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copse； within which the roads meet at a cross…ways； in the centre of
which stands a stone obelisk； for all the world like an eternal
exclamation mark。 From the crevices between the foundation stones of
this erection； which is topped by a spiked ball （what an idea！）； hang
flowering plants； blue or yellow according to the season。 Les Aigues
must certainly have been built by a woman； or for a woman； no man
would have had such dainty ideas； the architect no doubt had his cue。
Passing through the little wood placed there as sentinel； I came upon
a charming declivity； at the foot of which foamed and gurgled a little
brook； which I crossed on a culvert of mossy stones； superb in color；
the prettiest of all the mosaics which time manufactures。 The avenue
continues by the brookside up a gentle rise。 In the distance； the
first tableau is now seen；a mill and its dam； a causeway and trees；
linen laid out to dry； the thatched cottage of the miller； his
fishing…nets； and the tank where the fish are kept；not to speak of
the miller's boy； who was already watching me。 No matter where you are
in the country； however solitary you may think yourself； you are
certain to be the focus of the two eyes of a country bumpkin； a
laborer rests on his hoe； a vine…dresser straightens his bent back； a
little goat…girl； or shepherdess； or milkmaid climbs a willow to stare
at you。
Presently the avenue merges into an alley of acacias； which leads to
an iron railing made in the days when iron…workers fashioned those
slender filagrees which are not unlike the copies set us by a writing…
master。 On either side of the railing is a ha…ha； the edges of which
bristle with angry spikes；regular porcupines in metal。 The railing
is closed at both ends by two porter's…lodges； like those of the
palace at Versailles； and the gateway is surmounted by colossal vases。
The gold of the arabesques is ruddy； for rust has added its tints； but
this entrance； called 〃the gate of the Avenue；〃 which plainly shows
the hand of the Great Dauphin （to whom； indeed； Les Aigues owes it）；
seems to me none the less beautiful for that。 At the end of each ha…ha
the walls of the park； built of rough…hewn stone； begin。 These stones；
set in a mortar made of reddish earth； display their variegated
colors； the warm yellows of the silex； the white of the lime
carbonates； the russet browns of the sandstone； in many a fantastic
shape。 As you first enter it； the park is gloomy； the walls are hidden
by creeping plants and by trees that for fifty years have heard no
sound of axe。 One might think it a virgin forest； made primeval again
through some phenomenon granted exclusively to forests。 The trunks of
the trees are swathed with lichen which hangs from one to another。
Mistletoe； with its viscid leaves； droops from every fork of the
branches where moisture settles。 I have found gigantic ivies； wild
arabesques which flourish only at fifty leagues from Paris； here where
land does not cost enough to make one sparing of it。 The landscape on
such free lines covers a great deal of ground。 Nothing is smoothed
off； rakes are unknown； ruts and ditches are full of water； frogs are
tranquilly delivered of their tadpoles； the woodland flowers bloom；
and the heather is as beautiful as that I have seen on your mantle…
shelf in January in the elegant beau…pot sent by Florine。 This mystery
is intoxicating； it inspires vague desires。 The forest odors； beloved
of souls that are epicures of poesy； who delight in the tiny mosses；
the noxious fungi； the moist mould； the willows； the balsams； the wild
thyme； the green waters of a pond； the golden star of the yellow
water…lily；the breath of all such vigorous propagations came to my
nostrils and filled me with a single thought； was it their soul？ I
seemed to see a rose…tinted gown floating along the winding alley。
The path ended abruptly in another copse； where birches and poplars
and all the quivering trees palpitated；an intelligent family with
graceful branches and elegant bearing； the trees of a love as free！ It
was from this point； my dear fellow； that I saw a pond covered with
the white water…lily and other plants with broad flat leaves and
narrow slender ones； on which lay a boat painted white and black； as
light as a nut…shell and dainty as the wherry of a Seine boatman。
Beyond rose the chateau； built in 1560； of fine red brick； with stone
courses and copings； and window…frames in which the sashes were of
small leaded panes （O Versailles！）。 The stone is hewn in diamond
points； but hollowed； as in the Ducal Palace at Venice on the facade
toward the Bridge of Sighs。 There are no regular lines about the
castle except in the centre building； from which projects a stately
portico with double flights of curving steps； and round balusters
slender at their base and broadening at the middle。 The main building
is surrounded by clock…towers and sundry modern turrets； with
galleries and vases more or less Greek。 No harmony there； my dear
Nathan！ These heterogeneous erections are wrapped； so to speak； by
various evergreen trees whose branches shed their brown needles upon
the roofs； nourishing the lichen and giving tone to the cracks and
crevices where the eye delights to wander。 Here you see the Italian
pine； the stone pine； with its red bark and its majestic parasol； here
a cedar two hundred years old； weeping willows； a Norway spruce； and a
beech which overtops them all； and there； in front of the main tower；
some very singular shrubs；a yew trimmed in a way that recalls some
long…decayed garden of old France； and magnolias with hortensias at
their feet。 In short； the place is the Invalides of the heroes of
horticulture； once the fashion and now forgotten； like all other
heroes。
A chimney； with curious copings； which was sending forth great volumes
of smoke； assured me that this delightful scene was not an opera
setting。 A kitchen reveals human beings。 Now imagine ME； Blondet； who
shiver as if in the polar regions at Saint…Cloud； in the midst of this
glowing Burgundian climate。 The sun sends down its warmest rays； the
king…fisher watches on the shores of the pond； the cricket chirps； the
grain…pods burst； the poppy drops its morphia in glutinous tears； and
all are clearly defined on the dark…blue ether。 Above the ruddy soil
of the terraces flames that joyous natural punch which intoxicates the
insects and the flowers and dazzles our eyes and browns our faces。 The
grape is beading； its tendrils fall in a veil of threads whose
delicacy puts to shame the lace…makers。 Beside the house blue
larkspur； nasturtium； and sweet…peas are blooming。 From a distance
orange…trees and tuberoses scent the air。 After the poetic exhalations
of the woods （a gradual preparation） came the delectable pastilles of
this botanic seraglio。
Standing on the portico； like the queen of flowers； behold a woman
robed in white； with hair unpowdered； holding a parasol lined with
white silk； but he