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colored people； have attracted here thousands of the scum of Canton and
other Chinese cities； to say nothing of a mass of European and Asiatic
ruffianism； much of which is at all times percolating through the
magnificent Victoria prison。
On returning； I was just beginning to unpack when the flames burst out
again。 It was luridly grand in the twilight； the tongues of flame
lapping up house after house； the jets of flame loaded with blazing
fragments； the explosions； each one succeeded by a burst of flame；
carrying high into the air all sorts of projectiles； beams and rafters
paraffine soaked； strewing them over the doomed city； the leaping
flames coming nearer and nearer； the great volumes of smoke；
spark…laden； rolling toward us； all mingling with a din indescribable。
Burning fragments shortly fell on the window…sills； and as the wind was
very strong and setting this way； there seemed so little prospect of
the palace being saved that important papers were sent to the cathedral
and several of the refugees fled with their things to the hills。 At
that moment the wind changed； and the great drift of flame and smoke
was carried in a comparatively harmless direction； the fire was got
well in hand the second time； the official quarter was saved； and
before 10 P。M。 we were able for the first time since my arrival at
mid…day to sit down to food。
Most people seem much upset as well from personal peril as from
sympathy； and all parties and picnics for two days were given up。 Even
the newspapers did not come out this morning； the types of one of them
being in this garden。 The city is now patrolled night and day by strong
parties of marines and Sikhs； for both the disposition to loot and the
facilities for looting are very great。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER II
A Delightful ClimateImprisoned Fever Germs〃Pidjun〃 EnglishHong
Kong HarborProsperity of Hong KongRampageous Criminal
ClassesCircumspice！
THE PALACE； VICTORIA； December 29。
I like and admire Victoria。 It is so pleasant to come in from the dark；
misty； coarse； loud…tongued Pacific； and the December colorlessness of
Japan to bright blue waters crisped by a perpetual north windto the
flaming hills of the Asian mainland； which are red in the early
morning； redder in the glow of noon； and pass away in the glorious
sunsets through ruby and vermilion into an amethyst haze； deepening
into the purple of a tropic night； when the vast expanse of sky which
is seen from this high elevation is literally one blaze of stars。
Though they are by no means to be seen in perfection； there are here
many things that I love；bananas； poinsettias； papayas； tree…ferns；
dendrobiums； dracenas； the scarlet passion…flower； the spurious banyan；
date； sago； and traveler's palms； and numberless other trees and
shrubs； children of the burning sun of the tropics； carefully watered
and tended； but exotics after all。
It is a most delightful winter climate。 There has not been any rain for
three months； nor will there be any for two more； the sky is cloudless；
the air dry and very bracing。 It is cold enough at night for fires；
and autumn clothing can be worn all the day long； for though the sun is
bright and warm； the shade temperature does not rise above 65 degrees；
and exercise is easy and pleasant。 At night； even at a considerable
height； the lowest temperature is 40 degrees。 It is impossible to
praise the climate too highly； with its bright sky； cool dry air； and
five months of rainlessness； but I should write very differently if I
came here four months later； when the mercury ranges from 80 degrees to
90 degrees both by day and night； and the cloudy sky rests ever on the
summits of the island peaks； and everything is moist； and the rain
comes down continually in torrents； rising in hot vapors when the sun
shines； and people become limp and miserable； and their possessions
limp and moldy； and insect life revels； and human existence spent in a
vapor bath becomes burdensome。 But the city is healthy to those who
live temperately。 It has； however； a remarkable peculiarity。 Standing
in and on rock； one fancies that fever would not be one of its
maladies； but the rock itself seems to have imprisoned fever germs in
some past age； for whenever it is quarried or cut into for foundations；
or is disturbed in any way； fever immediately breaks out。
Victoria is a beautiful city。 It reminds me of Genoa； but that most of
its streets are so steep as to be impassable for wheeled vehicles； and
some of them are merely grand flights of stairs； arched over by dense
foliaged trees； so as to look like some tropical； colored； deep
colonnades。 It has covered green balconies with festoons of creepers；
lofty houses； streets narrow enough to exclude much of the sun； people
and costumes of all nations； processions of Portuguese priests and
nuns； and all its many…colored life is seen to full advantage under
this blue sky and brilliant sun。
This house is magnificently situated； and very large and airy。 Part is
the Episcopal Palace； and the rest St。 Paul's College； of which Bishop
Burdon is warden。 The mountainous grounds are beautiful； and the
entrance blazes with poinsettias。 There are no female servants； but
Chinese men perform all the domestic service satisfactorily。 I learn
that for a Chinese servant to appear without his skull…cap is rude； but
to appear with his pig…tail wound round his head instead of pendent； is
a gross insult！ The 〃Pidjun English〃 is revolting； and the most
dignified persons demean themselves by speaking it。 The word 〃pidjun〃
appears to refer generally to business。 〃My pidjun〃 is undoubtedly 〃my
work。〃 How the whole English…speaking community； without distinction of
rank； has come to communicate with the Chinese in this baby talk is
extraordinary。
If you order a fire you say something like this： 〃Fire makee； chop；
chop； here； makee fire number one；〃 chop being quick； and number one
good； or 〃first…class。〃 If a servant tells you that some one has called
he says； 〃One piecey manee here speak missey；〃 and if one asks who he
is； he very likely answers； 〃No sabe；〃 or else； 〃Number one； tink；〃 by
which he implies that the visitor is； in his opinion； a gentleman。
After the courteous； kindly Japanese； the Chinese seem indifferent；
rough and disagreeable； except the well…to…do merchants in the shops；
who are bland； complacent； and courteous。 Their rude stare and the way
they hustle you in the streets and shout their 〃pidjun〃 English at you
is not attractive。 Then they have an ugly habit of speaking of us as
barbarian or foreign devils。 Since I knew the word I have heard it
several times in the streets； and Bishop Burdon says that before his
servants found out that he knew Chinese； they were always speaking of
him and Mrs。 Burdon by this very ugly name。
＇Victoria is； or should be； well known； so I will not describe its
cliques； its boundless hospitalities； its extravagances in living； its
quarrels； its gayeties； its picnics； balls； regattas； races； dinner
parties； lawn tennis parties； amateur theatricals； afternoon teas； and
all its other modes of creating a whirl which passes for pleasure or
occupation。 Rather