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sanctity； with his scornful face and superb air； could so far demean
himself as to wait on 〃dogs of infidels〃 at dinner； or appear in my
room at the Stadthaus； with matutinal tea and bananas！
This magnificence heralded the Datu Klana； Syed Abdulrahman； the
reigning prince of the native State of Sungei Ujong； his principal
wife； and his favorite daughter； a girl of twelve。 It has been decided
that I am to go to Sungei Ujong； and that I am to be escorted by Mr。
Hayward； the superintendent of police； but； unfortunately； I am to go
up in the Datu Klana's absence； and one object of his visit was to
express his regret。 This prince has been faithful to British interests；
and is on most friendly terms with the resident； Captain Murray； and
the Governor of Malacca。 During his visit Babu interpreted； but Miss
Shaw； who understands Malay； said that； instead of interpreting
faithfully； he was making enormous demands on my behalf！ At all events；
Syed Abdulrahman； with truly exaggerated Oriental politeness； presented
me with the key of his house in the interior。
This prince is regarded by British officials as an enlightened ruler；
though he is a rigid Mussulman。 His dress looked remarkably plain
beside that of the splendid Babu。 He wore a Malay bandana handkerchief
round his head； knotted into a peak； a rich brocade baju or short
jacket； a dark Manilla sarong； trousers of Mandarin satin striped with
red； a girdle clasp set with large diamonds； and sandals with jeweled
cloth…of…gold straps。 His wife； though elderly and decidedly plain
looking； has a very pleasing expression。 She wore a black veil over her
head； and her kabaya； or upper garment； was fastened with three diamond
clasps。 The bright little daughter wore a green veil with gold stars
upon it over her head； and ornaments of rich； red gold elaborately
worked。 The Datu Klana apologized for the extreme plainness of their
dress by saying that they had only just arrived； and that they had
called before changing their traveling clothes。 When they departed the
two ladies threw soft silk shawls over their heads； and held them so as
to cover their faces except their eyes。
There are now sixty…seven thousand Malays in the British territory of
Malacca； and the number is continually increased by fugitives from the
system of debt…slavery which prevails in some of the adjacent States；
and by immigration from the same States of Malays who prefer the
security which British rule affords。
＇The police force is Malay； and it seems as if the Malays had a special
aptitude for this semi…military service； for they not only form the
well…drilled protective forces of Malacca； Sungei Ujong； and Selangor；
but that fine body of police in Ceylon of which Mr。 George Campbell has
so much reason to be proud。 Otherwise very few of them enter British
employment； greatly preferring the easy； independent life of their
forest kampongs。＇
The commercial decay of Malacca is a very interesting fact。* Formerly
fifty merchantmen were frequently lying in its roads at one time。 Here
the Portuguese fleet lay which escorted Xavier from Goa； and who can
say how many galleons freighted with the red gold of Ophir floated on
these quiet waters！ Now； Chinese junks； Malay prahus； a few Chinese
steamers； steam…launches from the native States； and two steamers which
call in passing； make up its trade。 There is neither newspaper； banker；
hotel； nor resident English merchant； The half…caste descendants of the
Portuguese are； generally speaking； indolent； degraded with the
degradation that is born of indolence； and proud。 The Malays dream away
their lives in the jungle； and the Chinese； who number twenty thousand；
are really the ruling population。
＇*Linscholt； two hundred and seventy years ago； writes：〃This place is
the market of all India； of China； and the Moluccas； and of other
islands round about； from all which places； as well as from Banda； Java；
Sumatra； Siam； Pegu； Bengal； Coromandil； and India； arrive ships which
come and go incessantly charged with an infinity of merchandises。〃＇
The former greatness of Malacca haunts one at all times。 The romantic
exploits of Albuquerque； who conquered it in 1511； apostrophized in the
Lusiad
〃Not eastward far though fair Malacca lie；
Her groves embosomed in the morning sky；
Though with her amorous sons the valiant line
Of Java's isle in battle rank combine；
Though poisoned shafts their ponderous quivers store；
Malacca's spicy groves and golden ore；
Great Albuquerque； thy dauntless toils shall crown；〃
live again； though my sober judgment is that Albuquerque and most of
his Portuguese successors were little better than buccaneers。
I like better to think of Francis Xavier passing through the
thoroughfares of what was then the greatest commercial city of the
East； ringing his bell； with the solemn cry； 〃Pray for those who are in
a state of mortal sin。〃 For among the 〃Jews； Turks； infidels； and
heretics〃 who then thronged its busy streets； there were no worse
livers than the roistering soldiers who had followed Albuquerque。
Tradition among the present Portuguese residents says that coarse words
and deeds disappeared from the thoroughfares under his holy influence；
and that little altars were set up in public places； round which the
children sang hymns to Jesus Christ； while the passers…by crossed
themselves and bowed their heads reverently。 Now； the cathedral which
crowns the hill； roofless and ruinous； is only imposing from a
distance； and a part of it is used for the storage of marine or
lighthouse stores under our prosaic and irreverent rule。 Xavier
preached frequently in it and loved it well； yet the walls are
overgrown with parasites； and the floor； under which many prelates and
priests lie； is hideous with matted weeds； which are the haunt of
snakes and lizards。 Thus； in the city which was so dear to Xavier that
he desired to return to it to die （and actually did die on his way
thither）； the only memento of him is the dishonored ruin of the
splendid church in which his body was buried； with all the population
of Malacca following it from the yellow strand up the grass…crowned
hill； bearing tapers。 This wretched ruin is a contrast to the splendid
mausoleum at Goa； where his bones now lie； worthily guarded； in coffins
of silver and gold。
If the Portuguese were little better than buccaneers； the Dutch； who
drove them out； were little better than huckstersmean； mercenary
traders； without redeeming qualities； content to suck the blood of
their provinces and give nothing in return。 I should think that the
colony is glad to be finally rid of them。 The English took possession
of it in 1795； but restored it to the Dutch in 1818； regaining it again
by treaty in 1824； giving Bencoolen； in Sumatra； in exchange for it；
stipulating at the same time that the Dutch were not to meddle with
Malayan affairs； or have any settlement on the Malay Peninsula。 The
ruined cathedral of Notre Dame del Monte is a far more interesting
object than the dull； bald； commonplace； flat…faced； prosaic； Dutch
meeting…house； albeit the latter is in excellent repair。 Even this