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as we were starting; one of the strongest men refused to go at all; and his master had to beg and persuade him to go; and only succeeded by assuring him that I would give him something; so with this promise; and knowing that there would be plenty to eat and drink and little to do; the black gentleman was induced to favour us with his company and assistance。 In three hours' rowing and sailing we reached our destination; Sedingole; where there is a house belonging to the Sultan of Tidore; who sometimes goes there hunting。 It was a dirty ruinous shed; with no furniture but a few bamboo bedsteads。 On taking a walk into the country; I saw at once that it was no place for me。 For many miles extends a plain covered with coarse high grass; thickly dotted here and there with trees; the forest country only commencing at the hills a good way in the interior。 Such a place would produce few birds and no insects; and we therefore arranged to stay only two days; and then go on to Dodinga; at the narrow central isthmus of Gilolo; whence my friends would return to Ternate。 We amused ourselves shooting parrots; lories; and pigeons; and trying to shoot deer; of which we saw plenty; but could not get one; and our crew went out fishing with a net; so we did not want for provisions。 When the time came for us to continue our journey; a fresh difficulty presented itself; for our gentlemen slaves refused in a body to go with us; saying very determinedly that they would return to Ternate。 So their masters were obliged to submit; and I was left behind to get to Dodinga as I could。 Luckily I succeeded in hiring a small boat; which took me there the same night; with my two men and my baggage。
Two or three years after this; and about the same length of time before I left the East; the Dutch emancipated all their slaves; paying their owners a small compensation。 No ill results followed。 Owing to the amicable relations which had always existed between them and their masters; due no doubt in part to the Government having long accorded them legal rights and protection against cruelty and ill…usage; many continued in the same service; and after a little temporary difficulty in some cases; almost all returned to work either for their old or for new; masters。 The Government took the very proper step of placing every emancipated slave under the surveillance of the police… magistrate。 They were obliged to show that they were working for a living; and had some honestly…acquired means of existence。 All who could not do so were placed upon public works at low wages; and thus were kept from the temptation to peculation or other crimes; which the excitement of newly…acquired freedom; and disinclination to labour; might have led them into。
CHAPTER XXII。
GILOLO。
(MARCH AND SEPTEMBER 1858。)
I MADE but few and comparatively short visits to this large and little known island; but obtained a considerable knowledge of its natural history by sending first my boy Ali; and then my assistant; Charles Allen; who stayed two or three months each in the northern peninsula; and brought me back large collections of birds and insects。 In this chapter I propose to give a sketch of the parts which I myself visited。 My first stay was at Dodinga; situated at the head of a deep…bay exactly opposite Ternate; and a short distance up a little stream which penetrates a few miles inland。 The village is a small one; and is completely shut in by low hills。
As soon as I arrived; I applied to the head man of the village for a house to live in; but all were occupied; and there was much difficulty in finding one。 In the meantime I unloaded my baggage on the beach and made some tea; and afterwards discovered a small but which the owner was willing to vacate if I would pay him five guilders for a month's rent。 As this was something less than the fee…simple value of the dwelling; I agreed to give it him for the privilege of immediate occupation; only stipulating that he was to make the roof water…tight。 This he agreed to do; and came every day to tally and look at me; and when I each time insisted upon his immediately mending the roof according to contract; all the answer I could get was; 〃Ea nanti;〃 (Yes; wait a little。) However; when I threatened to deduct a quarter guilder from the rent for every day it was not done; and a guilder extra if any of my things were wetted; he condescended to work for half an hour; which did all that was absolutely necessary。
On the top of a bank; of about a hundred feet ascent from the water; stands the very small but substantial fort erected by the Portuguese。 Its battlements and turrets have long since been overthrown by earthquakes; by which its massive structure has also been rent; but it cannot well be thrown down; being a solid mass of stonework; forming a platform about ten feet high; and perhaps forty feet square。 It is approached by narrow steps under an archway; and is now surmounted by a row of thatched hovels; in which live the small garrison; consisting of; a Dutch corporal and four Javanese soldiers; the sole representatives of the Netherlands Government in the island。 The village is occupied entirely by Ternate men。 The true indigenes of Gilolo; 〃Alfuros〃 as they are here called; live on the eastern coast; or in the interior of the northern peninsula。 The distance across the isthmus at this place is only two miles; and there; is a good path; along which rice and sago are brought from the eastern villages。 The whole isthmus is very rugged; though not high; being a succession of little abrupt hills anal valleys; with angular masses of limestone rock everywhere projecting; and often almost blocking up the pathway。 Most of it is virgin forest; very luxuriant and picturesque; and at this time having abundance of large scarlet Ixoras in flower; which made it exceptionally gay。 I got some very nice insects here; though; owing to illness most of the time; my collection was a small one; and my boy Ali shot me a pair of one of the most beautiful birds of the East; Pitta gigas; a lame ground…thrush; whose plumage of velvety black above is relieved by a breast of pure white; shoulders of azure blue; and belly of vivid crimson。 It has very long and strong legs; and hops about with such activity in the dense tangled forest; bristling with rocks; as to make it very difficult to shoot。
In September 1858; after my return from New Guinea; I went to stay some time at the village of Djilolo; situated in a bay on the northern peninsula。 Here I obtained a house through the kindness of the Resident of Ternate; who sent orders to prepare one for me。 The first walk into the unexplored forests of a new locality is a moment of intense interest to the naturalist; as it is almost sure to furnish him with something curious or hitherto unknown。 The first thing I saw here was a flock of small parroquets; of which I shot a pair; and was pleased to find a most beautiful little long…tailed bird; ornamented with green; red; and blue colours; and quite new to me。 It was a variety of the Charmosyna placentis; one of the smallest and most elegant of the brush…tongued lories。 My hunters soon shot me several other fine birds; and I myself found a specimen of the rare and beauti