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field on our right hand at about a hundred yards' distance from the
road。 〃That is the pillar of Eliseg； sir；〃 said my guide。 〃Let us
go and see it；〃 said I。 We soon reached the stone。 It is a fine
upright column about seven feet high； and stands on a quadrate
base。 〃Sir；〃 said my guide； 〃a dead king lies buried beneath this
stone。 He was a mighty man of valour and founded the abbey。 He
was called Eliseg。〃 〃Perhaps Ellis；〃 said I； 〃and if his name was
Ellis the stone was very properly called Colofn Eliseg； in Saxon
the Ellisian column。〃 The view from the column is very beautiful；
below on the south…east is the venerable abbey； slumbering in its
green meadow。 Beyond it runs a stream； descending from the top of
a glen； at the bottom of which the old pile is situated； beyond the
stream is a lofty hill。 The glen on the north is bounded by a
noble mountain； covered with wood。 Struck with its beauty I
inquired its name。 〃Moel Eglwysig； sir；〃 said my guide。 〃The Moel
of the Church；〃 said I。 〃That is hardly a good name for it； for
the hill is not bald （moel）。〃 〃True； sir；〃 said John Jones。 〃At
present its name is good for nothing； but estalom （of old） before
the hill was planted with trees its name was good enough。 Our
fathers were not fools when they named their hills。〃 〃I daresay
not；〃 said I； 〃nor in many other things which they did； for which
we laugh at them； because we do not know the reasons they had for
doing them。〃 We regained the road； the road tended to the north up
a steep ascent。 I asked John Jones the name of a beautiful
village； which lay far away on our right； over the glen； and near
its top。 〃Pentref y dwr； sir〃 （the village of the water）。 It is
called the village of the water； because the river below comes down
through part of it。 I next asked the name of the hill up which we
were going； and he told me Allt Bwlch； that is； the high place of
the hollow road。
This bwlch； or hollow way； was a regular pass； which put me
wonderfully in mind of the passes of Spain。 It took us a long time
to get to the top。 After resting a minute on the summit we began
to descend。 My guide pointed out to me some slate…works； at some
distance on our left。 〃There is a great deal of work going on
there； sir；〃 said he： 〃all the slates that you see descending the
canal at Llangollen came from there。〃 The next moment we heard a
blast； and then a thundering sound： 〃Llais craig yn syrthiaw； the
voice of the rock in falling； sir；〃 said John Jones； 〃blasting is
dangerous and awful work。〃 We reached the bottom of the descent；
and proceeded for two or three miles up and down a rough and narrow
road； I then turned round and looked at the hills which we had
passed over。 They looked bulky and huge。
We continued our way； and presently saw marks of a fire in some
grass by the side of the road。 〃Have the Gipsiaid been there？〃
said I to my guide。
〃Hardly； sir； I should rather think that the Gwyddelaid （Irish）
have been camping there lately。〃
〃The Gwyddeliad？〃
〃Yes； sir； the vagabond Gwyddeliad； who at present infest these
parts much； and do much more harm than the Gipsiaid ever did。〃
〃What do you mean by the Gipsiaid？〃
〃Dark； handsome people； sir； who occasionally used to come about in
vans and carts； the men buying and selling horses； and sometimes
tinkering； whilst the women told fortunes。〃
〃And they have ceased to come about？〃
〃Nearly so； sir； I believe they have been frightened away by the
Gwyddelod。〃
〃What kind of people are these Gwyddelod？
〃Savage； brutish people； sir； in general without shoes and
stockings； with coarse features and heads of hair like mops。〃
〃How do they live？〃
〃The men tinker a little； sir； but more frequently plunder。 The
women tell fortunes； and steal whenever they can。〃
〃They live something like the Gipsiaid。〃
〃Something； sir； but the hen Gipsiaid were gentlefolks in
comparison。〃
〃You think the Gipsiaid have been frightened away by the
Gwyddelians？〃
〃I do； sir； the Gwyddelod made their appearance in these parts
about twenty years ago； and since then the Gipsiaid have been
rarely seen。〃
〃Are these Gwyddelod poor？〃
〃By no means； sir； they make large sums by plundering and other
means； with which； 'tis said； they retire at last to their own
country or America； where they buy land and settle down。〃
〃What language do they speak？〃
〃English； sir； they pride themselves on speaking good English； that
is to the Welsh。 Amongst themselves they discourse in their own
Paddy Gwyddel。〃
〃Have they no Welsh？〃
〃Only a few words； sir； I never heard one of them speaking Welsh；
save a young girl … she fell sick by the roadside as she was
wandering by herself … some people at a farmhouse took her in； and
tended her till she was well。 During her sickness she took a fancy
to their quiet way of life； and when she was recovered she begged
to stay with them and serve them。 They consented； she became a
very good servant； and hearing nothing but Welsh spoken； soon
picked up the tongue。〃
〃Do you know what became of her？〃
〃I do； sir； her own people found her out； and wished to take her
away with them； but she refused to let them； for by that time she
was perfectly reclaimed； had been to chapel； renounced her heathen
crefydd； and formed an acquaintance with a young Methodist who had
a great gift of prayer； whom she afterwards married … she and her
husband live at present not far from Mineira。〃
〃I almost wonder that her own people did not kill her。〃
〃They threatened to do so； sir； and would doubtless have put their
threat into execution； had they not been prevented by the Man on
High。〃
And here my guide pointed with his finger reverently upward。
〃Is it a long time since you have seen any of these Gwyddeliaid？〃
〃About two months； sir； and then a terrible fright they caused me。〃
〃How was that？〃
〃I will tell you； sir； I had been across the Berwyn to carry home a
piece of weaving work to a person who employs me。 It was night as
I returned； and when I was about halfway down the hill； at a place
which is called Allt Paddy； because the Gwyddelod are in the habit
of taking up their quarters there； I came upon a gang of them； who
had come there and camped and lighted their fire； whilst I was on
the other side of the hill。 There were nearly twenty of them； men
and women； and amongst the rest was a man standing naked in a tub
of water with two women stroking him down with clouts。 He was a
large fierce…looking fellow and his body； on which the flame of the
fire glittered； was nearly covered with red hair。 I never saw such
a sight。 As I passed they glared at me and talked violently in
their Paddy Gwyddel； but did not offer to molest me。 I hastened
down the hill； and right glad I was when I found myself safe and
sound at my house in Llangollen； with my money in my pocket； for I
had several shillings there； which the man across the hill had paid
me for the work which I had done。〃
CHAPTER XV
The Turf Tavern … Don't Understand … The Best Welsh … The Maids of
M