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one； at which coaches used to stop； at present it is occupied by an
amaethwr … that is a farmer； sir。〃
〃Ceiniog Mawr means a great penny；〃 said I； 〃why is it called by
that name？〃
〃I have heard； sir； that before it was an inn it was a very
considerable place； namely a royal mint； at which pennies were
made； and on that account it was called Ceiniog Mawr。〃
I was subsequently told that the name of this place was Cernioge
Mawr。 If such be the real name the legend about the mint falls to
the ground； Cernioge having nothing to do with pence。 Cern in
Welsh means a jaw。 Perhaps the true name of the house is Corniawg；
which interpreted is a place with plenty of turrets or chimneys。 A
mile or two further the ground began to rise； and I came to a small
village at the entrance of which was a water…wheel … near the
village was a gentleman's seat almost surrounded by groves。 After
I had passed through the village； seeing a woman seated by the
roadside knitting； I asked her in English its name。 Finding she
had no Saesneg I repeated the question in Welsh； whereupon she told
me that it was called Pentre Voelas。
〃And whom does the 'Plas' belong to yonder amongst the groves？〃
said I。
〃It belongs to Mr Wynn； sir； and so does the village and a great
deal of the land about here。 A very good gentleman is Mr Wynn；
sir； he is very kind to his tenants and a very good lady is Mrs
Wynn； sir； in the winter she gives much soup to the poor。〃
After leaving the village of Pentre Voelas I soon found myself in a
wild hilly region。 I crossed a bridge over a river； which；
brawling and tumbling amidst rocks； shaped its course to the north…
east。 As I proceeded； the country became more and more wild； there
were dingles and hollows in abundance； and fantastic…looking hills；
some of which were bare； and others clad with trees of various
kinds。 Came to a little well in a cavity； dug in a high bank on
the left…hand side of the road； and fenced by rude stone work on
either side； the well was about ten inches in diameter； and as many
deep。 Water oozing from the bank upon a slanting tile fastened
into the earth fell into it。 After damming up the end of the tile
with my hand； and drinking some delicious water； I passed on and
presently arrived at a cottage； just inside the door of which sat a
good…looking middle…aged woman engaged in knitting； the general
occupation of Welsh females。
〃Good…day；〃 said I to her in Welsh。 〃Fine weather。〃
〃In truth； sir； it is fine weather for the harvest。〃
〃Are you alone in the house？〃
〃I am； sir； my husband has gone to his labour。〃
〃Have you any children？〃
〃Two； sir； but they are out at service。〃
〃What is the name of this place？〃
〃Pant Paddock； sir。〃
〃Do you get your water from the little well yonder？〃
〃We do； sir； and good water it is。〃
〃I have drunk of it。〃
〃Much good may what you have drunk do you； sir！〃
〃What is the name of the river near here？〃
〃It is called the Conway； sir。〃
〃Dear me； is that river the Conway？〃
〃You have heard of it； sir？〃
〃Heard of it！ it is one of the famous rivers of the world。 The
poets are very fond of it … one of the great poets of my country
calls it the old Conway。〃
〃Is one river older than another； sir？〃
〃That's a shrewd question。 Can you read？〃
〃I can； sir。〃
〃Have you any books？〃
〃I have the Bible； sir。〃
〃Will you show it me？〃
〃Willingly； sir。〃
Then getting up she took a book from a shelf and handed it to me；
at the same time begging me to enter the house and sit down。 I
declined； and she again took her seat and resumed her occupation。
On opening the book the first words which met my eye were： 〃Gad i
mi fyned trwy dy dir！ … Let me go through your country〃 （Numb。 XX。
22）。
〃I may say these words；〃 said I； pointing to the passage。 〃Let me
go through your country。〃
〃No one will hinder you； sir； for you seem a civil gentleman。〃
〃No one has hindered me hitherto。 Wherever I have been in Wales I
have experienced nothing but kindness and hospitality； and when I
return to my own country I will say so。〃
〃What country is yours； sir？〃
〃England。 Did you not know that by my tongue？〃
〃I did not； sir。 I knew by your tongue that you were not from our
parts … but I did not know that you were an Englishman。 I took you
for a Cumro of the south country。〃
Returning the kind woman her book； and bidding her farewell I
departed； and proceeded some miles through a truly magnificent
country of wood； rock； and mountain。 At length I came to a steep
mountain gorge； down which the road ran nearly due north； the
Conway to the left running with great noise parallel with the road；
amongst broken rocks； which chafed it into foam。 I was now amidst
stupendous hills； whose paps； peaks； and pinnacles seemed to rise
to the very heaven。 An immense mountain on the right side of the
road particularly struck my attention； and on inquiring of a man
breaking stones by the roadside I learned that it was called Dinas
Mawr； or the large citadel； perhaps from a fort having been built
upon it to defend the pass in the old British times。 Coming to the
bottom of the pass I crossed over by an ancient bridge； and；
passing through a small town； found myself in a beautiful valley
with majestic hills on either side。 This was the Dyffryn Conway；
the celebrated Vale of Conway； to which in the summer time
fashionable gentry from all parts of Britain resort for shade and
relaxation。 When about midway down the valley I turned to the
west； up one of the grandest passes in the world； having two
immense door…posts of rock at the entrance。 the northern one
probably rising to the altitude of nine hundred feet。 On the
southern side of this pass near the entrance were neat dwellings
for the accommodation of visitors with cool apartments on the
ground floor； with large windows； looking towards the precipitous
side of the mighty northern hill； within them I observed tables；
and books； and young men； probably English collegians； seated at
study。
After I had proceeded some way up the pass； down which a small
river ran； a woman who was standing on the right…hand side of the
way； seemingly on the look…out； begged me in broken English to step
aside and look at the fall。
〃You mean a waterfall； I suppose？〃 said I。
〃Yes； sir。〃
〃And how do you call it？〃 said I。
〃The Fall of the Swallow； sir。〃
〃And in Welsh？〃 said I。
〃Rhaiadr y Wennol； sir。〃
〃And what is the name of the river？〃 said I。
〃We call the river the Lygwy； sir。〃
I told the woman I would go； whereupon she conducted me through a
gate on the right…hand side and down a path overhung with trees to
a rock projecting into the river。 The Fall of the Swallow is not a
majestic single fall； but a succession of small ones。 First there
are a number of little foaming torrents； bursting through rocks
about twenty yards above the promontory on which I stood。 Then
come two beautiful rolls of white water； dashing into a pool a
little way above the promontory； then there is a swirl of water
round its corner into a pool