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bore that of Melin Heli； or the mill of the salt pool； and that
slates were exported from thence； which came from quarries close
by。
Having finished my ale； I bade the company adieu and quitted Port
Dyn Norwig； one of the most thoroughly Welsh places I had seen； for
during the whole time I was in it； I heard no words of English
uttered； except the two or three spoken by myself。 In about an
hour I reached Caernarvon。
The road from Bangor to Caernarvon is very good and the scenery
interesting … fine hills border it on the left； or south…east； and
on the right at some distance is the Menai with Anglesey beyond it。
Not far from Caernarvon a sandbank commences； extending for miles
up the Menai； towards Bangor； and dividing the strait into two。
I went to the Castle Inn which fronts the square or market…place；
and being shown into a room ordered some brandy…and…water； and sat
down。 Two young men were seated in the room。 I spoke to them and
received civil answers； at which I was rather astonished； as I
found by the tone of their voices that they were English。 The air
of one was far superior to that of the other； and with him I was
soon in conversation。 In the course of discourse he informed me
that being a martyr to ill…health he had come from London to Wales；
hoping that change of air； and exercise on the Welsh hills； would
afford him relief； and that his friend had been kind enough to
accompany him。 That he had been about three weeks in Wales； had
taken all the exercise that he could； but that he was still very
unwell； slept little and had no appetite。 I told him not to be
discouraged； but to proceed in the course which he had adopted till
the end of summer； by which time I thought it very probable that he
would be restored to his health； as he was still young。 At these
words of mine a beam of hope brightened his countenance； and he
said that he had no other wish than to regain his health； and that
if he did he should be the happiest of men。 The intense wish of
the poor young man for health caused me to think how insensible I
had hitherto been to the possession of the greatest of all
terrestrial blessings。 I had always had the health of an elephant；
but I never remembered to have been sensible to the magnitude of
the blessing or in the slightest degree grateful to God who gave
it。 I shuddered to think how I should feel if suddenly deprived of
my health。 Far worse； no doubt； than that poor invalid。 He was
young； and in youth there is hope … but I was no longer young。 At
last； however； I thought that if God took away my health He might
so far alter my mind that I might be happy even without health； or
the prospect of it； and that reflection made me quite comfortable。
CHAPTER XLIV
National School … The Young Preacher … Pont Bettws … Spanish Words
… Two Tongues； Two Faces … The Elephant's Snout … Llyn Cwellyn …
The Snowdon Ranger … My House … Castell y Cidwm … Descent to Beth
Gelert。
IT might be about three o'clock in the afternoon when I left
Caernarvon for Beth Gelert； distant about thirteen miles。 I
journeyed through a beautiful country of hill and dale； woods and
meadows； the whole gilded by abundance of sunshine。 After walking
about an hour without intermission I reached a village； and asked a
man the name of it。
〃Llan … something；〃 he replied。
As he was standing before a long building； through the open door of
which a sound proceeded like that of preaching； I asked him what
place it was； and what was going on in it； and received for answer
that it was the National School； and that there was a clergyman
preaching in it。 I then asked if the clergyman was of the Church；
and on learning that he was； I forthwith entered the building；
where in one end of a long room I saw a young man in a white
surplice preaching from a desk to about thirty or forty people； who
were seated on benches before him。 I sat down and listened。 The
young man preached with great zeal and fluency。 The sermon was a
very seasonable one； being about the harvest； and in it things
temporal and spiritual were very happily blended。 The part of the
sermon which I heard … I regretted that I did not hear the whole …
lasted about five…and…twenty minutes： a hymn followed； and then
the congregation broke up。 I inquired the name of the young man
who preached； and was told that it was Edwards； and that he came
from Caernarvon。 The name of the incumbent of the parish was
Thomas。
Leaving the village of the harvest sermon I proceeded on my way
which lay to the south…east。 I was now drawing nigh to the
mountainous district of Eryri； a noble hill called Mount Eilio
appeared before me to the north； an immense mountain called Pen
Drws Coed lay over against it on the south； just like a couchant
elephant with its head lower than the top of its back。 After a
time I entered a most beautiful sunny valley； and presently came to
a bridge over a pleasant stream running in the direction of the
south。 As I stood upon that bridge I almost fancied myself in
Paradise； everything looked so beautiful or grand … green； sunny
meadows lay all around me； intersected by the brook； the waters of
which ran with tinkling laughter over a shingly bottom。 Noble
Eilio to the north； enormous Pen Drws Coed to the south； a tall
mountain far beyond them to the east。 〃I never was in such a
lovely spot！〃 I cried to myself in a perfect rapture。 〃Oh； how
glad I should be to learn the name of this bridge； standing on
which I have had 'Heaven opened to me；' as my old friends the
Spaniards used to say。〃 Scarcely had I said these words when I
observed a man and a woman coming towards the bridge in the
direction in which I was bound。 I hastened to meet them in the
hope of obtaining information。 They were both rather young； and
were probably a couple of sweethearts taking a walk or returning
from meeting。 The woman was a few steps in advance of the man；
seeing that I was about to address her； she averted her head and
quickened her steps； and before I had completed the question； which
I put to her in Welsh； she had bolted past me screaming 〃Ah Dim
Seasneg；〃 and was several yards distant。
I then addressed myself to the man who had stopped； asking him the
name of the bridge。
〃Pont Bettws；〃 he replied。
〃And what may be the name of the river？〃 said I。
〃Afon … something；〃 said he。
And on my thanking him he went forward to the woman who was waiting
for him by the bridge。
〃Is that man Welsh or English？〃 I heard her say when he had
rejoined her。
〃I don't know；〃 said the man … 〃he was civil enough； why were you
such a fool？〃
〃Oh； I thought he would speak to me in English；〃 said the woman；
〃and the thought of that horrid English puts me into such a
flutter； you know I can't speak a word of it。〃
They proceeded on their way and I proceeded on mine； and presently
coming to a little inn on the left side of the way； at the entrance
of a village； I went in。
A respectable…looking man and woman were seated at tea at a table
in a nice clean kitchen。 I s