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the malay archipelago-2-第65章

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ign of the smallest stream。 On our way back; noticing a very small dry bed of a watercourse; I went up it to explore; although everything was so dry that my men loudly declared it was useless to expect water there; but a little way up I was rewarded by finding a few pints in a small pool。 We searched higher up in every hole and channel where water marks appeared; but could find not a drop more。 Sending one of my men for a large jar and teacup; we searched along the beach till we found signs of another dry watercourse; and on ascending this were so fortunate as to discover two deep sheltered rock…holes containing several gallons of water; enough to fill all our jars。 When the cup came we enjoyed a good drink of the cool pure water; and before we left had carried away; I believe; every drop on the island。

In the evening a good…sized prau appeared in sight; making apparently for the island where our men were left; and we had some hopes they might be seen and picked up; but it passed along mid…channel; and did not notice the signals we tried to make。 I was now; however; pretty easy as to the fate of the men。 There was plenty of sago on our rocky island; and there world probably be some on the fiat one they were left on。 They had choppers; and could cut down a tree and make sago; and would most likely find sufficient water by digging。 Shell…fish were abundant; and they would be able to manage very well till some boat should touch there; or till I could send and fetch them。 The next day we devoted to cutting wood; filling up our jars with all the water we could find; and making ready to sail in the evening。 I shot a small lory closely resembling a common species at Ternate; and a glossy starling which differed from the allied birds of Ceram and Matabello。 Large wood…pigeons and crows were the only other birds I saw; but I did not obtain specimens。

About eight in the evening of June 25th we started; and found that with all hands at work we could just haul up our mainsail。 We had a fair wind during the night and sailed north…east; finding ourselves in the morning about twenty miles west of the extremity of Waigiou with a number of islands intervening。 About ten o'clock we ran full on to a coral reef; which alarmed us a good deal; but luckily got safe off again。 About two in the afternoon we reached an extensive coral reef; and were sailing close alongside of it; when the wind suddenly dropped; and we drifted on to it before we could get in our heavy mainsail; which we were obliged to let run down and fall partly overboard。 We had much difficulty in getting off; but at last got into deep water again; though with reefs and islands all around us。 At night we did not know what to do; as no one on board could tell where we were or what dangers might surround us; the only one of our crew who was acquainted with the coast of Waigiou having been。 left on the island。 We therefore took in all sail and allowed ourselves to drift; as we were some miles from the nearest land。 A light breeze; however; sprang up; and about midnight we found ourselves again bumping over a coral reef。 As it was very dark; and we knew nothing of our position; we could only guess how to get off again; and had there been a little more wind we might have been knocked to pieces。 However; in about half an hour we did get off; and then thought it best to anchor on the edge of the reef till morning。 Soon after daylight on the 7th; finding our prau had received no damage; we sailed on with uncertain winds and squalls; threading our way among islands and reefs; and guided only by a small map; which was very incorrect and quite useless; and by a general notion of the direction we ought to take。 In the afternoon we found a tolerable anchorage under a small island and stayed for the night; and I shot a large fruit…pigeon new to me; which I have since named Carpophaga tumida。 I also saw and shot at the rare white…headed kingfisher (Halcyon saurophaga); but did not kill it。 The next morning we sailed on; and having a fair wind reached the shores of the large island of Waigiou。 On rounding a point we again ran full on to a coral reef with our mainsail up; but luckily the wind had almost died away; and with a good deal of exertion we managed get safely off。

We now had to search for the narrow channel among islands; which we knew was somewhere hereabouts; and which leads to the villages on the south side ofWaigiou。 Entering a deep bay which looked promising; we got to the end of it; but it was then dusk; so we anchored for the night; and having just finished all our water could cook no rice for supper。 Next morning early (29th) we went on shore among the mangroves; and a little way inland found some water; which relieved our anxiety considerably; and left us free to go along the coast in search of the opening; or of some one who could direct us to it。 During the three days we had now been among the reefs and islands; we had only seen a single small canoe; which had approached pretty near to us; and then; notwithstanding our signals; went off in another direction。 The shores seemed all desert; not a house; or boat; or human being; or a puff of smoke was to be seen; and as we could only go on the course that the ever…changing wind would allow us (our hands being too few to row any distance); our prospects of getting to our destination seemed rather remote and precarious。 Having gone to the eastward extremity of the deep bay we had entered; without finding any sign of an opening; we turned westward; and towards evening were so fortunate as to find a small village of seven miserable houses built on piles in the water。 Luckily the Orang… kaya; or head man; could speak a little。 Malay; and informed us that the entrance to the strait was really in the bay we had examined; but that it was not to be seen except when… close inshore。 He said the strait was often very narrow; and wound among lakes and rocks and islands; and that it would take two days to reach the large village of Muka; and three more to get to Waigiou。 I succeeded in hiring two men to go with us to Muka; bringing a small boat in which to return; but we had to wait a day for our guides; so I took my gun and made a little excursion info the forest。 The day was wet and drizzly; and I only succeeded in shooting two small birds; but I saw the great black cockatoo; and had a glimpse of one or two Birds of Paradise; whose loud screams we had heard on first approaching the coast。 Leaving the village the next morning (July 1st) with a light wind; it took us all day to reach the entrance to the channel; which resembled a small river; and was concealed by a projecting point; so that it was no wonder we did not discover it amid the dense forest vegetation which everywhere covers these islands to the water's edge。 A little way inside it becomes bounded by precipitous rocks; after winding among which for about two miles; we emerged into what seemed a lake; but which was in fact a deep gulf having a narrow entrance on the south coast。 This gulf was studded along its shores with numbers of rocky islets; mostly mushroom shaped; from the ‘eater having worn away the lower part of the soluble coralline limestone; leaving them overhanging from t
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