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wanted considerable repairs； and no one could be found to do the work； although about four times its value was offered。 The captain； therefore； recommended me to take possession of a pretty good house near his own； whose owner was not expected for some weeks； and as I was anxious to be on shore； I immediately had it cleared out； and by evening had all my things housed； and was regularly installed as an inhabitant of Dobbo。 I had brought with me a cane chair； and a few light boards； which were soon rigged up into a table and shelves。 A broad bamboo bench served as sofa and bedstead； my boxes were conveniently arranged； my mats spread on the floor； a window cut in the palm…leaf wall to light my table； and though the place was as miserable and gloomy a shed as could be imagined； I felt as contented as if I had obtained a well…furnished mansion； and looked forward to a month's residence in it with unmixed satisfaction。
The next morning； after an early breakfast； I set off to explore the virgin forests of Aru； anxious to set my mind at rest as to the treasures they were likely to yield； and the probable success of my long…meditated expedition。 A little native imp was our guide； seduced by the gift of a German knife； value three… halfpence； and my Macassar boy Baderoon brought his chopper to clear the path if necessary。
We had to walk about half a mile along the beach； the ground behind the village being mostly swampy； and then turned into the forest along a path which leads to the native village of Wamma； about three miles off on the other side of the island。 The path was a narrow one； and very little used； often swampy and obstructed by fallen trees； so that after about a mile we lost it altogether； our guide having turned back； and we were obliged to follow his example。 In the meantime； however； I had not been idle； and my day's captures determined the success of my journey in an entomological point of view。 I had taken about thirty species of butterflies； more than I had ever captured in a day since leaving the prolific banks of the Amazon； and among them were many most rare and beautiful insects； hitherto only known by a few specimens from New Guinea。 The large and handsome spectre butterfly； Hestia durvillei； the pale…winged peacock butterfly； Drusilla catops； and the most brilliant and wonderful of the clear…winged moths； Cocytia durvillei； were especially interesting； as well； as several little 〃blues；〃 equalling in brilliancy and beauty anything the butterfly world can produce。 In the other groups of insects I was not so successful； but this was not to be wondered at in a mere exploring ramble； when only what is most conspicuous and novel attracts the attention。 Several pretty beetles； a superb 〃bug；〃 and a few nice land… shells were obtained； and I returned in the afternoon well satisfied with my first trial of the promised land。
The next two days were so wet and windy that there was no going out； but on the succeeding one the sun shone brightly； and I had the good fortune to capture one of the most magnificent insects the world contains； the great bird…winged butterfly； Ornithoptera Poseidon。 I trembled with excitement as I saw it coming majestically towards me； and could hardly believe I had really succeeded in my stroke till I had taken it out of the net and was gazing； lost in admiration； at the velvet black and brilliant green of its wings； seven inches across； its bolder body； and crimson breast。 It is true I had seen similar insects in cabinets at home； but it is quite another thing to capture such oneself…to feel it struggling between one's fingers； and to gaze upon its fresh and living beauty； a bright gem shirring out amid the silent gloom of a dark and tangled forest。 The village of Dobbo held that evening at least one contented man。
Jan。 26th。Having now been here a fortnight； I began to understand a little of the place and its peculiarities。 Praus continually arrived； and the merchant population increased almost daily。 Every two or three days a fresh house was opened； and the necessary repairs made。 In every direction men were bringing in poles； bamboos； rattans； and the leaves of the nipa palm to construct or repair the walls； thatch； doors； and shutters of their houses； which they do with great celerity。 Some of the arrivals were Macassar men or Bugis； but more from the small island of Goram； at the east end of Ceram； whose inhabitants are the petty traders of the far East。 Then the natives of Aru come in from the other side of the islands （called here 〃blakang tana；〃 or 〃back of the country〃） with the produce they have collected during the preceding six months； and which they now sell to the traders； to some of whom they are most likely in debt。
Almost all； or I may safely say all； the new arrivals pay me a visit； to see with their own eyes the unheard…of phenomenon of a person come to stay at Dobbo who does not trade！ They have their own ideas of the uses that may possibly be made of stuffed birds； beetles； and shells which are not the right shellsthat is； 〃mother…of…pearl。〃 They every day bring me dead and broken shells； such as l can pick up by hundreds on the beach； and seem quite puzzled and distressed when I decline them。 If； however； there are any snail shells among a lot； I take them； and ask for morea principle of selection so utterly unintelligible to them； that they give it up in despair； or solve the problem by imputing hidden medical virtue to those which they see me preserve so carefully。
These traders are all of the Malay race； or a mixture of which Malay is the chef ingredient； with the exception of a few Chinese。 The natives of Aru； on the other hand； are； Papuans； with black or sooty brown skims； woolly or frizzly hair； thick… ridged prominent noses； and rather slender limbs。 Most of them wear nothing but a waist…cloth； and a few of them may be seen all day long wandering about the half…deserted streets of Dobbo offering their little bit of merchandise for sale。
Living in a trader's house everything is brought to me as well as to the rest；bundles of smoked tripang； or 〃beche de mer；〃 looking like sausages which have been rolled in mud and then thrown up the chimney； dried sharks' fins； mother…of…pearl shells； as well as birds of Paradise； which； however； are so dirty and so badly preserved that I have as yet found no specimens worth purchasing。 When I hardly look at the articles； and make no offer for them； they seem incredulous； and； as if fearing they have misunderstood me； again offer them； and declare what they want in returnknives； or tobacco； or sago； or handkerchiefs。 I then have to endeavour to explain； through any interpreter who may be at hand； that neither tripang nor pearl oyster shells have any charms for me； and that I even decline to speculate in tortoiseshell； but that anything eatable I will buy… …fish； or turtle； or vegetables of any sort。 Almost the only food； however； that we can obtain with any regularity； are fish and cockles of very good quality； and to supply our daily wants it is absolutely necessary to be always provided with four articlestobacco； knives； sago…cakes； and Dutch copper doits because when the particular thing asked for is not forthcom