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stretched their soft grey foliage to the bank； cranes flew in a
triangle in the clear sky； and the cry of unseen herons was heard from
the sedges。 Far as the eye could reach； the river rolled its broad
green waters o'er which white sails； like the wings of birds； glided；
and here and there on the shores； a white house shone out。 A light
mist floated along the banks； and from out the shadow of the islands；
which were laden with palms； flowers； and fruits； came noisy flocks of
ducks； geese； flamingoes； and teal。 To the left； the grassy valley
extended to the desert its fields and orchards in joyful abundance；
the sun shone on the yellow wheat； and the earth exhaled forth its
fecundity in odorous wafts。 At this sight； Paphnutius fell on his
knees； and cried
〃Blessed be the Lord； who has given a happy issue to my journey。 O
God； who spreadest Thy dew upon the fig trees of the Arsiniote； pour
Thy grace upon Thais； whom Thou hast formed with Thy love； as Thou
hast the flowers and trees of the field。 May she； by Thy loving care；
flourish like a sweet…scented rose in the heavenly Jerusalem。〃
And every time that he saw a tree covered with blossom； or a bird of
brilliant plumage； he thought of Thais。 Keeping along the left arm of
the river and through a fertile and populous district； he reached； in
a few days； the city of Alexandria； which the Greeks have surnamed the
Beautiful and the Golden。 The sun had risen an hour； when he beheld；
from the top of a hill； the vast city； the roofs of which glittered in
the rosy light。 He stopped； and folded his arms on his breast。
〃There； then；〃 he said； 〃is the delightful spot where I was born in
sin； the bright air where I breathed poisonous perfumes； the sea of
pleasure where I heard the songs of the sirens。 There is my cradle；
after the flesh； my native landin the parlance of the men of these
days！ A rich cradle； an illustrious country； in the judgment of men！
It is natural that thy children should reverence thee like a mother；
Alexandria； and I was begotten in thy magnificently adorned breast。
But the ascetic despises nature； the mystic scorns appearances； the
Christian regards his native land as a place of exile； the monk is not
of this earth。 I have turned away my heart from loving thee；
Alexandria。 I hate thee！ I hate thee for thy riches； thy science； thy
pleasures； and thy beauty。 Be accursed； temple of demons！ Lewd couch
of the Gentiles； tainted pulpit of Arian heresy； be thou accursed！ And
thou； winged son of heaven who led the holy hermit Anthony； our
father； when he came from the depths of the desert； and entered into
the citadel of idolatry to strengthen the faith of believers and the
confidence of martyrs； beautiful angel of the Lord； invisible child；
first breath of God； fly thou before me； and cleanse； by the beating
of thy wings； the corrupted air I am about to breathe amongst the
princes of darkness of this world！〃
Having thus spoken； he resumed his journey。 He entered the city by the
Gate of the Sun。 This gate was a handsome structure of stone。 In the
shadow of its arch； crowded some poor wretches； who offered lemons and
figs for sale； or with many groans and lamentations； begged for an
obolus。
An old woman in rags； who was kneeling there； seized the monk's
cassock； kissed it； and said
〃Man of the Lord； bless me； that God may bless me。 I have suffered
many things in this world that I may have joys in the world to come。
You come from God； O holy man； and that is why the dust of your feet
is more precious than gold。〃
〃The Lord be praised！〃 said Paphnutius； and with his half…closed hand
he made the sign of redemption on the old woman's head。
But hardly had he gone twenty paces down the street； than a band of
children began to jeer at him； and throw stones； crying
〃Oh； the wicked monk！ He is blacker than an ape； and more bearded than
a goat！ He is a skulker！ Why not hang him in an orchard； like a wooden
Priapus； to frighten the birds？ But no； he would draw down the hail on
the apple…blossom。 He brings bad luck。 To the ravens with the monk！ to
the ravens！〃 and stones mingled with the cries。
〃My God； bless these poor children！〃 murmured Paphnutius。
And he pursued his way； thinking。
〃I was worshipped by the old woman； and hated and despised by these
children。 Thus the same object is appreciated differently by men who
are uncertain in their judgment and liable to error。 It must be owned
that； for a Gentile； old Timocles was not devoid of sense。 Though
blind； he knew he was deprived of light。 His reasoning was much better
than that of these idolaters； who cry from the depths of their thick
darkness； 'I see the day！' Everything in this world is mirage and
moving sand。 God alone is steadfast。〃
He passed through the city with rapid steps。 After ten years of
absence he would still recognise every stone； and every stone was to
him a stone of reproach that recalled a sin。 For that reason he struck
his naked feet roughly against the kerb…stones of the wide street； and
rejoiced to see the bloody marks of his wounded feet。 Leaving on his
left the magnificent portico of the Temple of Serapis； he entered a
road lined with splendid mansions； which seemed to be drowsy with
perfumes。 Pines； maples； and larches raised their heads above the red
cornices and golden acroteria。 Through the half…open doors could be
seen bronze statues in marble vestibules； and fountains playing amidst
foliage。 No noise troubled the stillness of these quiet retreats。 Only
the distant strains of a flute could be heard。 The monk stopped before
a house； rather small； but of noble proportions； and supported by
columns as graceful as young girls。 It was ornamented with bronze
busts of the most celebrated Greek philosophers。
He recognised Plato； Socrates； Aristotle； Epicurus； and Zeno； and
having knocked with the hammer against the door； he waited； wrapped in
meditation。
〃It is vanity to glorify in metal these false sages； their lies are
confounded； their souls are lost in hell； and even the famous Plato
himself； who filled the earth with his eloquence； now disputes with
the devils。〃
A slave opened the door； and seeing a man with bare feet standing on
the mosaic threshold； said to him roughly
〃Go and beg elsewhere； stupid monk； or I will drive you away with a
stick。〃
〃Brother；〃 replied the Abbott of Antinoe； 〃all that I ask is that you
conduct me to your master； Nicias。〃
The slave replied； more angrily than before
〃My master does not see dogs like you。〃
〃My son；〃 said Paphnutius； 〃will you please do what I ask； and tell
your master that I desire to see him。
〃Get out； vile beggar！〃 cried the porter furiously； and he raised his
stick and struck the holy man； who； with his arms crossed upon his
breast； received unmovedly the blow； which fell full in his face； and
then repeated gently
〃Do as I ask you； my son； I beg。〃
The porter tremblingly murmured
〃Who is this man who is not afraid of suffering？〃
And he ran and told his master。
Nicias had just left the bath。 Two pretty slave girls were scraping
him with strigils。 He was a pleasant…looking man； with a kind smile。
There was