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wild wales-第62章

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 1671。
  P。
R。  A。


〃You seem struck with that writing?〃 said Pritchard; observing that 
I stood motionless; staring at the tablet。

〃The name of Paston;〃 said I; 〃struck me; it is the name of a 
village in my own native district; from which an old family; now 
almost extinct; derived its name。  How came a Paston into Ynys Fon?  
Are there any people bearing that name at present in these parts?〃

〃Not that I am aware;〃 said Pritchard;

〃I wonder who his wife Ann was?〃 said I; 〃from the style of that 
tablet she must have been a considerable person。〃

〃Perhaps she was the daughter of the Lewis family of Llan Dyfnant;〃 
said Pritchard; 〃that's an old family and a rich one。  Perhaps he 
came from a distance and saw and married a daughter of the Lewis of 
Dyfnant … more than one stranger has done so。  Lord Vivian came 
from a distance and saw and married a daughter of the rich Lewis of 
Dyfnant。〃

I shook honest Pritchard by the hand; thanked him for his kindness 
and wished him farewell; whereupon he gave mine a hearty squeeze; 
thanking me for my custom。

〃Which is my way;〃 said I; 〃to Pen Caer Gybi?〃

〃You must go about a mile on the Bangor road; and then turning to 
the right pass through Penmynnydd; but what takes you to Holyhead?〃

〃I wish to see;〃 said I; 〃the place where Cybi the tawny saint 
preached and worshipped。  He was called tawny because from his 
frequent walks in the blaze of the sun his face had become much 
sun…burnt。  This is a furiously hot day; and perhaps by the time I 
get to Holyhead; I may be so sun…burnt as to be able to pass for 
Cybi himself。〃



CHAPTER XXXVI



Moelfre … Owain Gwynedd … Church of Penmynnydd … The Rose of Mona。


LEAVING Pentraeth Coch I retraced my way along the Bangor road till 
I came to the turning on the right。  Here I diverged from the 
aforesaid road; and proceeded along one which led nearly due west; 
after travelling about a mile I stopped; on the top of a little 
hill; cornfields were on either side; and in one an aged man was 
reaping close to the road; I looked south; west; north and east; to 
the south was the Snowdon range far away; with the Wyddfa just 
discernible; to the west and north was nothing very remarkable; but 
to the east or rather north…east; was mountain Lidiart and the tall 
hill confronting it across the bay。

〃Can you tell me;〃 said I to the old reaper; 〃the name of that bald 
hill; which looks towards Lidiart?〃

〃We call that hill Moelfre;〃 said the old man desisting from his 
labour; and touching his hat。

〃Dear me;〃 said I; 〃Moelfre; Moelfre!〃

〃Is there anything wonderful in the name; sir?〃 said the old man 
smiling。

〃There is nothing wonderful in the name;〃 said I; 〃which merely 
means the bald hill; but it brings wonderful recollections to my 
mind。  I little thought when I was looking from the road near 
Pentraeth Coch yesterday on that hill; and the bay and strand below 
it; and admiring the tranquillity which reigned over all; that I 
was gazing upon the scene of one of the most tremendous conflicts 
recorded in history or poetry。〃

〃Dear me;〃 said the old reaper; 〃and whom may it have been between? 
the French and English; I suppose。〃

〃No;〃 said I; 〃it was fought between one of your Welsh kings; the 
great Owain Gwynedd; and certain northern and Irish enemies of 
his。〃

〃Only think;〃 said the old man; 〃and it was a fierce battle; sir?〃

〃It was; indeed;〃 said I; 〃according to the words of a poet; who 
described it; the Menai could not ebb on account of the torrent of 
blood which flowed into it; slaughter was heaped upon slaughter; 
shout followed shout; and around Moelfre a thousand war flags 
waved。〃

〃Well; sir;〃 said the old man; 〃I never before heard anything about 
it; indeed I don't trouble my head with histories; unless they be 
Bible histories。〃

〃Are you a Churchman?〃 said I。

〃No;〃 said the old man; shortly; 〃I am a Methodist。〃

〃I belong to the Church;〃 said I。

〃So I should have guessed; sir; by your being so well acquainted 
with pennillion and histories。  Ah; the Church。 。 。 。 。〃

〃This is dreadfully hot weather; said I; 〃and I should like to 
offer you sixpence for ale; but as I am a Churchman I suppose you 
would not accept it from my hands。〃

〃The Lord forbid; sir;〃 said the old man; 〃that I should be so 
uncharitable!  If your honour chooses to give me sixpence; I will 
receive it willingly。  Thank your honour!  Well; I have often said 
there is a great deal of good in the Church of England。〃

I once more looked at the hill which overlooked the scene of Owen 
Gwynedd's triumph over the united forces of the Irish Lochlanders 
and Normans; and then after inquiring of the old man whether I was 
in the right direction for Penmynnydd; and finding that I was; I 
set off at a great pace; singing occasionally snatches of Black 
Robin's ode in praise of Anglesey; amongst others the following 
stanza:…


〃Bread of the wholesomest is found
In my mother…land of Anglesey;
Friendly bounteous men abound
In Penmynnydd of Anglesey。〃


I reached Penmynnydd; a small village consisting of a few white 
houses and a mill。  The meaning of Penmynnydd is literally the top 
of a hill。  The village does not stand on a hill; but the church 
which is at some distance; stands on one; or rather on a hillock。  
And it is probable from the circumstance of the church standing on 
a hillock; that the parish derives its name。  Towards the church 
after a slight glance at the village; I proceeded with hasty steps; 
and was soon at the foot of the hillock。  A house; that of the 
clergyman; stands near the church; on the top of the hill。  I 
opened a gate; and entered a lane which seemed to lead up to the 
church。

As I was passing some low buildings; probably offices pertaining to 
the house; a head was thrust from a doorway; which stared at me。  
It was a strange hirsute head; and probably looked more strange and 
hirsute than it naturally was; owing to its having a hairy cap upon 
it。

〃Good day;〃 said I。

〃Good day; sar;〃 said the head; and in a moment more a man of 
middle stature; about fifty; in hairy cap; shirt…sleeves; and green 
apron round his waist; stood before me。  He looked the beau…ideal 
of a servant of all work。

〃Can I see the church?〃 said I。

〃Ah; you want to see the church;〃 said honest Scrub。  〃Yes; sar! 
you shall see the church。  You go up road there past church … come 
to house; knock at door … say what you want … and nice little girl 
show you church。  Ah; you quite right to come and see church … fine 
tomb there and clebber man sleeping in it with his wife; clebber 
man that … Owen Tiddir; married great queen … dyn clebber iawn。〃

Following the suggestions of the man of the hairy cap I went round 
the church and knocked at the door of the house; a handsome 
parsonage。  A nice little servant…girl presently made her 
appearance at the door; of whom I inquired whether I could see the 
church。

〃Certainly; sir;〃 said she; 〃I will go for the key and accompany 
you。〃

She fetched the key and away we went to the church。  It is a 
venerable chapel…like edifice; with a b
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