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is very beautiful； and has an exquisite figure； but was overloaded with
jewelry。 She wore a large nose…jewel； seven rings of large size
weighing down her finely formed ears； four necklaces； and silver
bangles on each arm from the wrist to the elbow； besides some on her
beautiful ankles。 She had an infant boy； the child of the regiment； in
her arms； clothed only in a silver hoop； and the father took him and
presented him to me with much pride。 It was a pleasant family group。
The few days here have been a real rest； I have been so much alone。
There are no women to twitter； and when Mr。 Maxwell is not at work he
talks of things that are worth talking about。 The climate； too； is
bracing and wholesome； and the boisterous afternoon wind； which sweeps
letters and papers irreverently away； keeps off the mosquitoes。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XX
Novel CircumstancesThe Excitements of the JungleEternal
SummerThe Sensitive PlantThe Lotus Lake of Matang
Elephant UglinessA Malay MahoutA Novel Experience
Domestic PetsMalay Hospitality…Land Leeches〃A Fearful
Joy〃The End of My First Elephant RideKwala Kangsa
BRITISH RESIDENCY； KWALA KANGSA； February 16。
This is rather exciting； for I have had an unusual journey； and my
circumstances are unusual； for Mr。 Low； the Resident； has not returned；
and I am not only alone in his bungalow in the heart of the jungle； but
so far as I can learn I am the only European in the region。
〃Of all my wild adventures past
This frantic feat will prove the last；〃
for in a fortnight I propose to be at Pinang on my way to conventional
Ceylon； and the beloved 〃wilds〃 will be left behind。
At 4：30 this morning Mr。 Maxwell's energetic voice roused me； and I got
up； feeling for the first time in Larut very tired from the unwonted
dissipation of another 〃dinner party；〃 and from having been kept awake
late by the frantic rushes of the lemur and the noise of the 〃trumpeter
beetle；〃 besides being awoke in a fright at 2 A。M。； by the noise made
in changing guard； from a dream that the Sikhs had mutinied and were
about to massacre the Europeans； myself included！ We had bananas and
chocolate； and just at daybreak walked down the hill； where I got into
a little trap drawn by a fiery little Sumatra pony； and driven by Mr。
Gibbons； a worthy Australian miner who is here road…making； and was
taken five miles to a place where the road becomes a quagmire not to be
crossed。 Elephants had been telegraphed for to meet me there； but the
telegraph was found to be broken。 Mr。 Maxwell； who accompanied us on
horseback； had sent a messenger on here for elephants； and was dismayed
on getting to the quagmire to meet the news that they had gone to the
jungle； so there was no means of conveyance but the small pachyderm
which was bringing my bag； and which was more than two hours behind。
There was nothing for it but to walk； and we tramped for four miles。 I
could not have done the half of it had I not had my 〃mountain dress〃
on； the identical mud…colored tweed； in which I waded through the mud
of Northern Japan。 The sun had risen splendidly among crimson clouds；
which； having turned gray； were a slight screen； and the air is so
comparatively dry that； though within 5 degrees of the equator； it was
not oppressively hot。
The drive had brought us out of the Chinese country into a region very
thinly peopled by Malays only； here and there along the roadside；
living in houses of all Malay styles； from the little attap cabin with
its gridiron floor supported on stilts； to the large picturesque house
with steep brown roofs； deep eaves and porches； and walls of matting or
bamboo basket work in squares； light and dark alternately； reached by
ladders with rungs eighteen inches apart； so difficult for shod feet。
The trees and plants of the jungle were very exciting。 Ah！ what a
delight it is to see trees and plants at home which one has only seen
as the exotics of a hothouse； or read of in books！ In the day's journey
I counted one hundred and twenty…six differing trees and shrubs；
fifty…three trailers； seventeen epiphytes； and twenty…eight ferns。 I
saw more of the shrubs and epiphytes than I have yet done from the
altitude of an elephant's back。 There was one Asplenium nidus ＇bird's
nest fern＇ which had thirty…seven perfect fronds radiating from a
centre； each frond from three and a quarter to five and a half feet
long； and varying from myrtle to the freshest tint of pea…green！
There was an orchid with hardly visible leaves； which bore six crowded
clusters of flowers close to the branch of the tree on which it grew；
each cluster composed of a number of spikes of red coral tipped with
pale green。 In the openings there were small trees with gorgeous
erythrina…like flowers； glowing begonias； red lilies； a trailer with
trumpet…shaped blossoms of canary yellow； and a smaller trailer； which
climbs over everything that is not high； entwining itself with the blue
Thunbergia； and bearing on single stalks single blossoms；
primrose…shaped； of a salmon orange color with a velvety black centre。
In some places one came upon three varieties of nepenthes or 〃monkey
cups；〃 some of their pitchers holding （I should think） a pint of fluid；
and most of them packed with the skeletons of betrayed guests； then in
moist places upon steel blue aspleniums and luxuriant selaginellas； and
then came caelogynes with white blossoms； white flowered dendrobiums
（crumentatum？）； all growing on or clinging to trees； with
scarlet…veined bauhinias； caladiums； ginger worts； and aroids；
inclining one to make incessant exclamations of wonder and delight。 You
cannot imagine how crowded together this tropical vegetation is。 There
is not room for half of it on the ground； so it seeks and finds its
home high up on the strong； majestic trees which bear it up into the
sunshine； where； indeed one has to look for most of the flowers。
It is glorious to see the vegetation of eternal summer and the lavish
prodigality of nature； and one revels among hothouse plants 〃at home；〃
and all the splendor of gigantic leaves； and the beauty and grace of
palms； bamboos； and tree…ferns； the great； gaudy flowers are as
marvelous as the gaudy plumaged birds； and I feel that no words can
convey an idea of the beauty and magnificence of an equatorial jungle；
but the very permanence of the beauty is almost a fault。 I should soon
come to long for the burst of spring with its general tenderness of
green； and its great broad splashes of sociable flowers； its masses of
buttercups； or ox…eye daisies； or dandelions； and for the glories of
autumn with its red and gold； and leagues of purple heather。 These
splendid orchids and other epiphytes grow singly。 One sees one and not
another； there are no broad masses of color to blaze in the distance；
the scents are heavy and overpowering； the wealth is embarrassing。 I
revel in it all and rejoice in it all； it is intoxicating； yet I am
haunted with visions of mossy banks starred with primroses and
anemones； of stream sides blue with gentian； of meadows golden with
buttercups； and fields scarlet with poppies； and in spite of my
enjoyment and tropical enthusiasm