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voyage of the paper canoe-第26章

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bottomed bay。

The tall tower of Fenwick's Island Light; located on the boundary line of Delaware and Maryland; was now my landmark。  It rises out of the low land that forms a barrier against which the sea breaks。  The people on the coast pronounce Fenwick 〃Phoenix。〃 Phoenix Island; they say; was once a part of the mainland; but a woman; wishing to keep her cattle from  straying; gave a man a shirt for digging a narrow ditch between Little and Great Assawaman bays。  The tide ebbed and flowed so strongly through this new channel…way that it was worn to more than a hundred feet in width; and has at high tide a depth in places of from ten to  fifteen feet of water。  The opening of this new thoroughfare so diminished the flow of water through the Little Assawaman Inlet to the sea; that it became closed。  The water was almost fresh here; as the nearest inlet which admits salt water at high tide is at Chincoteague Island; some fifty miles distant。

Passing to the west of the light…house through this passage; I thought of what a woman could do; and almost expected to hear from the rippling waters the 〃Song of the Shirt;〃 which would have been in this case a much more cheerful one than Hood's。  I now entered Great  Assawaman Bay; the waters of which lay like a  mirror before me; and nearly five miles away; to the southwestern end; the tall forests of the Isle of Wight loomed up against the setting sun。 Ducks rose in flocks from the quiet waters as my canoe glided into their close vicinity。  If I could have taken less cargo; I should have carried a light gun; but this being impossible; a pocket  revolver was my only fire…arm: so the ducks and other wild…fowl along my route had reason to hold the paper canoe in grateful remembrance。

Upon reaching the shores of the Isle of Wight I entered the mouth of St。 Martin's River; which is; at its confluence with Isle of Wight Bay; more than two miles wide。  I did not then possess the fine Coast Chart No。28; or the General Chart of the Coast; No。4; with the topography of the land clearly delineated; and showing every man's farm…buildings; fields; landings; &c。; so plainly located as to make it easy for even a novice to navigate these bays。 Now; being chartless so far as these waters were concerned; I peered about in the deepening twilight for my friend's plantation buildings; which I knew were not far off; but the gloomy forests of pine upon the  upland opened not the desired vista I so longed to find。

Crossing the wide river; I came upon a long point of salt…marsh; which I hoped might be Keyser's Point; for I knew that to the west of this point I should find Turval's Creek。 While rowing along the marsh I came upon two  duck…shooters in their punt; but so enveloped were they in the mist that it was impossible to do more than define their forms。 I; however;  ventured a question as to my locality; when; to my utter astonishment; there came back to me in clear accents my own name。 Never before had it sounded so sweet to my ears。  It was the voice of my friend; who with a companion was occupied in removing from the water the flock of decoys which they had been  guarding since sunrise。  Joyful was the unexpected meeting。

We rowed around Keyser's Point; and up  Turval's Creek; a couple of miles to the plantation landing。 There; upon the old estate in the little family burial…ground; slept; 〃each in his narrow cell;〃 the children of four generations。  Our  conversation before the blazing wood…fire that night related to the ground travelled over during the day; a course of about thirty…five miles。  Mr。 Taylor's father mentioned that a friend; during one week in the previous September; had taken upon his hook; while fishing from the marshes of  Rehoboth Bay; five hundred rock…fish; some of which weighed twenty pounds。  The oysters in  Rehoboth and Indian River bays had died out; probably from the decrease in the amount of salt water now entering them。  A delightful week was spent with my friends at Winchester Plantation; when the falling of the mercury warned me to hurry southward。

On Wednesday; November 25; I descended the plantation creek and rowed out of St。  Martin's River into the Bay。 My course southward led me past 〃the Hommack;〃 an Indian mound of oyster…shells; which rises about seven feet above the marsh on the west side of the entrance to Sinepuxent bay; and where the mainland approaches to within eight hundred feet of the beach。  This point; which divides the Isle of Wight Bay from Sinepuxent; is the terminus of the Wicomico and Pocomoke Railroad; which has been extended from Berlin eastwardly seven miles。  A short ferry conveys the passengers across the water to a narrow island beach; which is considered by Bayard Taylor; the author; the finest beach he has ever visited。  This new watering…place is called Ocean City; and my friend; B。 Jones Taylor; was treasurer of the company which was engaged in making the much…desired improvements。  The shallow bays in the vicinity of Ocean City offer safe and  pleasant sailing…grounds。  The summer fishing  consists chiefly of white perch; striped bass; sheep's…head; weak…fish; and drum。  In the fall; bluefish are caught。  All of these; with oysters; soft crabs; and diamond…backed terrapin; offer  tempting dishes to the epicure。  This recently isolated shore is now within direct railroad  communication with Philadelphia and New York; and can be reached in nine hours from the former; and in twelve hours from the latter city。

From the Hommack to South Point is included the length of Sinepuxent Bay; according to Coast Survey authority。  From South Point to below the middle of Chincoteague Island the bay is put down as 〃Assateague;〃 though the oystermen do not call it by that name。  The celebrated oyster…beds of the people of Chincoteague  commence about twenty miles south of the  Hornmack。  There are two kinds of oysters shipped from Chincoteague Inlet to New York and other markets。  One is the long native plant the other; that transplanted from Chesapeake Bay:    this bivalve is rounded in form; and the most prized of the two。  The average width of Sinepuxent was only a mile。  When I turned westwardly around South Point; and entered Assateague Bay; the watery expanse widened; between the marshes on the west and the  sandy…beach island on the east; to over four miles。

The debouchure of Newport Creek is to the west of South Point。  The marshes here are very wide。  I ascended it in the afternoon to visit Dr。 F。 J。 Purnell; whose attempts to  introduce the pinnated grouse and California  partridges on his plantation had attracted the  attention of Mr。 Charles Hallock; editor of 〃Forest and Stream〃; and I had promised him; if  possible; to investigate the matter。  This South Point of Sinepuxent Neck is a place of historical  interest; it being now asserted that it is the  burial place of Edward Whalley; the regicide。

Early in 1875; Mr。 Robert P。 Robins found in a bundle of old family documents a paper containing interesting statements written by his great…great…grandfather; Thomas Robins; 3d; of South Point; Worcester County; Maryland; and dated July 8; 1769。  We gather from this reliable source that Edward Whalley left Connecticut and arrived
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