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grand lady too … kept grand company； and used to be drawn about in
a coach by four horses。 But she too is gone； and the house is cold
and empty； no fire in it； sir； no furniture。 There was an auction
after her death； and a grand auction it was and lasted four days。
Oh； what a throng of people there was； some of whom came from a
great distance to buy the curious things； of which there were
plenty。〃
We passed over a bridge； which crosses a torrent； which descends
from the mountain on the south side of Llangollen； which bridge
John Jones told me was called the bridge of the Melin Bac； or mill
of the nook； from a mill of that name close by。 Continuing our way
we came to a glen； down which the torrent comes which passes under
the bridge。 There was little water in the bed of the torrent； and
we crossed easily enough by stepping…stones。 I looked up the glen；
a wild place enough； its sides overgrown with trees。 Dreary and
dismal it looked in the gloom of the closing evening。 John Jones
said that there was no regular path up it； and that one could only
get along by jumping from stone to stone； at the hazard of breaking
one's legs。 Having passed over the bed of the torrent； we came to
a path； which led up the mountain。 The path was very steep and
stony； the glen with its trees and darkness on our right。 We
proceeded some way。 At length John Jones pointed to a hollow lane
on our right； seemingly leading into the glen。
〃That place； sir；〃 said he； 〃is called Pant y Gwyddel … the
Irishman's dingle； and sometimes Pant Paddy； from the Irish being
fond of taking up their quarters there。 It was just here； at the
entrance of the pant； that the tribe were encamped； when I passed
two months ago at night； in returning from the other side of the
hill with ten shillings in my pocket； which I had been paid for a
piece of my work； which I had carried over the mountain to the very
place where I am now carrying this。 I shall never forget the
fright I was in； both on account of my life； and my ten shillings。
I ran down what remained of the hill as fast as I could； not
minding the stones。 Should I meet a tribe now on my return I shall
not run； you will be with me； and I shall not fear for my life nor
for my money； which will be now more than ten shillings； provided
the man over the hills pays me； as I have no doubt he will。〃
As we ascended higher we gradually diverged from the glen； though
we did not lose sight of it till we reached the top of the
mountain。 The top was nearly level。 On our right were a few
fields enclosed with stone walls。 On our left was an open space
where whin； furze and heath were growing。 We passed over the
summit； and began to descend by a tolerably good； though steep
road。 But for the darkness of evening and a drizzling mist； which；
for some time past； had been coming on； we should have enjoyed a
glorious prospect down into the valley； or perhaps I should say
that I should have enjoyed a glorious prospect； for John Jones；
like a true mountaineer； cared not a brass farthing for prospects。
Even as it was； noble glimpses of wood and rock were occasionally
to be obtained。 The mist soon wetted us to the skin
notwithstanding that we put up our umbrellas。 It was a regular
Welsh mist； a niwl； like that in which the great poet Ab Gwilym
lost his way； whilst trying to keep an assignation with his beloved
Morfydd； and which he abuses in the following manner：…
〃O ho！ thou villain mist； O ho！
What plea hast thou to plague me so？
I scarcely know a scurril name；
But dearly thou deserv'st the same；
Thou exhalation from the deep
Unknown； where ugly spirits keep！
Thou smoke from hellish stews uphurl'd
To mock and mortify the world！
Thou spider…web of giant race；
Spun out and spread through airy space！
Avaunt； thou filthy； clammy thing；
Of sorry rain the source and spring！
Moist blanket dripping misery down；
Loathed alike by land and town！
Thou watery monster； wan to see；
Intruding 'twixt the sun and me；
To rob me of my blessed right；
To turn my day to dismal night。
Parent of thieves and patron best；
They brave pursuit within thy breast！
Mostly from thee its merciless snow
Grim January doth glean； I trow。
Pass off with speed； thou prowler pale；
Holding along o'er hill and dale；
Spilling a noxious spittle round；
Spoiling the fairies' sporting ground！
Move off to hell； mysterious haze；
Wherein deceitful meteors blaze；
Thou wild of vapour； vast； o'ergrown；
Huge as the ocean of unknown。〃
As we descended； the path became more steep； it was particularly so
at a part where it was overshadowed with trees on both sides。
Here； finding walking very uncomfortable； my knees suffering much；
I determined to run。 So shouting to John Jones； 〃Nis gallav
gerdded rhaid rhedeg；〃 I set off running down the pass。 My
companion followed close behind； and luckily meeting no mischance；
we presently found ourselves on level ground； amongst a collection
of small houses。 On our turning a corner a church appeared on our
left hand on the slope of the hill。 In the churchyard； and close
to the road； grew a large yew…tree which flung its boughs far on
every side。 John Jones stopping by the tree said； that if I looked
over the wall of the yard I should see the tomb of a Lord
Dungannon； who had been a great benefactor to the village。 I
looked； and through the lower branches of the yew； which hung over
part of the churchyard； I saw what appeared to be a mausoleum。
Jones told me that in the church also there was the tomb of a great
person of the name of Tyrwhitt。
We passed on by various houses till we came nearly to the bottom of
the valley。 Jones then pointing to a large house； at a little
distance on the right； told me that it was a good gwesty； and
advised me to go and refresh myself in it； whilst he went and
carried home his work to the man who employed him； who he said
lived in a farm…house a few hundred yards off。 I asked him where
we were。
〃At Llyn Ceiriog；〃 he replied。
I then asked if we were near Pont Fadog； and received for answer
that Pont Fadog was a good way down the valley； to the north…east；
and that we could not see it owing to a hill which intervened。
Jones went his way and I proceeded to the gwestfa； the door of
which stood invitingly open。 I entered a large kitchen； at one end
of which a good fire was burning in a grate； in front of which was
a long table； and a high settle on either side。 Everything looked
very comfortable。 There was nobody in the kitchen： on my calling；
however； a girl came； whom I bade in Welsh to bring me a pint of
the best ale。 The girl stared； but went away apparently to fetch
it … presently came the landlady； a good…looking middle…aged woman。
I saluted her in Welsh and then asked her if she could speak
English。 She replied 〃Tipyn bach；〃 which interpreted； is； a little
bit。 I soon； however； found that she could speak it very passably；
for two men coming in from the rear of the house she conversed with
them in English。 These two individuals seated themselves on chairs
near the door