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〃Who owns this wood？〃 said I in Welsh to two men who were limbing a
felled tree by the road…side。
〃Lord Vivian；〃 answered one； touching his hat。
〃The gentleman is our countryman；〃 said he to the other after I had
passed。
I was now descending the side of a pretty valley； and soon found
myself at Pentraeth Coch。 The part of the Pentraeth where I now
was consisted of a few houses and a church； or something which I
judged to be a church； for there was no steeple； the houses and
church stood about a little open spot or square； the church on the
east； and on the west a neat little inn or public…house over the
door of which was written 〃The White Horse。 Hugh Pritchard。〃 By
this time I had verified in part the prediction of the old Welsh
poet of the post…office。 Though I was not yet arrived at Llanfair；
I was； if not tired； very thirsty； owing to the burning heat of the
weather； so I determined to go in and have some ale。 On entering
the house I was greeted in English by Mr Hugh Pritchard himself； a
tall bulky man with a weather…beaten countenance； dressed in a
brown jerkin and corduroy trowsers； with a broad low…crowned buff…
coloured hat on his head； and what might he called half shoes and
half high…lows on his feet。 He had a short pipe in his mouth；
which when he greeted me he took out； but replaced as soon as the
greeting was over； which consisted of 〃Good…day； sir；〃 delivered in
a frank； hearty tone。 I looked Mr Hugh Pritchard in the face and
thought I had never seen a more honest countenance。 On my telling
Mr Pritchard that I wanted a pint of ale； a buxom damsel came
forward and led me into a nice cool parlour on the right…hand side
of the door； and then went to fetch the ale。
Mr Pritchard meanwhile went into a kind of tap…room； fronting the
parlour； where I heard him talking in Welsh about pigs and cattle
to some of his customers。 I observed that he spoke with some
hesitation； which circumstance I mention as rather curious； he
being the only Welshman I have ever known who； when speaking his
native language； appeared to be at a loss for words。 The damsel
presently brought me the ale； which I tasted and found excellent；
she was going away when I asked her whether Mr Pritchard was her
father； on her replying in the affirmative I inquired whether she
was born in that house。
〃No！〃 said she； 〃I was born in Liverpool； my father was born in
this house； which belonged to his fathers before him； but he left
it at an early age and married my mother in Liverpool； who was an
Anglesey woman； and so I was born in Liverpool。〃
〃And what did you do in Liverpool？〃 said I。
〃My mother kept a little shop；〃 said the girl； 〃whilst my father
followed various occupations。〃
〃And how long have you been here？〃 said I。
〃Since the death of my grandfather；〃 said the girl； 〃which happened
about a year ago。 When he died my father came here and took
possession of his birth…right。〃
〃You speak very good English；〃 said I； 〃have you any Welsh？〃
〃Oh yes； plenty；〃 said the girl； 〃we always speak Welsh together；
but being born at Liverpool； I of course have plenty of English。〃
〃And which language do you prefer？〃 said I。
〃I think I like English best；〃 said the girl； 〃it is the most
useful language。〃
〃Not in Anglesey；〃 said I。
〃Well；〃 said the girl； 〃it is the most genteel。〃
〃Gentility；〃 said I； 〃will be the ruin of Welsh； as it has been of
many other things … what have I to pay for the ale？〃
〃Three pence；〃 said she。
I paid the money and the girl went out。 I finished my ale； and
getting up made for the door； at the door I was met by Mr Hugh
Pritchard； who came out of the tap…room to thank me for my custom；
and to bid me farewell。 I asked him whether I should have any
difficulty in finding the way to Llanfair。
〃None whatever；〃 said he； 〃you have only to pass over the bridge of
the Traeth； and to go due north for about four miles； and you will
find yourself in Llanfair。〃
〃What kind of place is it？〃 said I。
〃A poor straggling village；〃 said Mr Pritchard。
〃Shall I be able to obtain a lodging there for the night？〃 said I。
〃Scarcely one such as you would like；〃 said Hugh。
〃And where had I best pass the night？〃 I demanded。
〃We can accommodate you comfortably here；〃 said Mr Pritchard；
〃provided you have no objection to come back。〃
I told him that I should be only too happy； and forthwith departed；
glad at heart that I had secured a comfortable lodging for the
night。
CHAPTER XXXII
Leave Pentraeth … Tranquil Scene … The Knoll … The Miller and his
Wife … Poetry of Gronwy … Kind Offer … Church of Llanfair … No
English … Confusion of Ideas … The Gronwy … Notable Little Girl …
The Sycamore Leaf … Home from California。
THE village of Pentraeth Goch occupies two sides of a romantic dell
… that part of it which stands on the southern side； and which
comprises the church and the little inn； is by far the prettiest；
that which occupies the northern is a poor assemblage of huts； a
brook rolls at the bottom of the dell； over which there is a little
bridge： coming to the bridge I stopped； and looked over the side
into the water running briskly below。 An aged man who looked like
a beggar； but who did not beg of me； stood by。
〃To what place does this water run？〃 said I in English。
〃I know no Saxon；〃 said he in trembling accents。
I repeated my question in Welsh。
〃To the sea；〃 he said； 〃which is not far off； indeed it is so near；
that when there are high tides； the salt water comes up to this
bridge。〃
〃You seem feeble？〃 said I。
〃I am so；〃 said he； 〃for I am old。〃
〃How old are you？〃 said I。
〃Sixteen after sixty；〃 said the old man with a sigh； 〃and I have
nearly lost my sight and my hearing。〃
〃Are you poor？〃 said I。
〃Very；〃 said the old man。
I gave him a trifle which he accepted with thanks。
〃Why is this sand called the red sand？〃 said I。
〃I cannot tell you；〃 said the old man； 〃I wish I could； for you
have been kind to me。〃
Bidding him farewell I passed through the northern part of the
village to the top of the hill。 I walked a little way forward and
then stopped； as I had done at the bridge in the dale； and looked
to the east； over a low stone wall。
Before me lay the sea or rather the northern entrance of the Menai
Straits。 To my right was mountain Lidiart projecting some way into
the sea； to my left； that is to the north； was a high hill； with a
few white houses near its base； forming a small village； which a
woman who passed by knitting told me was called Llan Peder Goch or
the Church of Red Saint Peter。 Mountain Lidiart and the Northern
Hill formed the headlands of a beautiful bay into which the waters
of the Traeth dell； from which I had come； were discharged。 A
sandbank； probably covered with the sea at high tide； seemed to
stretch from mountain Lidiart a considerable way towards the
northern hill。 Mountain； bay and sandbank were bathed in sunshine；
the water was perfectly calm； nothing was moving upon it； nor upon
the shore； and I thought I had never beheld a more beautiful and