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penhwiaid； or ducks…heads； from the similarity which the head of a
pike bears to that of a duck； are said to be tenants of this pool。
We returned to the vicarage； and at about ten we all sat down to
supper。 On the supper…table was a mighty pitcher full of foaming
ale。
〃There；〃 said my excellent host； as he poured me out a glass；
〃there is a glass of cwrw； which Evan Evans himself might have
drunk。〃
One evening my wife； Henrietta； and myself； attended by John Jones；
went upon the Berwyn； a little to the east of the Geraint or
Barber's Hill； to botanize。 Here we found a fern which John Jones
called Coed llus y Bran； or the plant of the Crow's berry。 There
was a hard kind of berry upon it； of which he said the crows were
exceedingly fond。 We also discovered two or three other strange
plants； the Welsh names of which our guide told us； and which were
curious and descriptive enough。 He took us home by a romantic path
which we had never before seen； and on our way pointed out to us a
small house in which he said he was born。
The day after； finding myself on the banks of the Dee in the upper
part of the valley； I determined to examine the Llam Lleidyr or
Robber's Leap； which I had heard spoken of on a former occasion。 A
man passing near me with a cart I asked him where the Robber's Leap
was。 I spoke in English； and with a shake of his head he replied
〃Dim Saesneg。〃 On my putting the question to him in Welsh；
however； his countenance brightened up。
〃Dyna Llam Lleidyr； sir！〃 said he； pointing to a very narrow part
of the stream a little way down。
〃And did the thief take it from this side？〃 I demanded。
〃Yes； sir； from this side；〃 replied the man。
I thanked him； and passing over the dry part of the river's bed；
came to the Llam Lleidyr。 The whole water of the Dee in the dry
season gurgles here through a passage not more than four feet
across； which； however； is evidently profoundly deep； as the water
is as dark as pitch。 If the thief ever took the leap he must have
taken it in the dry season； for in the wet the Dee is a wide and
roaring torrent。 Yet even in the dry season it is difficult to
conceive how anybody could take this leap； for on the other side is
a rock rising high above the dark gurgling stream。 On observing
the opposite side； however； narrowly； I perceived that there was a
small hole a little way up the rock； in which it seemed possible to
rest one's foot for a moment。 So I supposed that if the leap was
ever taken； the individual who took it darted the tip of his foot
into the hole； then springing up seized the top of the rock with
his hands； and scrambled up。 From either side the leap must have
been a highly dangerous one … from the farther side the leaper
would incur the almost certain risk of breaking his legs on a ledge
of hard rock； from this of falling back into the deep horrible
stream； which would probably suck him down in a moment。
From the Llam y Lleidyr I went to the canal and walked along it
till I came to the house of the old man who sold coals； and who had
put me in mind of Smollett's Morgan； he was now standing in his
little coal…yard； leaning over the pales。 I had spoken to him on
two or three occasions subsequent to the one on which I made his
acquaintance； and had been every time more and more struck with the
resemblance which his ways and manners bore to those of Smollett's
character； on which account I shall call him Morgan； though such
was not his name。 He now told me that he expected that I should
build a villa and settle down in the neighbourhood； as I seemed so
fond of it。 After a little discourse； induced either by my
questions or from a desire to talk about himself； he related to me
his history； which； though not one of the most wonderful； I shall
repeat。 He was born near Aberdarron in Caernarvonshire； and in
order to make me understand the position of the place； and its
bearing with regard to some other places； he drew marks in the
coal…dust on the earth。 His father was a Baptist minister； who
when Morgan was about six years of age； went to live at Canol Lyn；
a place at some little distance from Port Heli。 With his father he
continued till he was old enough to gain his own maintenance； when
he went to serve a farmer in the neighbourhood。 Having saved some
money young Morgan departed to the foundries at Cefn Mawr； at which
he worked thirty years with an interval of four； which he had
passed partly in working in slate quarries； and partly upon the
canal。 About four years before the present time he came to where
he now lived； where he commenced selling coals； at first on his own
account and subsequently for some other person。 He concluded his
narration by saying that he was now sixty…two years of age； was
afflicted with various disorders； and believed that he was breaking
up。
Such was Morgan's history； certainly not a very remarkable one。
Yet Morgan was a most remarkable individual； as I shall presently
make appear。
Rather affected at the bad account he gave me of his health I asked
him if he felt easy in his mind？ He replied perfectly so； and when
I inquired how he came to feel so comfortable； he said that his
feeling so was owing to his baptism into the faith of Christ Jesus。
On my telling him that I too had been baptized； he asked me if I
had been dipped； and on learning that I had not； but only been
sprinkled； according to the practice of my church； he gave me to
understand that my baptism was not worth three halfpence。 Feeling
rather nettled at hearing the baptism of my church so undervalued；
I stood up for it； and we were soon in a dispute； in which I got
rather the worst； for though he spuffled and sputtered in a most
extraordinary manner； and spoke in a dialect which was neither
Welsh； English nor Cheshire； but a mixture of all three； he said
two or three things rather difficult to be got over。 Finding that
he had nearly silenced me； he observed that he did not deny that I
had a good deal of book learning； but that in matters of baptism I
was as ignorant as the rest of the people of the church were； and
had always been。 He then said that many church people had entered
into argument with him on the subject of baptism； but that he had
got the better of them all； that Mr P。； the minister of the parish
of L。； in which we then were； had frequently entered into argument
with him； but quite unsuccessfully； and had at last given up the
matter； as a bad job。 He added that a little time before； as Mr P。
was walking close to the canal with his wife and daughter and a
spaniel dog； Mr P。 suddenly took up the dog and flung it in； giving
it a good ducking； whereupon he； Morgan； cried out： 〃Dyna y gwir
vedydd！ That is the right baptism； sir！ I thought I should bring
you to it at last！〃 at which words Mr P。 laughed heartily； but made
no particular reply。
After a little time he began to talk about the great men who had
risen up amongst the Baptists； and mentioned two or three
distinguished individuals。
I said that he had not mentioned the greatest