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Lone stands the house； and the chimney…stone is cold。
Lone let it stand； now the friends are all departed；
The kind hearts； the true hearts； that loved the place of old。
R。 L。 S。
Letter： TO J。 A。 SYMONDS
NOVEMBER 11TH 1888。
One November night； in the village of Tautira； we sat at the high
table in the hall of assembly； hearing the natives sing。 It was
dark in the hall； and very warm； though at times the land wind blew
a little shrewdly through the chinks； and at times； through the
larger openings； we could see the moonlight on the lawn。 As the
songs arose in the rattling Tahitian chorus； the chief translated
here and there a verse。 Farther on in the volume you shall read
the songs themselves； and I am in hopes that not you only； but all
who can find a savour in the ancient poetry of places； will read
them with some pleasure。 You are to conceive us； therefore； in
strange circumstances and very pleasing； in a strange land and
climate； the most beautiful on earth； surrounded by a foreign race
that all travellers have agreed to be the most engaging； and taking
a double interest in two foreign arts。
We came forth again at last； in a cloudy moonlight； on the forest
lawn which is the street of Tautira。 The Pacific roared outside
upon the reef。 Here and there one of the scattered palm…built
lodges shone out under the shadow of the wood； the lamplight
bursting through the crannies of the wall。 We went homeward
slowly； Ori a Ori carrying behind us the lantern and the chairs；
properties with which we had just been enacting our part of the
distinguished visitor。 It was one of those moments in which minds
not altogether churlish recall the names and deplore the absence of
congenial friends； and it was your name that first rose upon our
lips。 'How Symonds would have enjoyed this evening！' said one； and
then another。 The word caught in my mind； I went to bed； and it
was still there。 The glittering； frosty solitudes in which your
days are cast arose before me： I seemed to see you walking there
in the late night； under the pine…trees and the stars； and I
received the image with something like remorse。
There is a modern attitude towards fortune； in this place I will
not use a graver name。 Staunchly to withstand her buffets and to
enjoy with equanimity her favours was the code of the virtuous of
old。 Our fathers； it should seem； wondered and doubted how they
had merited their misfortunes： we； rather how we have deserved our
happiness。 And we stand often abashed and sometimes revolted； at
those partialities of fate by which we profit most。 It was so with
me on that November night： I felt that our positions should be
changed。 It was you； dear Symonds； who should have gone upon that
voyage and written this account。 With your rich stores of
knowledge； you could have remarked and understood a thousand things
of interest and beauty that escaped my ignorance； and the brilliant
colours of your style would have carried into a thousand sickrooms
the sea air and the strong sun of tropic islands。 It was otherwise
decreed。 But suffer me at least to connect you； if only in name
and only in the fondness of imagination； with the voyage of the
'SILVER SHIP。'
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON。
DEAR SYMONDS； … I send you this （November 11th）； the morning of its
completion。 If I ever write an account of this voyage； may I place
this letter at the beginning？ It represents … I need not tell you；
for you too are an artist … a most genuine feeling； which kept me
long awake last night； and though perhaps a little elaborate； I
think it a good piece of writing。 We are IN HEAVEN HERE。 Do not
forget
R。 L。 S。
Please keep this： I have no perfect copy。
TAUTIRA； ON THE PENINSULA OF TAHITI。
Letter： TO THOMAS ARCHER
TAUTIRA； ISLAND OF TAHITI ＇NOVEMBER 1888＇。
DEAR TOMARCHER； … This is a pretty state of things！ seven o'clock
and no word of breakfast！ And I was awake a good deal last night；
for it was full moon； and they had made a great fire of cocoa…nut
husks down by the sea； and as we have no blinds or shutters； this
kept my room very bright。 And then the rats had a wedding or a
school…feast under my bed。 And then I woke early； and I have
nothing to read except Virgil's AENEID； which is not good fun on an
empty stomach； and a Latin dictionary； which is good for naught；
and by some humorous accident； your dear papa's article on
Skerryvore。 And I read the whole of that； and very impudent it is；
but you must not tell your dear papa I said so； or it might come to
a battle in which you might lose either a dear papa or a valued
correspondent； or both； which would be prodigal。 And still no
breakfast； so I said 'Let's write to Tomarcher。'
This is a much better place for children than any I have hitherto
seen in these seas。 The girls （and sometimes the boys） play a very
elaborate kind of hopscotch。 The boys play horses exactly as we do
in Europe； and have very good fun on stilts； trying to knock each
other down； in which they do not often succeed。 The children of
all ages go to church and are allowed to do what they please；
running about the aisles； rolling balls； stealing mamma's bonnet
and publicly sitting on it； and at last going to sleep in the
middle of the floor。 I forgot to say that the whips to play
horses； and the balls to roll about the church … at least I never
saw them used elsewhere … grow ready made on trees； which is rough
on toy…shops。 The whips are so good that I wanted to play horses
myself； but no such luck！ my hair is grey； and I am a great； big；
ugly man。 The balls are rather hard； but very light and quite
round。 When you grow up and become offensively rich； you can
charter a ship in the port of London； and have it come back to you
entirely loaded with these balls； when you could satisfy your mind
as to their character； and give them away when done with to your
uncles and aunts。 But what I really wanted to tell you was this：
besides the tree…top toys （Hush…a…by； toy…shop； on the tree…top！）；
I have seen some real MADE toys； the first hitherto observed in the
South Seas。
This was how。 You are to imagine a four…wheeled gig； one horse； in
the front seat two Tahiti natives； in their Sunday clothes； blue
coat； white shirt； kilt （a little longer than the Scotch） of a blue
stuff with big white or yellow flowers； legs and feet bare； in the
back seat me and my wife； who is a friend of yours； under our feet；
plenty of lunch and things： among us a great deal of fun in broken
Tahitian； one of the natives； the sub…chief of the village； being a
great ally of mine。 Indeed we have exchanged names； so that he is
now called Rui； the nearest they can come to Louis； for they have
no L and no S in their language。 Rui is six feet three in his
s