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voyage of the paper canoe-第21章

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ragement in my undertaking。  He shook his head and whispered to his wife: 〃A wild; wild  enterprise indeed。〃  Markus Hook derived its name from Markee; an Indian chief; who sold it to the civilized white man for four barrels of whiskey。

The next morning; in a dense fog; I followed the shores of the river; crossing the Pennsylvania and Delaware boundary line half a mile below the 〃Hook;〃 and entered Delaware; the little state of three counties。 Thirty…five miles below; the water becomes salt。 Reaching New Castle; which contained half its present number of inhabitants before Philadelphia was founded; I pulled across to the New Jersey side of the river and skirted the marshy shore past the little Pea Patch Island; upon which rises in sullen  dreariness Fort Delaware。 West of the Island is Delaware City; where the Chesapeake and  Delaware Canal; fourteen miles in length; has one of its termini; the other being on a river which empties into Chesapeake Bay。 Philadelphia and Baltimore steamboat lines utilize this canal in the passage of their boats from one city to the other。

After crossing Salem Cove; and passing its southern point; Elsinborough; five miles and a half below Fort Delaware; the inhospitable marshes became wide and desolate; warning me to secure a timely shelter for the night。 Nearly two miles below Point Elsinborough the high reeds were divided by a little creek; into which I ran my canoe; for upon the muddy bank could be seen a deserted; doorless fish…cabin; into which I moved my blankets and provisions; after cutting with my pocket…knife an ample supply of dry reeds for a bed。  Drift…wood; which a friendly tide had deposited around the shanty; furnished the material for my fire; which lighted up the dismal hovel most cheerfully。  And thus I kept house in a comfortable manner till morning; being well satisfied with the progress I had made that day in traversing the shores of three states。  The booming of the guns of wild…fowl shooters out upon the water roused me before dawn; and I had ample time before the sun arose to prepare breakfast from the remnant of canned ox…tail soup left over from last night's supper。

I was now in Delaware Bay; which was  assuming noble proportions。 From my camp I crossed to the west shore below Reedy Island; and; filling my water…bottles at a farm…house; kept upon that shore all day。  The wind arose; stirring up a rough sea as I approached Bombay Hook; where the bay is eight miles wide。 I tried to land upon the salt marshes; over the edges of which the long; low seas were breaking; but failed in  several attempts。  At last roller after roller;  following in quick succession; carried the little craft on their crests to the land; and packed her in a thicket of high reeds。

I quickly disembarked; believing it useless to attempt to go further that day。  About an eighth of a mile from the water; rising out of the salt grass and reeds; was a little mound; covered by trees and bushes; into which I conveyed my cargo by the back…load; and then easily drew the light canoe over the level marsh to the camp。 A bed of reeds was soon cut; into which the canoe was settled to prevent her from being strained by the occupant at night; for I was  determined to test the strength of the boat as  sleeping…quarters。  Canoes built for one person are generally too light for such occupancy when out of water。  The tall fringe of reeds which  encircled the boat formed an excellent substitute for chamber walls; giving me all the starry blue heavens for a ceiling; and most effectually  screening me from the strong wind which was blowing。 As it was early when the boat was driven ashore I had time to wander down to the brook; which was a mile distant; and replenish my scanty stock of water。

With the canvas deck…cover and rubber  blanket to keep off the heavy dews; the first night passed in such contracted lodgings was endurable; if not wholly convenient and agreeable。  The river mists were not dispelled the next day until nine o'clock; when I quitted my warm nest in the reeds and rowed down the bay; which seemed to grow broader as I advanced。  The bay was still bordered by extensive marshes; with here and there the habitation of man located upon some slight elevation of the surface。  Having rowed twenty…six miles; and being off the mouth of Murderkill Creek; a squall struck the canoe and forced it on to an oyster reef; upon the sharp shells of which she was rocked for several  minutes by the shallow breakers。  Fearing that the paper shell was badly cut; though it was still early in the afternoon; I ascended the creek of ominous name and associations to the landing of an inn kept by Jacob Lavey; where I expected to overhaul my injured craft。  To my surprise and great relief of mind there were found only a few superficial scratches upon the horn…like  shellacked surface of the paper shell。  To apply shellac with a heated iron to the wounds made by the oyster…shells was the work of a few  minutes; and my craft was as sound as ever。  The gunner's resort; 〃Bower's Beach Hotel;〃  furnished an excellent supper of oyster fritters;  panfish; and fried pork…scrapple。  Mine host; before a blazing wood fire; told me of the origin of the name of Murderkill Creek。

〃In the early settlement of the country;〃  began the innkeeper; 〃the white settlers did all they could to civilize the Indians; but the cussed savages wouldn't take to it kindly; but worried the life out of the new…comers。  At last a great landed proprietor; who held a big grant of land in these parts; thought he'd settle the troubles。 So he planted a brass cannon near the creek; and invited all the Indians of the neighborhood to come and hear the white man's Great Spirit talk。  The crafty man got the savages before the mouth of the cannon; and said; 'Now look into the hole there; for it is the mouth of the white man's Great Spirit; which will soon speak in tones of thunder。' The fellow then touched off the gun; and knocked half the devils into splinters。 The others were so skeerd at the big voice they had heard that they were afraid to move; and were soon all killed by one charge after another from the cannon: so the creek has been called Murderkill ever since。〃

I afterwards discovered that there were other places on the coast which had the same legend as the one told me by the innkeeper。 Holders of small farms lived in the vicinity of this tavern; but the post…office was at Frederica; five miles inland。 Embarking the next day; I felt sure of ending my cruise on Delaware Bay before night; as the quiet morning exhibited no signs of rising winds。 The little pilot town of Lewes; near Cape Delaware; and behind the Breakwater; is a port of refuge for storm…bound vessels。 From this village I expected to make a portage of six miles to Love Creek; a tributary of Rehoboth Sound。 The frosty nights were now exerting a sanitary influence over the malarial districts which I had entered; and the unacclimated  canoeist of northern birth could safely pursue his journey; and sleep at night in the swamps along the fresh…water streams if protected from the dews by a rubber or canvas covering。 My hopes of reaching the open sea that night were to be drowned; and in cold water to
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