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is styled in Welsh Castell y Waen； or the Castle of the Meadow； we
started on foot about ten o'clock of a fine bright morning；
attended by John Jones。 There are two roads from Llangollen to
Chirk； one the low or post road； and the other leading over the
Berwyn。 We chose the latter。 We passed by the Yew Cottage； which
I have described on a former occasion； and began to ascend the
mountain； making towards its north…eastern corner。 The road at
first was easy enough； but higher up became very steep； and
somewhat appalling； being cut out of the side of the hill which
shelves precipitously down towards the valley of the Dee。 Near the
top of the mountain were three lofty beech…trees growing on the
very verge of the precipice。 Here the road for about twenty yards
is fenced on its dangerous side by a wall； parts of which are built
between the stems of the trees。 Just beyond the wall a truly noble
prospect presented itself to our eyes。 To the north were bold
hills； their sides and skirts adorned with numerous woods and white
farm…houses； a thousand feet below us was the Dee and its wondrous
Pont y Cysultau。 John Jones said that if certain mists did not
intervene we might descry 〃the sea of Liverpool〃； and perhaps the
only thing wanting to make the prospect complete； was that sea of
Liverpool。 We were； however； quite satisfied with what we saw； and
turning round the corner of the hill； reached its top； where for a
considerable distance there is level ground； and where； though at a
great altitude； we found ourselves in a fair and fertile region；
and amidst a scene of busy rural life。 We saw fields and
inclosures； and here and there corn…stacks； some made； and others
not yet completed； about which people were employed； and waggons
and horses moving。 Passing over the top of the hill； we began to
descend the southern side； which was far less steep than the one we
had lately surmounted。 After a little way； the road descended
through a wood； which John Jones told us was the beginning of 〃the
Park of Biddulph。〃
〃There is plenty of game in this wood；〃 said he； 〃pheasant cocks
and pheasant hens； to say nothing of hares and coneys； and in the
midst of it there is a space sown with a particular kind of corn
for the support of the pheasant hens and pheasant cocks； which in
the shooting…season afford pleasant sport for Biddulph and his
friends。〃
Near the foot of the descent； just where the road made a turn to
the east； we passed by a building which stood amidst trees； with a
pond and barns near it。
〃This；〃 said John Jones； 〃is the house where the bailiff lives who
farms and buys and sells for Biddulph； and fattens the beeves and
swine； and the geese； ducks； and other poultry which Biddulph
consumes at his table。〃
The scenery was now very lovely； consisting of a mixture of hill
and dale； open space and forest； in fact the best kind of park
scenery。 We caught a glimpse of a lake in which John Jones said
there were generally plenty of swans； and presently saw the castle；
which stands on a green grassy slope； from which it derives its
Welsh name of Castell y Waen； gwaen in the Cumrian language
signifying a meadow or uninclosed place。 It fronts the west； the
direction from which we were coming； on each side it shows five
towers； of which the middlemost； which protrudes beyond the rest；
and at the bottom of which is the grand gate； is by far the
bulkiest。 A noble edifice it looked； and to my eye bore no slight
resemblance to Windsor Castle。
Seeing a kind of ranger； we inquired of him what it was necessary
for us to do； and by his direction proceeded to the southern side
of the castle； and rung the bell at a small gate。 The southern
side had a far more antique appearance than the western； huge
towers with small windows； and partly covered with ivy； frowned
down upon us。 A servant making his appearance； I inquired whether
we could see the house； he said we could； and that the housekeeper
would show it to us in a little time but that at present she was
engaged。 We entered a large quadrangular court： on the left…hand
side was a door and staircase leading into the interior of the
building； and farther on was a gateway； which was no doubt the
principal entrance from the park。 On the eastern side of the
spacious court was a kennel； chained to which was an enormous dog；
partly of the bloodhound； partly of the mastiff species； who
occasionally uttered a deep magnificent bay。 As the sun was hot；
we took refuge from it under the gateway； the gate of which； at the
further end； towards the park； was closed。 Here my wife and
daughter sat down on a small brass cannon； seemingly a six…pounder；
which stood on a very dilapidated carriage； from the appearance of
the gun； which was of an ancient form； and very much battered； and
that of the carriage； I had little doubt that both had been in the
castle at the time of the siege。 As my two loved ones sat； I
walked up and down； recalling to my mind all I had heard and read
in connection with this castle。 I thought of its gallant defence
against the men of Oliver； I thought of its roaring hospitality in
the time of the fourth Sir Thomas； and I thought of the many
beauties who had been born in its chambers； had danced in its
halls； had tripped across its court； and had subsequently given
heirs to illustrious families。
At last we were told that she housekeeper was waiting for us。 The
housekeeper； who was a genteel； good…looking young woman； welcomed
us at the door which led into the interior of the house。 After we
had written our names； she showed us into a large room or hall on
the right…hand side on the ground floor； where were some helmets
and ancient halberts； and also some pictures of great personages。
The floor was of oak； and so polished and slippery； that walking
upon it was attended with some danger。 Wishing that John Jones；
our faithful attendant； who remained timidly at the doorway； should
participate with us in the wonderful sights we were about to see； I
inquired of the housekeeper whether he might come with us。 She
replied with a smile that it was not the custom to admit guides
into the apartments； but that he might come； provided he chose to
take off his shoes； adding； that the reason she wished him to take
off his shoes was； an apprehension that if he kept them on he would
injure the floors with their rough nails。 She then went to John
Jones； and told him in English that he might attend us； provided he
took off his shoes； poor John； however； only smiled and said 〃Dim
Saesneg！〃
〃You must speak to him in your native language；〃 said I； 〃provided
you wish him to understand you … he has no English。〃
〃I am speaking to him in my native language；〃 said the young
housekeeper； with another smile … 〃and if he has no English； I have
no Welsh。〃
〃Then you are English？〃 said I。
〃Yes；〃 she replied； 〃a native of London。〃
〃Dear me；〃 said I。 〃Well； it's no bad thing to be English after
all； and as for not speaking Welsh； there are many in Wales who
would be glad to have muc