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was to wash ourselves and put on clean clothing； for
what we were wearing had not been changed since the
loss of the dhow。 Fortunately； as I think that I have
said； by far the greater part of our personal baggage
had been packed into the whaleboat； and was therefore
savedand brought hither by the bearersalthough all
the stores laid in by us for barter and presents to
the natives were lost。 Nearly all our clothing was
made of a well…shrunk and very strong gray flannel；
and excellent I found it for travelling in these
places； because though a Norfolk jacket； shirt； and
pair of trousers of it only weighed about four pounds；
a great consideration in a tropical country； where
every extra ounce tells on the wearer； it was warm；
and offered a good resistance to the rays of the sun；
and； best of all； to chills； which are so apt to
result from sudden changes of temperature。
Never shall I forget the comfort of the 〃wash and
brush…up；〃 and of those clean flannels。 The only thing
that was wanting to complete my joy was a cake of
soap； of which we had none。
Afterwards I discovered that the Amahagger； who do not
reckon dirt among their many disagreeable qualities；
use a kind of burned earth for washing purposes；
which； though unpleasant to the touch till one gets
accustomed to it； forms a very fair substitute for
soap。
By the time that I was dressed； and had combed and
trimmed my black beard； the previous condition of
which was certainly sufficiently unkempt to give
weight to Billali's appellation for me； the 〃Baboon；〃
I began to feel most uncommonly hungry。 Therefore I
was by no means sorry when； without the slightest
preparatory sound or warning； the curtain over the
entrance to my cave was flung aside； and another mute；
a young girl this time； announced to me by signs that
I could not misunderstandthat is； by opening her
mouth and pointing down itthat there was something
ready to eat。 Accordingly I followed her into the next
chamber； which we had not yet entered； where I found
Job； who had also； to his great embarrassment； been
conducted thither by a fair mute。 Job had never got
over the advances the former lady had made towards
him； and suspected every girl who came near to him of
similar designs。
〃These young parties have a way of looking at one；
sir；〃 he would say； apologetically； 〃which I don't
call respectable。〃
This chamber was twice the size of the sleeping…caves；
and I saw at once that it had originally served as a
refectory； and also probably as an embalming…room for
the Priests of the Dead； for I may as well say at once
that these hollowed…out caves were nothing more nor
less than vast catacombs； in which for tens of ages
the mortal remains of the great extinct race whose
monuments surrounded us had been first preserved； with
an art and a completeness that has never since been
equalled； and then hidden away for all time。 On each
side of this particular rock…chamber was a long and
solid stone table； about three feet wide by three feet
six in height； hewn out of the living rock； of which
it had formed part； and was still attached to at the
base。 These tables were slightly hollowed out or
curved inward； to give room for the knees of any one
sitting on the stone ledge that had been cut for a
bench along the side of the cave at a distance of
about two feet from them。 Each of them； also； was so
arranged that it ended right under a shaft pierced in
the rock for the admission of light and air。 On
examining them carefully； however； I saw that there
was a difference between them that had at first
escaped my attention； viz。； that one of the tables；
that to the left as we entered the cave； had evidently
been used； not to eat upon； but for the purposes of
embalming。 That this was beyond all question the case
was clear from five shallow depressions in the stone
of the table； all shaped like a human form； with a
separate place for the head to lie in； and a little
bridge to support the neck； each depression being of a
different size； so as to fit bodies varying in stature
from a full…grown man's to a small child's； and with
little holes bored at intervals to carry off fluid。
And； indeed； if any further confirmation were
required； we had but to look at the wall of the cave
above to find it。 For there； sculptured all round the
apartment； and looking nearly as fresh as the day it
was done； was the pictorial representation of the
death； embalming； and burial of an old man with a long
beard； probably an ancient king or grandee of this
country。
The first picture represented his death。 He was lying
upon a couch which had four short curved posts at the
corners coming to a knob at the end； in appearance
something like a written note of music； and was
evidently in the very act of expiring。 Gathered round
the couch were women and children weeping； the former
with their hair hanging down their backs。 The next
scene represented the embalmment of the body； which
lay nude upon a table with depressions in it； similar
to the one before us； probably； indeed； it was a
picture of the same table。 Three men were employed at
the workone superintending； one holding a funnel
shaped exactly like a port…wine strainer； of which the
narrow end was fixed in an incision in the breast； no
doubt in the great pectoral artery； while the third；
who was depicted as standing straddle legged over the
corpse； held a kind of large jug high in his hand； and
poured from it some steaming fluid which fell
accurately into the funnel。 The most curious part of
this sculpture is that both the man with the funnel
and the man who poured the fluid are drawn holding
their noses； either I suppose because of the stench
arising from the body； or more probably to keep out
the aromatic fumes of the hot fluid which was being
forced into the dead man's veins。 Another curious
thing which I am unable to explain is that all three
men were represented as having a band of linen tied
round the face with holes in it for the eyes。
The third sculpture was a picture of the burial of the
deceased。 There he was； stiff and cold； clothed in a
linen robe； and laid out on a stone slab such as I had
slept upon at our first sojourning…place。 At his head
and feet burned lamps； and by his side were placed
several of the beautiful painted vases that I have
described； which were perhaps supposed to be full of
provisions。 The little chamber was crowded with
mourners； and with musicians playing on an instrument
resembling a lyre； while near the foot of the corpse
stood a man with a sheet； with which he was preparing
to cover it from view。
These sculptures； looked at merely as works of art；
were so remarkable that I make no apology for
describing them rather fully。 They struck me also as
being of surpassing interest as representing； probably
with studious accuracy； the last rites of the dead as
practised among an utterly lost people； and even then
I thought how envious some antiquarian friends of my
own at Cambridge would be if ever I got an opportunity