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robed in white； with hair unpowdered； holding a parasol lined with
white silk； but herself whiter than the silk； whiter than the lilies
at her feet； whiter than the starry jasmine that climbed the
balustrade；a woman； a Frenchwoman born in Russia； who said as I
approached her； 〃I had almost given you up。〃 She had seen me as I left
the copse。 With what perfection do all women； even the most guileless；
understand the arrangement of a scenic effect？ The movements of the
servants； who were preparing to serve breakfast； showed me that the
meal had been delayed until after the arrival of the diligence。 She
had not ventured to come to meet me。
Is this not our dream；the dream of all lovers of the beautiful；
under whatsoever form it comes； the seraphic beauty that Luini put
into his Marriage of the Virgin； that noble fresco at Sarono； the
beauty that Rubens grasped in the tumult of his 〃Battle of the
Thermodon〃； the beauty that five centuries have elaborated in the
cathedrals of Seville and Milan； the beauty of the Saracens at
Granada； the beauty of Louis XIV。 at Versailles； the beauty of the
Alps； and that of this Limagne in which I stand？
Belonging to the estate； about which there is nothing too princely；
nor yet too financial； where prince and farmer…general have both lived
（which fact serves to explain it）； are four thousand acres of
woodland； a park of some nine hundred acres； the mill； three leased
farms； another immense farm at Conches； and vineyards；the whole
producing a revenue of about seventy thousand francs a year。 Now you
know Les Aigues； my dear fellow； where I have been expected for the
last two weeks； and where I am at this moment； in the chintz…lined
chamber assigned to dearest friends。
Above the park； towards Conches； a dozen little brooks； clear； limpid
streams coming from the Morvan； fall into the pond； after adorning
with their silvery ribbons the valleys of the park and the magnificent
gardens around the chateau。 The name of the place； Les Aigues； comes
from these charming streams of water； the estate was originally called
in the old title…deeds 〃Les Aigues…Vives〃 to distinguish it from
〃Aigues…Mortes〃； but the word 〃Vives〃 has now been dropped。 The pond
empties into the stream； which follows the course of the avenue；
through a wide and straight canal bordered on both sides and along its
whole length by weeping willows。 This canal； thus arched； produces a
delightful effect。 Gliding through it； seated on a thwart of the
little boat； one could fancy one's self in the nave of some great
cathedral； the choir being formed of the main building of the house
seen at the end of it。 When the setting sun casts its orange tones
mingled with amber upon the casements of the chateau； the effect is
that of painted windows。 At the other end of the canal we see Blangy；
the county…town； containing about sixty houses； and the village
church； which is nothing more than a tumble…down building with a
wooden clock…tower which appears to hold up a roof of broken tiles。
One comfortable house and the parsonage are distinguishable； but the
township is a large one；about two hundred scattered houses in all；
those of the village forming as it were the capital。 The roads are
lined with fruit…trees； and numerous little gardens are strewn here
and there；true country gardens with everything in them； flowers；
onions； cabbages and grapevines； currants； and a great deal of manure。
The village has a primitive air； it is rustic； and has that decorative
simplicity which we artists are forever seeking。 In the far distance
is the little town of Soulanges overhanging a vast sheet of water；
like the buildings on the lake of Thune。
When you stroll in the park； which has four gates； each superb in
style； you feel that our mythological Arcadias are flat and stale。
Arcadia is in Burgundy； not in Greece； Arcadia is at Les Aigues and
nowhere else。 A river； made by scores of brooklets； crosses the park
at its lower level with a serpentine movement； giving a dewy freshness
and tranquillity to the scene；an air of solitude； which reminds one
of a convent of Carthusians； and all the more because； on an
artificial island in the river； is a hermitage in ruins； the interior
elegance of which is worthy of the luxurious financier who constructed
it。 Les Aigues； my dear Nathan； once belonged to that Bouret who spent
two millions to receive Louis XV。 on a single occasion under his roof。
How many ardent passions； how many distinguished minds； how many
fortunate circumstances have contributed to make this beautiful place
what it is！ A mistress of Henri IV。 rebuilt the chateau where it now
stands。 The favorite of the Great Dauphin； Mademoiselle Choin （to whom
Les Aigues was given）； added a number of farms to it。 Bouret furnished
the house with all the elegancies of Parisian homes for an Opera
celebrity； and to him Les Aigues owes the restoration of its ground
floor in the style Louis XV。
I have often stood rapt in admiration at the beauty of the dining…
room。 The eye is first attracted to the ceiling； painted in fresco in
the Italian manner； where lightsome arabesques are frolicking。 Female
forms； in stucco ending in foliage； support at regular distances
corbeils of fruit； from which spring the garlands of the ceiling。
Charming paintings； the work of unknown artists； fill the panels
between the female figures； representing the luxuries of the table；
boar's…heads； salmon； rare shell…fish； and all edible things；which
fantastically suggest men and women and children； and rival the
whimsical imagination of the Chinese；the people who best understand；
to my thinking at least； the art of decoration。 The mistress of the
house finds a bell…wire beneath her feet to summon servants； who enter
only when required； disturbing no interviews and overhearing no
secrets。 The panels above the doorways represent gay scenes； all the
embrasures； both of doors and windows； are in marble mosaics。 The room
is heated from below。 Every window looks forth on some delightful
view。
This room communicates with a bath…room on one side and on the other
with a boudoir which opens into the salon。 The bath…room is lined with
Sevres tiles； painted in monochrome； the floor is mosaic； and the bath
marble。 An alcove； hidden by a picture painted on copper； which turns
on a pivot； contains a couch in gilt wood of the truest Pompadour。 The
ceiling is lapis…lazuli starred with gold。 The tiles are painted from
designs by Boucher。 Bath； table and love are therefore closely united。
After the salon； which； I should tell you； my dear fellow； exhibits
the magnificence of the Louis XIV。 manner； you enter a fine billiard…
room unrivalled so far as I know in Paris itself。 The entrance to this
suite of ground…floor apartments is through a semi…circular
antechamber； at the lower end of which is a fairy…like staircase；
lighted from above； which leads to other parts of the house； all built
at variou