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heat； though fierce； is not oppressive； and I have had a delightful
day。 The men returned when they could no longer see to shoot snipes；
with a well filled bag； and after sunset we dropped down to Bukit Jugra
or Langat。 Most of the river was as black as night with the heavy
shadows of the forest； but along the middle there was a lane of
lemon…colored water； the exquisite reflection of a lemon…colored sky。
The Resident and Mr。 Daly went down to the coast in the yacht to avoid
the mosquitoes of the interior； but I with Omar； one of the 〃body
guard；〃 half Malay half Kling； as my attendant； and Mr。 Syers； landed；
to remain at the magistrate's bungalow。 It was a lovely walk up the
hill through the palms and bananas； and the bayonets of our escort
gleamed in the intense moonlight； not with anything alarming about them
either； for an escort is only necessary because the place is so
infested by tigers。 The bungalow is large but rambling； and my room was
one built out at the end； with six windows with solid shutters； of
which Mr。 Ferney closed all but two； and half closed those； because of
a tiger which is infesting the immediate neighborhood of the house； and
whose growling； they say； is most annoying。 He killed a heifer
belonging to the Sultan two nights ago； and last night the sentry got a
shot at him from the veranda outside my room as he was engaged in most
undignified depredations upon the hen house。
There was a grand excitement yesterday morning。 A tigress was snared in
a pitfall and was shot。 Her corpse was brought to the bungalow warm and
limp。 She measured eight feet two inches from her nose to her tail； and
her tail was two feet six inches long。 She had whelps； and they must be
starving in the jungle tonight。 Her beautiful skin is hanging up。 All
the neighborhood； Chinese and Malay； turned out。 Some danced； and the
Sultan beat gongs。 Everybody seized upon a bit of the beast。 The Sultan
claimed the liver； which； when dried and powdered； is worth twice its
weight in gold； as a medicine。 The blood was taken； and I saw the
Chinamen drying it in the sun on small slabs； it is an invaluable
tonic！ The eyes； which were of immense size； were eagerly scrambled
for； that the hard parts in the centre； which are valuable charms；
might be set in gold as rings。 It was sad to see the terrible 〃glaring
eyeballs〃 of the jungle so dim and stiff。 The bones were taken to be
boiled down to a jelly； which； when some mysterious drug has been
added； is a grand tonic。 The gall is most precious； and the flesh was
all taken； but for what purpose I don't know。 A steak of it was stewed；
and I tasted it； and found it in flavor much like the meat of an
ancient and overworked draught ox； but Mr。 Ferney thought it like good
veal。 At dinner the whole talk was of the wild beasts of the jungle；
and； as we were all but among them； it was very fascinating。 I wanted
to go out by moonlight； but Mr。 Ferney said that it was not safe；
because of tigers； and even the Malays there don't go out after
nightfall。
Mr。 Ferney has given me a stick with a snake…mark on it； which was
given to him as a thing of great value。 The Malay donor said that
anyone carrying it would become invulnerable and invisible； and that if
you were to beat anyone with it； the beaten man would manifest all the
symptoms of snake poisoning！ Mr。 Ferney has also given me a kris。 When
I showed it to Omar this morning； he passed it across his face and
smelt it； and then said； 〃This kris goodhas ate a man。〃
I could not sleep much； there were such strange noises； and the sentry
made the veranda creak all night outside my room； but this is a
splendid climate； and one is refreshed and ready to rise with the sun
after very little sleep。 The tropic mornings are glorious。 There is
such an abrupt and vociferous awakening of nature； all dew…bathed and
vigorous。 The rose…flushed sky looks cool； the air feels cool； one
longs to protract the delicious time。 Then with a suddenness akin to
that of his setting； the sun wheels above the horizon； and is high in
the heavens in no time； truly 〃coming forth as a bridegroom out of his
chamber； and rejoicing as a giant to run his course；〃 and as truly
〃There is nothing hid from the heat thereof；〃 for hardly is he visible
than the heat becomes tremendous。 But tropical trees and flowers；
instead of drooping and withering under the solar fury； rejoice in it。
This morning was splendid。 The great banana fronds under the still；
blue sky looked truly tropical The mercury was 82 degrees at 7 A。M。 The
〃tiger mosquitoes；〃 day torments； large mosquitoes with striped legs； a
loud metallic hum； and a plethora of venom； were in full fury from
daylight。 Ammonia does not relieve their bites as it does those of the
night mosquitoes； and I am covered with inflamed and confluent lumps as
large as the half of a bantam's egg。 But these and other drawbacks； I
know from experience； will soon be forgotten； and I shall remember only
the beauty； the glory； and the intense enjoyment of this day。
Quite early the Rajah Moussa arrived in a baju of rich； gold…colored
silk； which suited his swarthy complexion。 He sat in the room
pretending to look over the Graphic； but in reality watching me； as I
wrote to you； just as I should watch an ouf。 At last he asked how many
Japanese I had killed！！！！
The succession is here hereditary in the male line； and this Rajah
Moussa is the Sultan's eldest son。 The Sultan receives 2；000 pounds a
year out of the revenue； and this Rajah 960 pounds。
The Resident arrived at nine； wearing a very fine dress sword； and gold
epaulettes on his linen coat； and under a broiling sun we all walked
through a cleared part of the jungle； through palms and bananas； to the
reception at the Sultan's； which was the 〃motive〃 of our visit。 The
Sultan； Abdulsamat； has three houses in a beautiful situation； at the
end of a beautiful valley。 They are in the purest style of Malay
architecture； and not a Western idea appears anywhere。 The wood of
which they are built is a rich brown red。 The roofs are very high and
steep； but somewhat curved。 The architecture is simple； appropriate；
and beautiful The dwelling consists of the Sultan's house； a broad；
open passage； and then the women's house or harem。 At the end of the
above passage is the audience…hall； and the front entrance to the
Sultan's house is through a large porch which forms a convenient
reception room on occasions like that of yesterday。
From this back passage or court a ladder； with rungs about two feet
apart； leads into the Sultan's house； and a step…ladder into the
women's house。 Two small boys； entirely naked； were incongruous objects
sitting at the foot of the ladder。 Here we waited for him； two files of
policemen being drawn up as a guard of honor。 He came out of the
women's house very actively； shook hands with each of us （obnoxious
custom！）； and passed through the lines of police round to the other
side of his house into the porch； the floor of which was covered with
fine matting nearly concealed by handsome Persian rugs。
The Sultan sat on a high…backed； carved chair or throne。 All the other
chairs were plain。