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speak time and again； and I remember nothing that was unkind；
nothing that was untrue； nothing that was not helpful； from your
lips。 It is the ill…talkers that should hear no more。 God knows；
I know no word of consolation； but I do feel your trouble。 You are
the more open to letters now； let me talk to you for two pages。 I
have nothing but happiness to tell； and you may bless God you are a
man so sound…hearted that （even in the freshness of your calamity）
I can come to you with my own good fortune unashamed and secure of
sympathy。 It is a good thing to be a good man； whether deaf or
whether dumb； and of all our fellow…craftsmen （whom yet they count
a jealous race）； I never knew one but gave you the name of honesty
and kindness： come to think of it gravely； this is better than the
finest hearing。 We are all on the march to deafness； blindness；
and all conceivable and fatal disabilities； we shall not all get
there with a report so good。 My good news is a health
astonishingly reinstated。 This climate； these voyagings； these
landfalls at dawn； new islands peaking from the morning bank； new
forested harbours； new passing alarms of squalls and surf； new
interests of gentle natives； … the whole tale of my life is better
to me than any poem。
I am fresh just now from the leper settlement of Molokai； playing
croquet with seven leper girls； sitting and yarning with old；
blind； leper beachcombers in the hospital； sickened with the
spectacle of abhorrent suffering and deformation amongst the
patients； touched to the heart by the sight of lovely and effective
virtues in their helpers： no stranger time have I ever had； nor
any so moving。 I do not think it a little thing to be deaf； God
knows； and God defend me from the same！ … but to be a leper； of one
of the self…condemned； how much more awful！ and yet there's a way
there also。 'There are Molokais everywhere；' said Mr。 Dutton；
Father Damien's dresser； you are but new landed in yours； and my
dear and kind adviser； I wish you； with all my soul； that patience
and courage which you will require。 Think of me meanwhile on a
trading schooner； bound for the Gilbert Islands； thereafter for the
Marshalls； with a diet of fish and cocoanut before me； bound on a
cruise of … well； of investigation to what islands we can reach；
and to get （some day or other） to Sydney； where a letter addressed
to the care of R。 Towns & Co。 will find me sooner or later； and if
it contain any good news； whether of your welfare or the courage
with which you bear the contrary； will do me good。 … Yours
affectionately （although so near a stranger）；
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO SIDNEY COLVIN
SCHOONER 'EQUATOR；' APAIANG LAGOON； AUGUST 22ND； 1889。
MY DEAR COLVIN； … The missionary ship is outside the reef trying
（vainly） to get in； so I may have a chance to get a line off。 I am
glad to say I shall be home by June next for the summer； or we
shall know the reason why。 For God's sake be well and jolly for
the meeting。 I shall be； I believe； a different character from
what you have seen this long while。 This cruise is up to now a
huge success； being interesting； pleasant； and profitable。 The
beachcomber is perhaps the most interesting character here； the
natives are very different； on the whole； from Polynesians： they
are moral； stand…offish （for good reasons）； and protected by a dark
tongue。 It is delightful to meet the few Hawaiians （mostly
missionaries） that are dotted about； with their Italian BRIO and
their ready friendliness。 The whites are a strange lot； many of
them good； kind； pleasant fellows； others quite the lowest I have
ever seen even in the slums of cities。 I wish I had time to
narrate to you the doings and character of three white murderers
（more or less proven） I have met。 One； the only undoubted assassin
of the lot； quite gained my affection in his big home out of a
wreck； with his New Hebrides wife in her savage turban of hair and
yet a perfect lady； and his three adorable little girls in Rob Roy
Macgregor dresses； dancing to the hand organ； performing circus on
the floor with startling effects of nudity； and curling up together
on a mat to sleep； three sizes； three attitudes； three Rob Roy
dresses； and six little clenched fists： the murderer meanwhile
brooding and gloating over his chicks； till your whole heart went
out to him； and yet his crime on the face of it was dark：
disembowelling； in his own house； an old man of seventy； and him
drunk。
It is lunch…time； I see； and I must close up with my warmest love
to you。 I wish you were here to sit upon me when required。 Ah！ if
you were but a good sailor！ I will never leave the sea； I think；
it is only there that a Briton lives： my poor grandfather； it is
from him I inherit the taste； I fancy； and he was round many
islands in his day； but I； please God； shall beat him at that
before the recall is sounded。 Would you be surprised to learn that
I contemplate becoming a shipowner？ I do； but it is a secret。
Life is far better fun than people dream who fall asleep among the
chimney stacks and telegraph wires。
Love to Henry James and others near。 … Ever yours； my dear fellow；
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
EQUATOR TOWN； APEMAMA； OCTOBER 1889。
No MORNING STAR came； however； and so now I try to send this to you
by the schooner J。 L。 TIERNAN。 We have been about a month ashore；
camping out in a kind of town the king set up for us： on the idea
that I was really a 'big chief' in England。 He dines with us
sometimes； and sends up a cook for a share of our meals when he
does not come himself。 This sounds like high living！ alas；
undeceive yourself。 Salt junk is the mainstay； a low island；
except for cocoanuts； is just the same as a ship at sea： brackish
water； no supplies； and very little shelter。 The king is a great
character … a thorough tyrant； very much of a gentleman； a poet； a
musician； a historian； or perhaps rather more a genealogist … it is
strange to see him lying in his house among a lot of wives （nominal
wives） writing the History of Apemama in an account…book； his
description of one of his own songs； which he sang to me himself；
as 'about sweethearts； and trees； and the sea … and no true； all…
the…same lie；' seems about as compendious a definition of lyric
poetry as a man could ask。 Tembinoka is here the great attraction：
all the rest is heat and tedium and villainous dazzle； and yet more
villainous mosquitoes。 We are like to be here； however； many a
long week before we get away； and then whither？ A strange trade
this voyaging： so vague； so bound…down； so helpless。 Fanny has
been planting some vegetables； and we have actually onions and
radishes coming up： ah； onion…despiser； were you but awhile in a
low island； how your heart would leap at sight of a coster's