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no L and no S in their language。 Rui is six feet three in his
stockings； and a magnificent man。 We all have straw hats； for the
sun is strong。 We drive between the sea； which makes a great
noise； and the mountains； the road is cut through a forest mostly
of fruit trees； the very creepers； which take the place of our ivy；
heavy with a great and delicious fruit； bigger than your head and
far nicer； called Barbedine。 Presently we came to a house in a
pretty garden； quite by itself； very nicely kept； the doors and
windows open； no one about； and no noise but that of the sea。 It
looked like a house in a fairy…tale； and just beyond we must ford a
river； and there we saw the inhabitants。 Just in the mouth of the
river； where it met the sea waves； they were ducking and bathing
and screaming together like a covey of birds： seven or eight
little naked brown boys and girls as happy as the day was long； and
on the banks of the stream beside them； real toys … toy ships； full
rigged； and with their sails set； though they were lying in the
dust on their beam ends。 And then I knew for sure they were all
children in a fairy…story； living alone together in that lonely
house with the only toys in all the island； and that I had myself
driven； in my four…wheeled gig； into a corner of the fairy…story；
and the question was； should I get out again？ But it was all
right； I guess only one of the wheels of the gig had got into the
fairy…story； and the next jolt the whole thing vanished； and we
drove on in our sea…side forest as before； and I have the honour to
be Tomarcher's valued correspondent； TERIITEPA； which he was
previously known as
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
Letter： TO SIDNEY COLVIN
YACHT 'CASCO；' AT SEA； 14TH JANUARY； 1889。
MY DEAR COLVIN； … Twenty days out from Papeete。 Yes； sir； all
that； and only （for a guess） in 4 degrees north or at the best 4
degrees 30 minutes； though already the wind seems to smell a little
of the North Pole。 My handwriting you must take as you get； for we
are speeding along through a nasty swell； and I can only keep my
place at the table by means of a foot against the divan； the
unoccupied hand meanwhile gripping the ink…bottle。 As we begin （so
very slowly） to draw near to seven months of correspondence； we are
all in some fear； and I want to have letters written before I shall
be plunged into that boiling pot of disagreeables which I
constantly expect at Honolulu。 What is needful can be added there。
We were kept two months at Tautira in the house of my dear old
friend； Ori a Ori； till both the masts of this invaluable yacht had
been repaired。 It was all for the best： Tautira being the most
beautiful spot； and its people the most amiable； I have ever found。
Besides which； the climate suited me to the ground； I actually went
sea…bathing almost every day； and in our feasts （we are all huge
eaters in Taiarapu） have been known to apply four times for pig。
And then again I got wonderful materials for my book； collected
songs and legends on the spot； songs still sung in chorus by
perhaps a hundred persons； not two of whom can agree on their
translation； legends； on which I have seen half a dozen seniors
sitting in conclave and debating what came next。 Once I went a
day's journey to the other side of the island to Tati； the high
chief of the Tevas … MY chief that is； for I am now a Teva and
Teriitera； at your service … to collect more and correct what I had
already。 In the meanwhile I got on with my work； almost finished
the MASTER OF BALLANTRAE； which contains more human work than
anything of mine but KIDNAPPED； and wrote the half of another
ballad； the SONG OF RAHERO； on a Taiarapu legend of my own clan；
sir … not so much fire as the FEAST OF FAMINE； but promising to be
more even and correct。 But the best fortune of our stay at Tautira
was my knowledge of Ori himself； one of the finest creatures
extant。 The day of our parting was a sad one。 We deduced from it
a rule for travellers： not to stay two months in one place … which
is to cultivate regrets。
At last our contemptible ship was ready； to sea we went； bound for
Honolulu and the letter…bag； on Christmas Day； and from then to now
have experienced every sort of minor misfortune； squalls； calms；
contrary winds and seas； pertinacious rains； declining stores； till
we came almost to regard ourselves as in the case of Vanderdecken。
Three days ago our luck seemed to improve； we struck a leading
breeze； got creditably through the doldrums； and just as we looked
to have the N。E。 trades and a straight run； the rains and squalls
and calms began again about midnight； and this morning； though
there is breeze enough to send us along； we are beaten back by an
obnoxious swell out of the north。 Here is a page of complaint；
when a verse of thanksgiving had perhaps been more in place。 For
all this time we must have been skirting past dangerous weather； in
the tail and circumference of hurricanes； and getting only
annoyance where we should have had peril； and ill…humour instead of
fear。
I wonder if I have managed to give you any news this time； or
whether the usual damn hangs over my letter？ 'The midwife
whispered； Be thou dull！' or at least inexplicit。 Anyway I have
tried my best； am exhausted with the effort； and fall back into the
land of generalities。 I cannot tell you how often we have planned
our arrival at the Monument： two nights ago； the 12th January； we
had it all planned out； arrived in the lights and whirl of
Waterloo； hailed a hansom； span up Waterloo Road； over the bridge；
etc。 etc。； and hailed the Monument gate in triumph and with
indescribable delight。 My dear Custodian； I always think we are
too sparing of assurances： Cordelia is only to be excused by Regan
and Goneril in the same nursery； I wish to tell you that the longer
I live； the more dear do you become to me； nor does my heart own
any stronger sentiment。 If the bloody schooner didn't send me
flying in every sort of direction at the same time； I would say
better what I feel so much； but really； if you were here； you would
not be writing letters； I believe； and even I； though of a more
marine constitution； am much perturbed by this bobbery and wish … O
ye Gods； how I wish！ … that it was done； and we had arrived； and I
had Pandora's Box （my mail bag） in hand； and was in the lively hope
of something eatable for dinner instead of salt horse； tinned
mutton； duff without any plums； and pie fruit； which now make up
our whole repertory。 O Pandora's Box！ I wonder what you will
contain。 As like as not you will contain but little money： if
that be so； we shall have to retire to 'Frisco in the CASCO； and
thence by sea VIA Panama to Southampton； where we should arrive in
April。 I would like fine to see you on the tug： ten years older
bot