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If Wales has been a land of song； have not the Highlands also？ … If
Wales can boast of Ab Gwilym and Gronwy； the Highlands can boast of
Ossian and MacIntyre。 In many respects the two regions are equals
or nearly so； … In one respect； however； a matter of the present
day； and a very important matter too； they are anything but equals：
Wales has a population … but where is that of the Highlands？ …
Plenty of noble scene； Plenty of delightful associations；
historical； poetical； and romantic … but； but； where is the
population？
The population of Wales has not departed across the Atlantic； like
that of the Highlands； it remains at home； and a remarkable
population it is … very different from the present inhabitants of
several beautiful lands of olden fame； who have strangely
degenerated from their forefathers。 Wales has not only a
population； but a highly interesting one … hardy and frugal； yet
kind and hospitable … a bit crazed； it is true； on the subject of
religion； but still retaining plenty of old Celtic peculiarities；
and still speaking Diolch i Duw！ … the language of Glendower and
the Bards。
The present is a book about Wales and Welsh matters。 He who does
me the honour of perusing it will be conducted to many a spot not
only remarkable for picturesqueness； but for having been the scene
of some extraordinary event； or the birth…place or residence of a
hero or a man of genius； he will likewise be not unfrequently
introduced to the genuine Welsh； and made acquainted with what they
have to say about Cumro and Saxon； buying and selling； fattening
hogs and poultry； Methodism and baptism； and the poor； persecuted
Church of England。
An account of the language of Wales will be found in the last
chapter。 It has many features and words in common with the
Sanscrit； and many which seem peculiar to itself； or rather to the
family of languages； generally called the Celtic； to which it
belongs。 Though not an original tongue； for indeed no original
tongue； or anything approximating to one； at present exists； it is
certainly of immense antiquity； indeed almost entitled in that
respect to dispute the palm with the grand tongue of India； on
which in some respects it flings nearly as much elucidation as it
itself receives in others。 Amongst the words quoted in the chapter
alluded to I wish particularly to direct the reader's attention to
gwr； a man； and gwres； heat； to which may be added gwreichionen； a
spark。 Does not the striking similarity between these words
warrant the supposition that the ancient Cumry entertained the idea
that man and fire were one and the same； even like the ancient
Hindus； who believed that man sprang from fire； and whose word
vira； （1） which signifies a strong man； a hero； signifies also
fire？
There are of course faults and inaccuracies in the work； but I have
reason to believe that they are neither numerous nor important： I
may have occasionally given a wrong name to a hill or a brook； or
may have overstated or understated； by a furlong； the distance
between one hamlet and another； or even committed the blunder of
saying that Mr Jones Ap Jenkins lived in this or that homestead；
whereas in reality Mr Jenkins Ap Jones honoured it with his
residence： I may be chargeable with such inaccuracies； in which
case I beg to express due sorrow for them； and at the same time a
hope that I have afforded information about matters relating to
Wales which more than atones for them。 It would be as well if
those who exhibit eagerness to expose the faults of a book would
occasionally have the candour to say a word or two about its
merits； such a wish； however； is not likely to be gratified； unless
indeed they wisely take a hint from the following lines； translated
from a cywydd of the last of the great poets of Wales：
〃All can perceive a fault； where there is one …
A dirty scamp will find one； where there's none。〃 （2）
WILD WALES： ITS PEOPLE； LANGUAGE； AND SCENERY
CHAPTER I
Proposed Excursion … Knowledge of Welsh … Singular Groom …
Harmonious Distich … Welsh Pronunciation … Dafydd Ab Gwilym。
IN the summer of the year 1854 myself； wife； and daughter
determined upon going into Wales； to pass a few months there。 We
are country people of a corner of East Anglia； and； at the time of
which I am speaking； had been residing so long on our own little
estate； that we had become tired of the objects around us； and
conceived that we should be all the better for changing the scene
for a short period。 We were undetermined for some time with
respect to where we should go。 I proposed Wales from the first；
but my wife and daughter； who have always had rather a hankering
after what is fashionable； said they thought it would be more
advisable to go to Harrowgate； or Leamington。 On my observing that
those were terrible places for expense； they replied that； though
the price of corn had of late been shamefully low； we had a spare
hundred pounds or two in our pockets； and could afford to pay for a
little insight into fashionable life。 I told them that there was
nothing I so much hated as fashionable life； but that； as I was
anything but a selfish person； I would endeavour to stifle my
abhorrence of it for a time； and attend them either to Leamington
or Harrowgate。 By this speech I obtained my wish； even as I knew I
should； for my wife and daughter instantly observed； that； after
all； they thought we had better go into Wales； which； though not so
fashionable as either Leamington or Harrowgate； was a very nice
picturesque country； where； they had no doubt； they should get on
very well； more especially as I was acquainted with the Welsh
language。
It was my knowledge of Welsh； such as it was； that made me desirous
that we should go to Wales； where there was a chance that I might
turn it to some little account。 In my boyhood I had been something
of a philologist； had picked up some Latin and Greek at school；
some Irish in Ireland； where I had been with my father； who was in
the army； and subsequently whilst an articled clerk to the first
solicitor in East Anglia … indeed I may say the prince of all
English solicitors … for he was a gentleman； had learnt some Welsh；
partly from books and partly from a Welsh groom； whose acquaintance
I made。 A queer groom he was； and well deserving of having his
portrait drawn。 He might be about forty…seven years of age； and
about five feet eight inches in height； his body was spare and
wiry； his chest rather broad； and his arms remarkably long； his
legs were of the kind generally known as spindle…shanks； but
vigorous withal； for they carried his body with great agility； neck
he had none； at least that I ever observed； and his head was
anything but high； not measuring； I should think； more than four
inches from the bottom of the chin to the top of the forehead； his
cheek…bones were high； his eyes grey and deeply sunken in his face；
with an expression in them； partly sullen； and partly irascible；
his complexion was indescribable； the little hair which he had；
which wa