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CHAPTER XIII
Divine Service … Llangollen Bells … Iolo Goch … The Abbey … Twm o'r
Nant … Holy Well … Thomas Edwards
SUNDAY arrived … a Sunday of unclouded sunshine。 We attended
Divine service at church in the morning。 The congregation was very
numerous； but to all appearance consisted almost entirely of
English visitors； like ourselves。 There were two officiating
clergymen； father and son。 They both sat in a kind of oblong
pulpit on the southern side of the church； at a little distance
below the altar。 The service was in English； and the elder
gentleman preached； there was good singing and chanting。
After dinner I sat in an arbour in the perllan； thinking of many
things； amongst others； spiritual。 Whilst thus engaged； the sound
of the church bells calling people to afternoon service came upon
my ears。 I listened； and thought I had never heard bells with so
sweet a sound。 I had heard them in the morning； but without paying
much attention to them； but as I now sat in the umbrageous arbour；
I was particularly struck with them。 Oh how sweetly their voice
mingled with the low rush of the river； at the bottom of the
perllan。 I subsequently found that the bells of Llangollen were
celebrated for their sweetness。 Their merit indeed has even been
admitted by an enemy； for a poet of the Calvinistic Methodist
persuasion； one who calls himself Einion Du； in a very beautiful
ode； commencing with …
〃Tangnefedd i Llangollen；〃
says that in no part of the world do bells call people so sweetly
to church as those of Llangollen town。
In the evening； at about half…past six； I attended service again；
but without my family。 This time the congregation was not
numerous； and was composed principally of poor people。 The service
and sermon were now in Welsh； the sermon was preached by the
younger gentleman； and was on the building of the second temple；
and； as far as I understood it； appeared to me to be exceedingly
good。
On the Monday evening； myself and family took a walk to the abbey。
My wife and daughter； who are fond of architecture and ruins； were
very anxious to see the old place。 I too was anxious enough to see
it； less from love of ruins and ancient architecture； than from
knowing that a certain illustrious bard was buried in its
precincts； of whom perhaps a short account will not be unacceptable
to the reader。
This man； whose poetical appellation was Iolo Goch； but whose real
name was Llwyd； was of a distinguished family； and Lord of
Llechryd。 He was born and generally resided at a place called Coed
y Pantwn； in the upper part of the Vale of Clwyd。 He was a warm
friend and partisan of Owen Glendower； with whom he lived； at
Sycharth； for some years before the great Welsh insurrection； and
whom he survived； dying at an extreme old age beneath his own roof…
tree at Coed y Pantwn。 He composed pieces of great excellence on
various subjects； but the most remarkable of his compositions are
decidedly certain ones connected with Owen Glendower。 Amongst
these is one in which he describes the Welsh chieftain's mansion at
Sycharth； and his hospitable way of living at that his favourite
residence； and another in which he hails the advent of the comet；
which made its appearance in the month of March； fourteen hundred
and two； as of good augury to his darling hero。
It was from knowing that this distinguished man lay buried in the
precincts of the old edifice； that I felt so anxious to see it。
After walking about two miles we perceived it on our right hand。
The abbey of the vale of the cross stands in a green meadow； in a
corner near the north…west end of the valley of Llangollen。 The
vale or glen； in which the abbey stands； takes its name from a
certain ancient pillar or cross； called the pillar of Eliseg； and
which is believed to have been raised over the body of an ancient
British chieftain of that name； who perished in battle against the
Saxons； about the middle of the tenth century。 In the Papist times
the abbey was a place of great pseudo…sanctity； wealth and
consequence。 The territory belonging to it was very extensive；
comprising； amongst other districts； the vale of Llangollen and the
mountain region to the north of it； called the Eglwysig Rocks；
which region derived its name Eglwysig； or ecclesiastical； from the
circumstance of its pertaining to the abbey of the vale of the
cross。
We first reached that part of the building which had once been the
church； having previously to pass through a farmyard； in which was
abundance of dirt and mire。
The church fronts the west and contains the remains of a noble
window； beneath which is a gate； which we found locked。 Passing on
we came to that part where the monks had lived； but which now
served as a farmhouse； an open doorway exhibited to us an ancient
gloomy hall； where was some curious old…fashioned furniture；
particularly an ancient rack； in which stood a goodly range of
pewter trenchers。 A respectable dame kindly welcomed us and
invited us to sit down。 We entered into conversation with her； and
asked her name； which she said was Evans。 I spoke some Welsh to
her； which pleased her。 She said that Welsh people at the present
day were so full of fine airs that they were above speaking the old
language … but that such was not the case formerly； and that she
had known a Mrs Price； who was housekeeper to the Countess of
Mornington； who lived in London upwards of forty years； and at the
end of that time prided herself upon speaking as good Welsh as she
did when a girl。 I spoke to her about the abbey； and asked if she
had ever heard of Iolo Goch。 She inquired who he was。 I told her
he was a great bard； and was buried in the abbey。 She said she had
never heard of him； but that she could show me the portrait of a
great poet； and going away； presently returned with a print in a
frame。
〃There；〃 said she； 〃is the portrait of Twm o'r Nant； generally
called the Welsh Shakespeare。〃
I looked at it。 The Welsh Shakespeare was represented sitting at a
table with a pen in his hand； a cottage…latticed window was behind
him； on his left hand； a shelf with plates； and trenchers behind
him； on his right。 His features were rude； but full of wild；
strange expression； below the picture was the following couplet：…
〃Llun Gwr yw llawn gwir Awen；
Y Byd a lanwodd o'i Ben。〃
〃Did you ever hear of Twm o'r Nant？〃 said the old dame。
〃I never heard of him by word of mouth；〃 said I； 〃but I know all
about him … I have read his life in Welsh； written by himself； and
a curious life it is。 His name was Thomas Edwards； but he
generally called himself Twm o'r Nant； or Tom of the Dingle；
because he was born in a dingle； at a place called Pen Porchell； in
the vale of Clwyd … which； by the bye； was on the estate which once
belonged to Iolo Goch； the poet I was speaking to you about just
now。 Tom was a carter by trade； but once kept a toll…bar in South
Wales； which； however； he was obliged to leave at the end of two
years； owing to the annoyance which he experience