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think is the meaning in Saxon of Pont y Cyssylltau。〃
We set out； my guide conducted me along the bank of the Camlas in
the direction of Rhiwabon； that is towards the east。 On the way we
discoursed on various subjects； and understood each other tolerably
well。 I asked if he had been anything besides a weaver。 He told
me that when a boy he kept sheep on the mountain。 〃Why did you not
go on keeping sheep？〃 said 〃I would rather keep sheep than weave。〃
〃My parents wanted me at home； sir；〃 said he； 〃and I was not sorry
to go home； I earned little； and lived badly。〃
〃A shepherd；〃 said I； 〃can earn more than five shillings a week。〃
〃I was never a regular shepherd； sir；〃 said he。 〃But； sir； I would
rather be a weaver with five shillings a week in Llangollen； than a
shepherd with fifteen on the mountain。 The life of a shepherd；
sir； is perhaps not exactly what you and some other gentlefolks
think。 The shepherd bears much cold and wet； sir； and he is very
lonely； no society save his sheep and dog。 Then； sir； he has no
privileges。 I mean gospel privileges。 He does not look forward to
Dydd Sul； as a day of llawenydd； of joy and triumph； as the weaver
does； that is if he is religiously disposed。 The shepherd has no
chapel； sir； like the weaver。 Oh； sir； I say again that I would
rather be a weaver in Llangollen with five shillings a week； than a
shepherd on the hill with fifteen。〃
〃Do you mean to say；〃 said I； 〃that you live with your family on
five shillings a week？〃
〃No； sir。 I frequently do little commissions by which I earn
something。 Then； sir； I have friends； very good friends。 A good
lady of our congregation sent me this morning half…a…pound of
butter。 The people of our congregation are very kind to each
other； sir。〃
〃That is more；〃 thought I to myself； 〃than the people of my
congregation are； they are always cutting each other's throats。〃 I
next asked if he had been much about Wales。
〃Not much； sir。 However； I have been to Pen Caer Gybi； which you
call Holy Head； and to Beth Gelert； sir。〃
〃What took you to those places？〃
〃I was sent to those places on business； sir； as I told you before；
sir； I sometimes execute commissions。 At Beth Gelert I stayed some
time。 It was there I married； sir； my wife comes from a place
called Dol Gellyn near Beth Gelert。〃
〃What was her name？〃
〃Her name was Jones； sir。〃
〃What； before she married？〃
〃Yes； sir； before she married。 You need not be surprised； sir；
there are plenty of the name of Jones in Wales。 The name of my
brother's wife； before she married； was also Jones。〃
〃Your brother is a clever man；〃 said I。
〃Yes； sir； for a Cumro he is clebber enough。〃
〃For a Cumro？〃
〃Yes； sir； he is not a Saxon； you know。〃
〃Are Saxons then so very clever？〃
〃Oh yes； sir； who so clebber？ The clebberest people in Llangollen
are Saxons； that is； at carnal things … for at spiritual things I
do not think them at all clebber。 Look at Mr A。； sir。〃
〃Who is he？〃
〃Do you not know him； sir？ I thought everybody knew Mr A。 He is a
Saxon； sir； and keeps the inn on the road a little way below where
you live。 He is the clebberest man in Llangollen； sir。 He can do
everything。 He is a great cook； and can wash clothes better than
any woman。 Oh； sir； for carnal things； who so clebber as your
countrymen！〃
After walking about four miles by the side of the canal we left it；
and bearing to the right presently came to the aqueduct； which
strode over a deep and narrow valley； at the bottom of which ran
the Dee。 〃This is the Pont y Cysswllt； sir；〃 said my guide； 〃it's
the finest bridge in the world； and no wonder； if what the common
people say be true； namely that every stone cost a golden
sovereign。〃
We went along it； the height was awful。 My guide； though he had
been a mountain shepherd； confessed that he was somewhat afraid。
〃It gives me the pendro； sir；〃 said he； 〃to look down。〃 I too felt
somewhat dizzy； as I looked over the parapet into the glen。 The
canal which this mighty bridge carries across the gulf is about
nine feet wide； and occupies about two…thirds of the width of the
bridge and the entire western side。 The footway is towards the
east。 From about the middle of the bridge there is a fine view of
the forges on the Cefn Bach and also of a huge hill near it called
the Cefn Mawr。 We reached the termination； and presently crossing
the canal by a little wooden bridge we came to a village。 My guide
then said； 〃If you please； sir； we will return by the old bridge；
which leads across the Dee in the bottom of the vale。〃 He then led
me by a romantic road to a bridge on the west of the aqueduct； and
far below。 It seemed very ancient。 〃This is the old bridge； sir；〃
said my guide； 〃it was built a hundred years before the Pont y
Cysswllt was dreamt of。〃 We now walked to the west； in the
direction of Llangollen； along the bank of the river。 Presently we
arrived where the river； after making a bend； formed a pool。 It
was shaded by lofty trees； and to all appearance was exceedingly
deep。 I stopped to look at it； for I was struck with its gloomy
horror。 〃That pool； sir；〃 said John Jones； 〃is called Llyn y
Meddwyn； the drunkard's pool。 It is called so； sir； because a
drunken man once fell into it； and was drowned。 There is no deeper
pool in the Dee； sir； save one； a little below Llangollen； which is
called the pool of Catherine Lingo。 A girl of that name fell into
it； whilst gathering sticks on the high bank above it。 She was
drowned； and the pool was named after her。 I never look at either
without shuddering； thinking how certainly I should be drowned if I
fell in； for I cannot swim； sir。〃
〃You should have learnt to swim when you were young；〃 said I； 〃and
to dive too。 I know one who has brought up stones from the bottom；
I daresay； of deeper pools than either； but he was a Saxon； and at
carnal things； you know； none so clebber as the Saxons。〃
I found my guide a first…rate walker and a good botanist； knowing
the names of all the plants and trees in Welsh。 By the time we
returned to Llangollen I had formed a very high opinion of him； in
which I was subsequently confirmed by what I saw of him during the
period of our acquaintance； which was of some duration。 He was
very honest； disinterested； and exceedingly good…humoured。 It is
true； he had his little skits occasionally at the Church； and
showed some marks of hostility to the church cat； more especially
when he saw it mounted on my shoulders； for the creature soon began
to take liberties； and in less than a week after my arrival at the
cottage； generally mounted on my back； when it saw me reading or
writing； for the sake of the warmth。 But setting aside those same
skits at the Church； and that dislike of the church cat； venial
trifles after all； and easily to be accounted for； on the score of
his religious education； I found nothing to blame； and much to
admire； in John Jones； the Calvinistic Methodist of Llangollen。
CHAPTER XIII
Divine Service … Llangollen Bells … Iolo Goch … The