 'nuff；' answered dad； as the ballast shifted and the schooner rolled over keel uppermost。 We floundered about like porpoises； but managed to get astride her backbone； when dad looked kind of scornfully at me； and burst out with； 'Sonny； do you call yourself a keerful sailor？' 'Keerful enough； dad；' sez I； 'for a smart one。 It's more credit to a man to drive his vessel like a sailor； than to be crawling and bobbing along like a diamond…backed terrapin。' Now； stranger； if you'll believe me； that keerful old father of mine would never let me take the helum again； so I sticks to my aunt at the cape。〃
I found that the boat in which we were sailing was a dug…out； made from two immense cypress logs。 Larger boats than this are made of three logs； and smaller ones are dug out of one。
Burnett told me that frame boats were so easily pounded to pieces on the shoals； that dug…outs were preferred being very durable。 We soon passed the hamlet of North Kinnakeet； then Scarsborough with its low houses； then South Kinnakeet with its two wind…mills； and after these arose a sterile； bald beach with Hatteras light…tower piercing the sky； and west of it Hatteras woods and marshes。 We approached the low shore and ascended a little creek； where we left our boats； and repaired to the cottage of Burnett's aunt。
After the barren shores I had passed； this little house； imbedded in living green； was like a bright star in a dark night。 It was hidden away in a heavy thicket of live…oaks and cedars； and surrounded by yaupons； the bright red berries of which glistened against the light green leaves。 An old woman stood in the doorway with a kindly greeting for her 〃wild boy；〃 rejoicing the while that he had 〃got back to his old aunty once more。〃
〃Yes； aunty；〃 said my friend Lorenzo； 〃I am back again like a bad penny； but not empty…handed； for as soon as our season's catch of blue…fish is sold； old aunty will have sixty or seventy dollars。〃
〃He has a good heart； if he is so head…strong；〃 whispered the motherly woman； as she wiped a tear from her eyes； and gazed with pride upon the manly…looking young fellow； and invited us in to tea YAUPON。
CHAPTER X。 FROM CAPE HATTERAS TO CAPE FEAR； NORTH CAROLINA。
CAPE HATTERAS LIGHT。 HABITS OF BIRDS。 STORM AT HATTERAS INLET MILES OF WRECKS。 THE YACHT JULIA SEARCHING FOR THE PAPER CANOE。 CHASED BY PORPOISES。 MARSH TACKIES。 OCRACOKE INLET。 A GRAVE…YARD BEING SWALLOWED UP BY THE SEA。 CORE SOUND。 THREE WEDDINGS AT HUNTING QUARTERS。 MOREHEAD CITY。 NEWBERN。 SWANSBORO。 A PEA…NUT PLANTATION。 THE ROUTE TO CAPE FEAR。
Cape Hatteras is the apex of a triangle。 It is the easternmost part of the state of North Carolina； and it extends farther into the ocean than any Atlantic cape of the United States。 It presents a low； broad； sandy point to the sea； and for several miles beyond it； in the ocean； are the dangerous Diamond Shoals； th