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of a village； I went in。
A respectable…looking man and woman were seated at tea at a table
in a nice clean kitchen。 I sat down on a chair near the table； and
called for ale … the ale was brought me in a jug … I drank some；
put the jug on the table； and began to discourse with the people in
Welsh。 A handsome dog was seated on the ground； suddenly it laid
one of its paws on its master's knee。
〃Down； Perro；〃 said he。
〃Perro！〃 said I； 〃why do you call the dog Perro？〃
〃We call him Perro；〃 said the man； 〃because his name is Perro。〃
〃But how came you to give him that name？〃 said I。
〃We did not give it to him；〃 said the man … 〃he bore that name when
he came into our hands； a farmer gave him to us when he was very
young； and told us his name was Perro。〃
〃And how came the farmer to call him Perro？〃 said I。
〃I don't know；〃 said the man … 〃why do you ask？〃
〃Perro；〃 said I； 〃is a Spanish word； and signifies a dog in
general。 I am rather surprised that a dog in the mountains of
Wales should be called by the Spanish word for dog。〃 I fell into a
fit of musing。 〃How Spanish words are diffused！ Wherever you go
you will find some Spanish word or other in use。 I have heard
Spanish words used by Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers … I
have this day heard a Spanish word in the mountains of Wales； and I
have no doubt that were I to go to Iceland I should find Spanish
words used there。 How can I doubt it； when I reflect that more
than six hundred years ago； one of the words to denote a bad woman
was Spanish。 In the oldest of Icelandic domestic Sagas；
Skarphedin； the son of Nial the seer； called Hallgerdr； widow of
Gunnar； a puta … and that word so maddened Hallgerdr that she never
rested till she had brought about his destruction。 Now； why this
preference everywhere for Spanish words over those of every other
language？ I never heard French words or German words used by
Russian mujiks and Turkish fig…gatherers。 I question whether I
should find any in Iceland forming part of the vernacular。 I
certainly never found a French or even a German word in an old
Icelandic Saga。 Why this partiality everywhere for Spanish words？
the question is puzzling； at any rate it puts me out … 〃
〃Yes； it puts me out！〃 I exclaimed aloud； striking my fist on the
table with a vehemence which caused the good folks to start half up
from their seats。 Before they could say anything； however； a
vehicle drove up to the door； and a man getting out came into the
room。 He had a glazed hat on his head； and was dressed something
like the guard of a mail。 He touched his hat to me； and called for
a glass of whiskey。 I gave him the sele of the evening and entered
into conversation with him in English。 In the course of discourse
I learned that he was the postman； and was going his rounds in his
cart … he was more than respectful to me； he was fawning and
sycophantic。 The whiskey was brought； and he stood with the glass
in his hand。 Suddenly he began speaking Welsh to the people；
before； however； he had uttered two sentences the woman lifted her
hand with an alarmed air； crying 〃Hush！ he understands。〃 The
fellow was turning me to ridicule。 I flung my head back； closed my
eyes； opened my mouth and laughed aloud。 The fellow stood aghast；
his hand trembled； and he spilt the greater part of the whiskey
upon the ground。 At the end of about half a minute I got up； asked
what I had to pay； and on being told twopence； I put down the
money。 Then going up to the man I put my right forefinger very
near to his nose； and said 〃Dwy o iaith dwy o wyneb； two languages；
two faces； friend！〃 Then after leering at him for a moment I
wished the people of the house good…evening and departed。
Walking rapidly on towards the east I soon drew near the
termination of the valley。 The valley terminates in a deep gorge
or pass between Mount Eilio … which by…the…bye is part of the chine
of Snowdon … and Pen Drws Coed。 The latter； that couchant elephant
with its head turned to the north…east； seems as if it wished to
bar the pass with its trunk； by its trunk I mean a kind of jaggy
ridge which descends down to the road。 I entered the gorge；
passing near a little waterfall which with much noise runs down the
precipitous side of Mount Eilio； presently I came to a little mill
by the side of a brook running towards the east。 I asked the
miller…woman； who was standing near the mill； with her head turned
towards the setting sun； the name of the mill and the stream。 〃The
mill is called 'The mill of the river of Lake Cwellyn；'〃 said she；
〃and the river is called the river of Lake Cwellyn。〃
〃And who owns the land？〃 said I。
〃Sir Richard；〃 said she。 〃I Sir Richard yw yn perthyn y tir。 Mr
Williams； however； possesses some part of Mount Eilio。〃
〃And who is Mr Williams？〃 said I。
〃Who is Mr Williams？〃 said the miller's wife。 〃Ho； ho！ what a
stranger you must be to ask me who is Mr Williams。〃
I smiled and passed on。 The mill was below the level of the road；
and its wheel was turned by the water of a little conduit supplied
by the brook at some distance above the mill。 I had observed
similar conduits employed for similar purposes in Cornwall。 A
little below the mill was a weir； and a little below the weir the
river ran frothing past the extreme end of the elephant's snout。
Following the course of the river I at last emerged with it from
the pass into a valley surrounded by enormous mountains。 Extending
along it from west to east； and occupying its entire southern part
lay an oblong piece of water； into which the streamlet of the pass
discharged itself。 This was one of the many beautiful lakes； which
a few days before I had seen from the Wyddfa。 As for the Wyddfa I
now beheld it high above me in the north…east looking very grand
indeed； shining like a silver helmet whilst catching the glories of
the setting sun。
I proceeded slowly along the road； the lake below me on my right
hand； whilst the shelvy side of Snowdon rose above me on the left。
The evening was calm and still； and no noise came upon my ear save
the sound of a cascade falling into the lake from a black mountain；
which frowned above it on the south； and cast a gloomy shadow far
over it。
This cataract was in the neighbourhood of a singular…looking rock；
projecting above the lake from the mountain's side。 I wandered a
considerable way without meeting or seeing a single human being。
At last when I had nearly gained the eastern end of the valley I
saw two men seated on the side of the hill； on the verge of the
road； in the vicinity of a house which stood a little way up the
hill。 The lake here was much wider than I had hitherto seen it；
for the huge mountain on the south had terminated and the lake
expanded considerably in that quarter； having instead of the black
mountain a beautiful hill beyond it。
I quickened my steps and soon came up to the two individuals。 One
was an elderly man； dressed in a smock frock and with a hairy cap
on his head。 The other was much younger； wore a hat； and was
dres