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unexpectedly pleasant corner I have dropped into for an end of it；
which I could scarcely have foreseen from Wilson's shop； or the
Princes Street Gardens； or the Portobello Road。 Still； I would
like to hear what my ALTER EGO thought of it； and I would sometimes
like to have my old MAITRE ES ARTS express an opinion on what I do。
I put this very tamely； being on the whole a quiet elderly man； but
it is a strong passion with me； though intermittent。 Now； try to
follow my example and tell me something about yourself； Louisa； the
Bab； and your work； and kindly send me some specimens of what
you're about。 I have only seen one thing by you； about Notre Dame
in the WESTMINSTER or ST。 JAMES'S； since I left England； now I
suppose six years ago。
I have looked this trash over； and it is not at all the letter I
wanted to write … not truck about officials； ancestors； and the
like rancidness … but you have to let your pen go in its own
broken…down gait； like an old butcher's pony； stop when it pleases；
and go on again as it will。 … Ever； my dear Bob； your affectionate
cousin；
R。 L。 STEVENSON。
Letter： TO HENRY JAMES
VAILIMA； JULY 7TH； 1894。
DEAR HENRY JAMES； … I am going to try and dictate to you a letter
or a note； and begin the same without any spark of hope； my mind
being entirely in abeyance。 This malady is very bitter on the
literary man。 I have had it now coming on for a month； and it
seems to get worse instead of better。 If it should prove to be
softening of the brain； a melancholy interest will attach to the
present document。 I heard a great deal about you from my mother
and Graham Balfour； the latter declares that you could take a First
in any Samoan subject。 If that be so； I should like to hear you on
the theory of the constitution。 Also to consult you on the force
of the particles O LO 'O and UA； which are the subject of a dispute
among local pundits。 You might； if you ever answer this； give me
your opinion on the origin of the Samoan race； just to complete the
favour。
They both say that you are looking well； and I suppose I may
conclude from that that you are feeling passably。 I wish I was。
Do not suppose from this that I am ill in body； it is the numskull
that I complain of。 And when that is wrong； as you must be very
keenly aware； you begin every day with a smarting disappointment；
which is not good for the temper。 I am in one of the humours when
a man wonders how any one can be such an ass as to embrace the
profession of letters； and not get apprenticed to a barber or keep
a baked…potato stall。 But I have no doubt in the course of a week；
or perhaps to…morrow； things will look better。
We have at present in port the model warship of Great Britain。 She
is called the CURACOA； and has the nicest set of officers and men
conceivable。 They； the officers； are all very intimate with us；
and the front verandah is known as the Curacoa Club； and the road
up to Vailima is known as the Curacoa Track。 It was rather a
surprise to me； many naval officers have I known； and somehow had
not learned to think entirely well of them； and perhaps sometimes
ask myself a little uneasily how that kind of men could do great
actions？ and behold！ the answer comes to me； and I see a ship that
I would guarantee to go anywhere it was possible for men to go； and
accomplish anything it was permitted man to attempt。 I had a
cruise on board of her not long ago to Manu'a； and was delighted。
The goodwill of all on board； the grim playfulness of … quarters；
with the wounded falling down at the word； the ambulances hastening
up and carrying them away； the Captain suddenly crying； 'Fire in
the ward…room！' and the squad hastening forward with the hose； and；
last and most curious spectacle of all； all the men in their dust…
coloured fatigue clothes； at a note of the bugle； falling
simultaneously flat on deck； and the ship proceeding with its
prostrate crew … QUASI to ram an enemy； our dinner at night in a
wild open anchorage； the ship rolling almost to her gunwales； and
showing us alternately her bulwarks up in the sky； and then the
wild broken cliffy palm…crested shores of the island with the surf
thundering and leaping close aboard。 We had the ward…room mess on
deck； lit by pink wax tapers； everybody； of course； in uniform but
myself； and the first lieutenant （who is a rheumaticky body）
wrapped in a boat cloak。 Gradually the sunset faded out； the
island disappeared from the eye； though it remained menacingly
present to the ear with the voice of the surf； and then the captain
turned on the searchlight and gave us the coast； the beach； the
trees； the native houses； and the cliffs by glimpses of daylight； a
kind of deliberate lightning。 About which time； I suppose； we must
have come as far as the dessert； and were probably drinking our
first glass of port to Her Majesty。 We stayed two days at the
island； and had； in addition； a very picturesque snapshot at the
native life。 The three islands of Manu'a are independent； and are
ruled over by a little slip of a half…caste girl about twenty； who
sits all day in a pink gown； in a little white European house with
about a quarter of an acre of roses in front of it； looking at the
palm…trees on the village street； and listening to the surf。 This；
so far as I could discover； was all she had to do。 'This is a very
dull place；' she said。 It appears she could go to no other village
for fear of raising the jealousy of her own people in the capital。
And as for going about 'tafatafaoing；' as we say here； its cost was
too enormous。 A strong able…bodied native must walk in front of
her and blow the conch shell continuously from the moment she
leaves one house until the moment she enters another。 Did you ever
blow the conch shell？ I presume not； but the sweat literally
hailed off that man； and I expected every moment to see him burst a
blood…vessel。 We were entertained to kava in the guest…house with
some very original features。 The young men who run for the KAVA
have a right to misconduct themselves AD LIBITUM on the way back；
and though they were told to restrain themselves on the occasion of
our visit； there was a strange hurly…burly at their return； when
they came beating the trees and the posts of the houses； leaping；
shouting； and yelling like Bacchants。
I tasted on that occasion what it is to be great。 My name was
called next after the captain's； and several chiefs （a thing quite
new to me； and not at all Samoan practice） drank to me by name。
And now； if you are not sick of the CURACOA and Manu'a； I am； at
least on paper。 And I decline any longer to give you examples of
how not to write。
By the by； you sent me long ago a work by Anatole France； which I
confess I did not TASTE。 Since then I have made the acquaintance
of the ABB