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Kong river steamers； massacred the officers and captured the boat。 On
board this great； white； deck…above…deck American steamer there is but
one European passenger beside myself； but there are four hundred and
fifty second…class passengers； Chinamen； with the exception of a few
Parsees； all handsomely dressed； nearly all smoking； and sitting or
lying over the saloon deck up to the saloon doors。 In the steerage
there are fifteen hundred Chinese steerage passengers； all men。 The
Chinese are a noisy people； their language is inharmonious； and the
lower class male voices； at least； are harsh and coarse。 The fifteen
hundred men seem to be all shouting at once； and the din which comes up
through the hatchways is fearful。 This noisy mass of humanity is
practically imprisoned below； for there is a heavy iron grating
securely padlocked over each exit； and a European； 〃armed to the
teeth；〃 stands by each； ready to shoot the first man who attempts to
force it。 In this saloon there is a stand of six rifles with bayonets；
and four revolvers； and； as we started； a man carefully took the
sheaths off the bayonets； and loaded the firearms with ball cartridge。
Canton； January 1； 1879。The Canton river for the ninety miles up here
has nothing interesting about it。 Soon after leaving Hong Kong the
country becomes nearly a dead level； mainly rice…swamps varied by
patches of bananas； with their great fronds torn to tatters by the
prevailing strong breeze。 A very high pagoda marks Whampoa； once a
prosperous port； but now； like Macao； nearly deserted。 An hour after
disgorging three boat loads of Chinamen at Whampoa； we arrived at the
beginning of Canton； but it took more than half an hour of cautious
threading of our way among junks； sampans； house…boats； and
slipper…boats； before we moored to the crowded and shabby wharf。 If my
expectations of Canton had been much raised they would certainly have
been disappointed； for the city stands on a perfectly level site； and
has no marked features within or around it except the broad and
bridgeless tidal river which sweeps through it at a rapid rate。 In the
distance are the White…Cloud hills； which were painted softly in
amethyst on a tender green sky； and nearer are some rocky hills； which
are red at all hours of daylight。 Boats and masts conceal the view of
the city from the river to a great extent； but even when from a vantage
ground it is seen spread out below； it is so densely packed； its
streets are so narrow； and its open spaces so few； that one almost
doubts whether the million and a half of people attributed to it are
really crowded within the narrow area。 From the river； and indeed from
any point of view； Canton is less imposing even than Tokiyo。 Few
objects rise above the monotonous level； and the few are unimpressive。
There are two or three pagodas looking like shot towers。 There is a
double…towered Romish cathedral of great size； not yet finished。 There
is the 〃Nine…storied pagoda。〃 But in truth the most prominent objects
from the river are the 〃godowns〃 of the pawnbrokers； lofty； square
towers of gray brick which dominate the city； play a very important
part in its social economy； and are very far removed from those
establishments with the trinity of gilded balls； which hide themselves
shamefacedly away in our English by…streets。 At one part of the
riverside there are some substantial looking foreign houses among
trees； on the site of the foreign factories of former days； but they
and indeed all else are hidden by a crowd of boats； a town of boats； a
floating suburb。 Indeed； boats are my earliest and strongest
impressions of what on my arrival I was hasty enough to think a mean
city。 It is not only along the sides of the broad Pearl river； but
along the network of innumerable canals and creeks which communicate
with it； that they are found。
These boats； the first marvel of a marvelous city； have come between me
and my landing。 When the steamer had disgorged her two thousand
passengers； Mr。 Mackrill Smith； whose guest I am； brought me in a
bamboo chair； carried by two coolies； through a covered and crowded
street of merchandise six feet wide； to Shameen； the island in the
river on which the foreigners reside； most of the missionary community；
however； living in the buildings on the site of the old factory farther
down。
I am now domiciled on Shameen； a reclaimed mud flat； in the beautiful
house belonging to the firm of Jardine； Matheson & Co。 This island；
which has on the one side the swift flowing Canton river； with its ever
shifting life； has on the other a canal； on which an enormous
population lives in house boats； moored stem and stern； without any
space between them。 A stone bridge with an iron gate gives access into
one of the best parts of Canton； commercially speaking； but all the
business connected with tea； silk； and other productions； which is
carried on by such renowned firms as Jardine； Matheson & Co。； the
Dents； the Deacons； and others； is transacted in these handsome
dwellings of stone or brick； each standing in its tropical garden； with
a wall or ornamental railing or bamboo hedge surrounding it； but
without any outward sign of commerce at all。 The settlement； insular
and exclusive； hears little and knows less of the crowded Chinese city
at its gates。 It reproduces English life as far as possible； and adds a
boundless hospitality of its own； receiving all strangers who are in
any way accredited； and many who are not。 A high sea…wall with a broad
concrete walk； shaded by banyan trees； runs round it； a distance of a
mile and a quarter。 It is quite flat and covered with carefully kept
grass； intersected with concrete walks and banyan avenues； the tropical
gardens of the rich merchants giving variety and color。
The community at present consists of forty…five peopleEnglish；
French； and German。 The establishment of the electric telegraph has not
only favored business； but has enabled some of the senior partners of
the old firms to return home； leaving very junior partners or senior
clerks here； who receive their instructions from England。
Consequently； in some of these large family dwellings there are only
young men 〃keeping bach。〃 There are a pretty English church； a club
bungalow； a book club； lawn tennis and croquet grounds； and a small
hall used for dancing； lectures and amateur theatricals。 No wheeled
vehicle larger than a perambulator ever disturbs the quiet。 People who
go into the city are carried in chairs； or drop down the river in their
luxurious covered boats； but for exercise they mostly walk on the bund；
and play croquet or lawn tennis。 In this glorious weather the island
is very charming。 It is possible to spend the whole year here； as the
tidal breezes modify the moist heat of summer； but the English children
look pale and languid even now。
Canton； January 4。If I were to describe Canton； and had time for it；
my letters would soon swell to the size of Archdeacon Gray's quaint and
fascinating book； 〃Walks in Canton；〃 but I have no time； and must
content myself with brief sketches of two or three things which have
greatly interested me； and of the arrangement an