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near。 Universal silence now prevailed； sullen looks were cast at
me； and I saw clearly enough that I was not welcome。 Frankness was
now my only resource。 〃What's the matter； gentlemen？〃 said I； 〃you
are silent and don't greet me kindly； have I given you any cause of
offence？〃 No one uttered a word in reply for nearly a minute； when
the old man said slowly and deliberately： 〃Why； sir； the long and
short of it is this： we have got it into our heads that you
understand every word of our discourse； now； do you or do you not？〃
〃Understand every word of your discourse？〃 said I； 〃I wish I did； I
would give five pounds to understand every word of your discourse。〃
〃That's a clever attempt to get off； sir；〃 said the old man； 〃but
it won't exactly do。 Tell us whether you know more Welsh than bara
y caws； or to speak more plainly； whether you understand a good
deal of what we say。〃
〃Well；〃 said I； 〃I do understand more Welsh than bara y caws … I do
understand a considerable part of a Welsh conversation； moreover； I
can read Welsh； and have the life of Tom O'r Nant at my fingers'
ends。〃
〃Well； sir； that is speaking plain； and I will tell you plainly
that we don't like to have strangers among us who understand our
discourse； more especially if they be gentlefolks。〃
〃That's strange；〃 said I； 〃a Welshman or foreigner； gentle or
simple； may go into a public…house in England； and nobody cares a
straw whether he understands the discourse of the company or not。〃
〃That may be the custom in England；〃 said the old man； 〃but it is
not so in Wales。〃
〃What have you got to conceal？〃 said I； 〃I suppose you are honest
men。〃
〃I hope we are； sir；〃 said the old man； 〃but I must tell you； once
for all； that we don't like strangers to listen to our discourse。〃
〃Come；〃 said I； 〃I will not listen to your discourse； but you shall
listen to mine。 I have a wonderful deal to say if I once begin； I
have been everywhere。〃
〃Well； sir；〃 said the old man； 〃if you have anything to tell us
about where you have been and what you have seen； we shall be glad
to hear you。〃
〃Have you ever been in Russia？〃 shouted a voice； that of the large
rough fellow who asked me the question about the Russian war。
〃Oh yes； I have been in Russia；〃 said I。
〃Well； what kind of a country is it？〃
〃Very different from this；〃 said I； 〃which is a little country up
in a corner； full of hills and mountains； that is an immense
country； extending from the Baltic Sea to the confines of China；
almost as flat as a pancake； there not being a hill to be seen for
nearly two thousand miles。〃
〃A very poor country isn't it； always covered with ice and snow？〃
〃Oh no； it is one of the richest countries in the world； producing
all kinds of grain； with noble rivers intersecting it； and in some
parts covered with stately forests。 In the winter； which is rather
long； there is a good deal of ice and snow； it is true； but in the
summer the weather is warmer than here。〃
〃And are there any towns and cities in Russia； sir； as there are in
Britain？〃 said the old man who had resigned his seat in the
chimney…corner to me； 〃I suppose not； or if there be； nothing equal
to Hereford or Bristol； in both of which I have been。〃
〃Oh yes；〃 said I； 〃there are plenty of towns and cities。 The two
principal ones are Moscow and Saint Petersburg； both of which are
capitals。 Moscow is a fine old city； far up the country； and was
the original seat of empire。 In it there is a wonderful building
called the Kremlin； situated on a hill。 It is partly palace；
partly temple； and partly fortress。 In one of its halls are I
don't know how many crowns； taken from various kings whom the
Russians have conquered。 But the most remarkable thing in the
Kremlin is a huge bell in a cellar or cave； close by one of the
churches； it is twelve feet high； and the sound it gives when
struck with an iron bar； for there are no clappers to Russian
bells； is so loud that the common Russians say it can be heard over
the empire。 The other city； Saint Petersburg； where the Court
generally reside； is a modern and very fine city； so fine indeed；
that I have no hesitation in saying that neither Bristol nor
Hereford is worthy to be named in the same day with it。 Many of
the streets are miles in length； and straight as an arrow。 The
Nefsky Prospect； as it is called； a street which runs from the
grand square； where stands the Emperor's palace； to the monastery
of Saint Alexander Nefsky； is nearly three miles in length； and is
full of noble shops and houses。 The Neva； a river twice as broad
and twice as deep as the Thames； and whose waters are clear as
crystal； runs through the town； having on each side of it a superb
quay； fenced with granite； which affords one of the most delightful
walks imaginable。 If I had my choice of all the cities of the
world to live in； I would choose Saint Petersburg。〃
〃And did you ever see the Emperor？〃 said the rough fellow； whom I
have more than once mentioned； 〃did you ever see the Emperor
Nicholas？〃
〃Oh yes： I have seen him frequently。〃
〃Well； what kind of a man is he？ we should like to know。〃
〃A man of colossal stature； with a fine； noble； but rather stern
and severe aspect。 I think I now see him； with his grey cloak；
cocked hat； and white waving plumes； striding down the Nefsky
Prospect； and towering by a whole head over other people。〃
〃Bravo！ Did you ever see him at the head of his soldiers？〃
〃Oh yes！ I have seen the Emperor review forty thousand of his
chosen troops in the Champs de Mars； and a famous sight it was。
There stood the great； proud man looking at his warriors as they
manoeuvred before him。 Two…thirds of them were cavalry； and each
horseman was mounted on a beautiful blood charger of Cossack or
English breed； and arrayed in a superb uniform。 The blaze； glitter
and glory were too much for my eyes； and I was frequently obliged
to turn them away。 The scene upon the whole put me in mind of an
immense field of tulips of various dyes； for the colours of the
dresses； of the banners and the plumes； were as gorgeous and
manifold as the hues of those queenly flowers。〃
〃Bravo！〃 said twenty voices； 〃the gentleman speaks like an
areithiwr。 Have you been in other countries besides Russia？〃
〃Oh yes！ I have been in Turkey； the people of which are not
Christians； but frequently put Christians to shame by their good
faith and honesty。 I have been in the land of the Maugrabins； or
Moors … a people who live on a savoury dish called couscousoo； and
have the gloomiest faces and the most ferocious hearts under
heaven。 I have been in Italy； whose people； though the most clever
in the world； are the most unhappy； owing to the tyranny of a being
called the Pope； who； when I saw him； appeared to be under the
influence of strong drink。 I have been in Portugal； the people of
which supply the whole world with wine； and drink only water
themselves。 I have been in Spain； a very fine country； the people
of which are never so happy as when paying other folks' reckonings。
I have been