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to indulge in it at a proper time and place。 But there is a time
and place for everything； and sometimes the warmest admirer of ale
would prefer the lymph of the hill…side fountain to the choicest
ale that ever foamed in tankard from the cellars of Holkham。 Here
are the lines most faithfully rendered：…
〃The wild wine of nature；
Honey…like in its taste；
The genial； fair； thin element
Filtering through the sands；
Which is sweeter than cinnamon；
And is well known to us hunters。
O； that eternal； healing draught；
Which comes from under the earth；
Which contains abundance of good
And costs no money！〃
Returning to the hotel I satisfied my guide and dined。 After
dinner I trifled agreeably with my brandy…and…water till it was
near seven o'clock； when I paid my bill； thought of the waiter and
did not forget Father Boots。 I then took my departure； receiving
and returning bows； and walking to the station got into a first…
class carriage and soon found myself at Bangor。
CHAPTER XLIII
The Inn at Bangor … Port Dyn Norwig … Sea Serpent … Thoroughly
Welsh Place … Blessing of Health。
I WENT to the same inn at Bangor at which I had been before。 It
was Saturday night and the house was thronged with people who had
arrived by train from Manchester and Liverpool； with the intention
of passing the Sunday in the Welsh town。 I took tea in an immense
dining or ball…room； which was； however； so crowded with guests
that its walls literally sweated。 Amidst the multitude I felt
quite solitary … my beloved ones had departed for Llangollen； and
there was no one with whom I could exchange a thought or a word of
kindness。 I addressed several individuals； and in every instance
repented； from some I got no answers； from others what was worse
than no answers at all … in every countenance near me suspicion；
brutality； or conceit； was most legibly imprinted … I was not
amongst Welsh； but the scum of manufacturing England。
Every bed in the house was engaged … the people of the house；
however； provided me a bed at a place which they called the
cottage； on the side of a hill in the outskirts of the town。 There
I passed the night comfortably enough。 At about eight in the
morning I arose； returned to the inn； breakfasted； and departed for
Beth Gelert by way of Caernarvon。
It was Sunday； and I had originally intended to pass the day at
Bangor； and to attend divine service twice at the Cathedral； but I
found myself so very uncomfortable； owing to the crowd of
interlopers； that I determined to proceed on my journey without
delay； making up my mind； however； to enter the first church I
should meet in which service was being performed； for it is really
not good to travel on the Sunday without going into a place of
worship。
The day was sunny and fiercely hot； as all the days had lately
been。 In about an hour I arrived at Port Dyn Norwig： it stood on
the right side of the road。 The name of this place； which I had
heard from the coachman who drove my family and me to Caernarvon
and Llanberis a few days before； had excited my curiosity with
respect to it； as it signifies the Port of the Norway man； so I now
turned aside to examine it。 〃No doubt；〃 said I to myself； 〃the
place derives its name from the piratical Danes and Norse having
resorted to it in the old time。〃 Port Dyn Norwig seems to consist
of a creek； a staithe； and about a hundred houses： a few small
vessels were lying at the staithe。 I stood about ten minutes upon
it staring about； and then feeling rather oppressed by the heat of
the sun； I bent my way to a small house which bore a sign； and from
which a loud noise of voices proceeded。 〃Have you good ale？〃 said
I in English to a good…looking buxom dame of about forty； whom I
saw in the passage。
She looked at me but returned no answer。
〃Oes genoch cwrw da？〃 said I。
〃Oes！〃 she replied with a smile； and opening the door of a room on
the left…hand bade me walk in。
I entered the room； six or seven men； seemingly sea…faring people；
were seated drinking and talking vociferously in Welsh。 Their
conversation was about the sea…serpent： some believed in the
existence of such a thing； others did not。 After a little time one
said； 〃Let us ask this gentleman for his opinion。〃
〃And what would be the use of asking him？〃 said another； 〃we have
only Cumraeg； and he has only Saesneg。〃
〃I have a little broken Cumraeg； at the service of this good
company；〃 said I。 〃With respect to the snake of the sea I beg
leave to say that I believe in the existence of such a creature；
and am surprised that any people in these parts should not believe
in it： why； the sea…serpent has been seen in these parts。〃
〃When was that； Gwr Boneddig？〃 said one of the company。
〃About fifty years ago；〃 said I。 〃Once in October； in the year
1805； as a small vessel of the Traeth was upon the Menai； sailing
very slowly； the weather being very calm； the people on board saw a
strange creature like an immense worm swimming after them。 It soon
overtook them； climbed on board through the tiller…hole； and coiled
itself on the deck under the mast … the people at first were
dreadfully frightened； but taking courage they attacked it with an
oar and drove it overboard； it followed the vessel for some time；
but a breeze springing up they lost sight of it。〃
〃And how did you learn this？〃 said the last who had addressed me。
〃I read the story；〃 said I； 〃in a pure Welsh book called the
Greal。〃
〃I now remember hearing the same thing；〃 said an old man； 〃when I
was a boy； it had slipt out of my memory； but now I remember all
about it。 The ship was called the ROBERT ELLIS。 Are you of these
parts； gentleman？〃
〃No；〃 said I； 〃I am not of these parts。〃
〃Then you are of South Wales … indeed your Welsh is very different
from ours。〃
〃I am not of South Wales；〃 said I； 〃I am the seed not of the sea…
snake but of the coiling serpent； for so one of the old Welsh poets
called the Saxons。〃
〃But how did you learn Welsh？〃 said the old man。
〃I learned it by the grammar；〃 said I； 〃a long time ago。〃
〃Ah； you learnt it by the grammar；〃 said the old man； 〃that
accounts for your Welsh being different from ours。 We did not
learn our Welsh by the grammar … your Welsh is different from ours；
and of course better； being the Welsh of the grammar。 Ah； it is a
fine thing to be a grammarian。〃
〃Yes； it is a fine thing to be a grammarian；〃 cried the rest of the
company； and I observed that everybody now regarded me with a kind
of respect。
A jug of ale which the hostess had brought me had been standing
before me some time。 I now tasted it and found it very good。
Whilst despatching it； I asked various questions about the old
Danes； the reason why the place was called the port of the
Norwegian； and about its trade。 The good folks knew nothing about
the old Danes； and as little as to the reason of its being called
the port of the Norwegian … but they said that besides that name it
bore that of Melin Heli； or the mill of the salt pool； and that
slates were exported from thence