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deserving。 Che viva。〃
〃I wish he would write his life；〃 said I； 〃a singular life it would
be … he has been something besides a travelling merchant； and a
jeweller。 He was one of Buonaparte's soldiers； and served in
Spain； under Soult； along with John Gestra。 He once told me that
Soult was an old rascal； and stole all the fine pictures from the
convents； at Salamanca。 I believe he spoke with some degree of
envy； for he is himself fond of pictures； and has dealt in them；
and made hundreds by them。 I question whether if in Soult's place
he would not have done the same。 Well； however that may be； che
viva。〃
Here the landlady interposed； observing that she wished we would
now speak English； for that she had quite enough of Italian； which
she did not find near so pretty a language as she had expected。
〃You must not judge of the sound of Italian from what proceeds from
my mouth；〃 said I。 〃It is not my native language。 I have had
little practice in it； and only speak it very imperfectly。〃
〃Nor must you judge of Italian from what you have heard me speak；〃
said the man of Como； 〃I am not good at Italian； for the Milanese
speak amongst themselves a kind of jargon； composed of many
languages； and can only express themselves with difficulty in
Italian。 I have been doing my best to speak Italian； but should be
glad now to speak English； which comes to me much more glibly。〃
〃Are there any books in your dialect； or jergo； as I believe you
call it？〃 said I。
〃I believe there are a few；〃 said the Italian。
〃Do you know the word slandra？〃 said I。
〃Who taught you that word？〃 said the Italian。
〃Giovanni Gestra；〃 said I； 〃he was always using it。〃
〃Giovanni Gestra was a vulgar illiterate man；〃 said the Italian；
〃had he not been so he would not have used it。 It is a vulgar
word； Rossi would not have used it。〃
〃What is the meaning of it？〃 said the landlady eagerly。
〃To roam about in a dissipated manner；〃 said I。
〃Something more；〃 said the Italian。 〃It is considered a vulgar
word even in jergo。〃
〃You speak English remarkably well；〃 said I； 〃have you been long in
Britain？〃
〃I came over about four years ago；〃 said the Italian。
〃On your own account？〃 said I。
〃Not exactly； signore； my brother； who was in business in
Liverpool； wrote to me to come over and assist him。 I did so； but
soon left him； and took a shop for myself at Denbigh； where；
however； I did not stay long。 At present I travel for an Italian
house in London； spending the summer in Wales； and the winter in
England。〃
〃And what do you sell？〃 said I。
〃Weather…glasses； signore … pictures and little trinkets； such as
the country people like。〃
〃Do you sell many weather…glasses in Wales？〃 said I。
〃I do not； signore。 The Welsh care not for weather…glasses； my
principal customers for weather…glasses are the farmers of
England。〃
〃I am told that you can speak Welsh；〃 said I； 〃is that true？〃
〃I have picked up a little of it； signore。〃
〃He can speak it very well；〃 said the landlady； 〃and glad should I
be； sir； to hear you and him speak Welsh together。〃
〃So should I；〃 said the daughter who was seated nigh us； 〃nothing
would give me greater pleasure than to hear two who are not
Welshmen speaking Welsh together。〃
〃I would rather speak English；〃 said the Italian； 〃I speak a little
Welsh； when my business leads me amongst people who speak no other
language； but I see no necessity for speaking Welsh here。〃
〃It is a pity；〃 said I； 〃that so beautiful a country as Italy
should not be better governed。〃
〃It is； signore；〃 said the Italian； 〃but let us hope that a time
will speedily come when she will be so。〃
〃I don't see any chance of it；〃 said I。 〃How will you proceed in
order to bring about so desirable a result as the good government
of Italy？〃
〃Why； signore； in the first place we must get rid of the
Austrians。〃
〃You will not find it an easy matter；〃 said I； 〃to get rid of the
Austrians； you tried to do so a little time ago； but miserably
failed。〃
〃True； signore； but the next time we try perhaps the French will
help us。〃
〃If the French help you to drive the Austrians from Italy；〃 said I；
〃you must become their servants。 It is true you had better be the
servants of the polished and chivalrous French； than of the brutal
and barbarous Germans； but it is not pleasant to be a servant to
anybody。 However； I do not believe that you will ever get rid of
the Austrians； even if the French assist you。 The Pope for certain
reasons of his own favours the Austrians； and will exert all the
powers of priestcraft to keep them in Italy。 Alas； alas； there is
no hope for Italy！ Italy； the most beautiful country in the world；
the birth…place of the cleverest people； whose very pedlars can
learn to speak Welsh； is not only enslaved； but destined always to
remain enslaved。〃
〃Do not say so； signore；〃 said the Italian； with a kind of groan。
〃But I do say so；〃 said I； 〃and what is more； one whose shoe…
strings； were he alive； I should not he worthy to untie； one of
your mighty ones； has said so。 Did you ever hear of Vincenzio
Filicaia？〃
〃I believe I have； signore； did he not write a sonnet on Italy？〃
〃He did；〃 said I； 〃would you like to hear it？
〃Very much； signore。〃
I repeated Filicaia's glorious sonnet on Italy； and then asked him
if he understood it。
〃Only in part； signore； for it is composed in old Tuscan； in which
I am not much versed。 I believe I should comprehend it better if
you were to say it in English。〃
〃Do say it in English；〃 said the landlady and her daughter： 〃we
should so like to hear it in English。〃
〃I will repeat a translation；〃 said I； 〃which I made when a boy；
which though far from good； has； I believe； in it something of the
spirit of the original：…
〃O Italy！ on whom dark Destiny
The dangerous gift of beauty did bestow；
From whence thou hast that ample dower of wo；
Which on thy front thou bear'st so visibly。
Would thou hadst beauty less or strength more high；
That more of fear； and less of love might show；
He who now blasts him in thy beauty's glow；
Or woos thee with a zeal that makes thee die；
Then down from Alp no more would torrents rage
Of armed men； nor Gallic coursers hot
In Po's ensanguin'd tide their thirst assuage；
Nor girt with iron； not thine own； I wot；
Wouldst thou the fight by hands of strangers wage
Victress or vanquish'd slavery still thy lot。〃
CHAPTER XXV
Lacing…up High…lows … The Native Village … Game Leg … Croppies Lie
Down … Keeping Faith … Processions … Croppies Get Up … Daniel
O'Connell。
I SLEPT in the chamber communicating with the room in which I had
dined。 The chamber was spacious and airy； the bed first…rate； and
myself rather tired； so that no one will be surprised when I say
that I had excellent rest。 I got up； and after dressing myself
went down。 The morning was exceedingly brilliant。 Going out I saw
the Italian lacing up his high…lows against a step。 I saluted him；
and asked him if he was about to depart。
〃Yes； signore； I shall presently start for Denbigh。〃
〃After