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the malay archipelago-2-第70章

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s; and full of strong currents; so that an unfavourable wind stopped us altogether。 One day; when nearly clear; a contrary tide and head wind drove us ten miles back to our anchorage of the night before。 This delay made us afraid of running short of water if we should be becalmed at sea; and we therefore determined; if possible; to touch at the island where our men had been lost; and which lay directly in our proper course。 The wind was; however; as usual; contrary; being S。S。W。 instead of S。S。E。; as it should have been at this time of the year; and all we could do was to reach the island of Gagie; where we came to an anchor by moonlight under bare volcanic hills。 In the morning we tried to enter a deep bay; at the head of which some Galela fishermen told us there was water; but a head…wind prevented us。 For the reward of a handkerchief; however; they took us to the place in their boat; and we filled up our jars and bamboos。 We then went round to their camping…place on the north coast of the island to try and buy something to eat; but could only get smoked turtle meat as black and as hard as lumps of coal。 A little further on there was a plantation belonging to Guebe people; but under the care of a Papuan slave; and the next morning we got some plantains and a few vegetables in exchange for a handkerchief and some knives。 On leaving this place our anchor had got foul in some rock or sunken log in very deep water; and after many unsuccessful attempts; we were forced to cut our rattan cable and leave it behind us。 We had now only one anchor left。

Starting early; on the 4th of October; the same S。S。W wind continued; and we began to fear that we should hardly clear the southern point of Gilolo。 The night of the 5th was squally; with thunder; but after midnight it got tolerably fair; and we were going along with a light wind arid looking out for the coast of Gilolo; which we thought we must be nearing; when we heard a dull roaring sound; like a heavy surf; behind us。 In a short time the roar increased; and we saw a white line of foam coming on; which rapidly passed us without doing any harm; as our boat rose easily over the wave。 At short intervals; ten or a dozen others overtook us with bleat rapidity; and then the sea became perfectly smooth; as it was before。 I concluded at once that these must be earthquake waves; and on reference to the old voyagers we find that these seas have been long subject to similar phenomena。 Dampier encountered them near Mysol and New Guinea; and describes them as follows: 〃We found here very strange tides; that ran in streams; making a great sea; and roaring so loud that we could hear them before they came within a mile of us。 The sea round about them seemed all broken; and tossed the ship so that she would not answer her helm。 These ripplings commonly lasted ten or twelve minutes; and then the sea became as still and smooth as a millpond。 We sounded often when in the midst of them; but found no ground; neither could we perceive that they drove us any way。 We had in one night several of these tides; that came mostly from the west; and the wind being from that quarter we commonly heard them a long time before they came; and sometimes lowered our topsails; thinking it was a gust of wind。 They were of great length; from north to south; but their breadth not exceeding 200 yards; and they drove a great pace。 For though we had little wind to move us; yet these world soon pass away; and leave the water very smooth; and just before we encountered them we met a great swell; but it did not break。〃 Some time afterwards; I learnt that an earthquake had been felt on the coast of Gilolo the very day we had encountered these curious waves。

When daylight came; we saw the land of Gilolo a few miles off; but the point was unfortunately a little to windward of us。 We tried to brace up all we could to round it; but as we approached the shore we got into a strong current setting northward; which carried us so rapidly with it that we found it necessary to stand off again; in order to get out of its influence。 Sometimes we approached the point a little; and our hopes revived; then the wind fell; and we drifted slowly away。 Night found us in nearly the same position as we had occupied in the morning; so we hung down our anchor with about fifteen fathoms of cable to prevent drifting。 On the morning of the 7th we were however; a good way up the coast; and we now thought our only chance would be to got close in…shore; where there might be a return current; and we could then row。 The prau was heavy; and my men very poor creatures for work; so that it took us six hours to get to the edge of the reef that fringed the shore; and as the wind might at any moment blow on to it; our situation was a very dangerous one。 Luckily; a short distance off there was a sandy bay; where a small stream stopped the growth of the coral; and by evening we reached this and anchored for the night。 Here we found some Galela men shooting deer and pigs; but they could not or would not speak Malay; and we could get little information from them。 We found out that along shore the current changed with the tide; while about a mile out it was always one way; and against us; and this gave us some hopes of getting back to the point; from which we were now distant twenty miles。 Next morning we found that the Galela men had left before daylight; having perhaps some vague fear of our intentions; anal very likely taking me for a pirate。 During the morning a boat passed; and the people informed us that; at a short distance further towards the point; there was a much better harbour; where there were plenty of Galela men; from whom we; might probably get some assistance。

At three in the afternoon; when the current turned; we started; but having a head…wind; made slow progress。 At dusk we reached the entrance of the harbour; but an eddy and a gust of wind carried us away and out to sea。 After sunset there was a land breeze; and we sailed a little to the south…east。 It then became calm; and eve hung down our anchor forty fathoms; to endeavour to counteract the current; but it was of little avail; and in the morning we found ourselves a good way from shore; and just opposite our anchorage of the day before; which we again reached by hard rowing。 I gave the men this day to rest and sleep; and the next day (Oct。 10th) we again started at two in the morning with a land breeze。 After I had set them to their oars; and given instructions to keep close in…shore; and on no account to get out to sea; I went below; being rather unwell。 At daybreak I found; to my great astonishment; that we were again far off…shore; and was told that the wind had gradually turned more ahead; and had carried us outnone of them having the sense to take down the sail and row in…shore; or to call me。 As soon as it was daylight; we saw that we had drifted back; and were again opposite our former anchorage; and; for the third time; had to row hard to get to it。 As we approached the shore; I saw that the current was favourable to us; and we continued down the coast till we were close to the entrance to the lower harbour。 Just as we were congratulating ourselves on having at last reached it; a strong s
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