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pieces are written with astonishing vigour； for example； 〃The Song
of the Husbandman；〃 and 〃God's Better than All；〃 of which last
piece the following is a literal translation：…
〃GOD'S BETTER THAN ALL …
〃God's better than heaven or aught therein；
Than the earth or aught we there can win；
Better than the world or its wealth to me …
God's better than all that is or can be。
Better than father； than mother； than nurse；
Better than riches； oft proving a curse；
Better than Martha or Mary even …
Better by far is the God of heaven。
If God for thy portion thou hast ta'en
There's Christ to support thee in every pain；
The world to respect thee thou wilt gain；
To fear thee the fiend and all his train。
Of the best of portions thou choice didst make
When thou the high God to thyself didst take；
A portion which none from thy grasp can rend
Whilst the sun and the moon on their course shall wend
When the sun grows dark and the moon turns red；
When the stars shall drop and millions dread；
When the earth shall vanish with its pomps in fire；
Thy portion still shall remain entire。
Then let not thy heart； though distressed； complain！
A hold on thy portion firm maintain。
Thou didst choose the best portion； again I say …
Resign it not till thy dying day。〃
The old vicarage of Llandovery is a very large mansion of dark red
brick； fronting the principal street or market…place； and with its
back to a green meadow bounded by the river Bran。 It is in a very
dilapidated condition； and is inhabited at present by various poor
families。 The principal room； which is said to have been the old
vicar's library； and the place where he composed his undying
Candle； is in many respects a remarkable apartment。 It is of large
dimensions。 The roof is curiously inlaid with stucco or mortar；
and is traversed from east to west by an immense black beam。 The
fire…place； which is at the south； is very large and seemingly of
high antiquity。 The windows； which are two in number and look
westward into the street； have a quaint and singular appearance。
Of all the houses in Llandovery the old vicarage is by far the most
worthy of attention； irrespective of the wonderful monument of
God's providence and grace who once inhabited it。
The reverence in which the memory of Rees Pritchard is still held
in Llandovery the following anecdote will show。 As I was standing
in the principal street staring intently at the antique vicarage； a
respectable…looking farmer came up and was about to pass； but
observing how I was employed he stopped； and looked now at me and
now at the antique house。 Presently he said
〃A fine old place； is it not； sir？ but do you know who lived
there？〃
Wishing to know what the man would say provided he thought I was
ignorant as to the ancient inmate； I turned a face of inquiry upon
him； whereupon he advanced towards me two or three steps； and
placing his face so close to mine that his nose nearly touched my
cheek； he said in a kind of piercing whisper …
〃The Vicar。〃
Then drawing his face back he looked me full in the eyes as if to
observe the effect of his intelligence； gave me two nods as if to
say； 〃He did； indeed；〃 and departed。
THE Vicar of Llandovery had then been dead nearly two hundred
years。 Truly the man in whom piety and genius are blended is
immortal upon earth。
CHAPTER XCVIII
Departure from Llandovery … A Bitter Methodist … North and South …
The Caravan … Captain Bosvile … Deputy Ranger … A Scrimmage … The
Heavenly Gwynfa … Dangerous Position。
ON the tenth I departed from Llandovery； which I have no hesitation
in saying is about the pleasantest little town in which I have
halted in the course of my wanderings。 I intended to sleep at
Gutter Vawr； a place some twenty miles distant； just within
Glamorganshire； to reach which it would be necessary to pass over
part of a range of wild hills； generally called the Black
Mountains。 I started at about ten o'clock； the morning was
lowering； and there were occasional showers of rain and hail。 I
passed by Rees Pritchard's church； holding my hat in my hand as I
did so； not out of respect for the building； but from reverence for
the memory of the sainted man who of old from its pulpit called
sinners to repentance； and whose remains slumber in the churchyard
unless washed away by some frantic burst of the neighbouring Towey。
Crossing a bridge over the Bran just before it enters the greater
stream； I proceeded along a road running nearly south and having a
range of fine hills on the east。 Presently violent gusts of wind
came on； which tore the sear leaves by thousands from the trees； of
which there were plenty by the roadsides。 After a little time；
however； this elemental hurly…burly passed away； a rainbow made its
appearance； and the day became comparatively fine。 Turning to the
south…east under a hill covered with oaks； I left the vale of the
Towey behind me； and soon caught a glimpse of some very lofty hills
which I supposed to be the Black Mountains。 It was a mere glimpse；
for scarcely had I descried them when mist settled down and totally
obscured them from my view。
In about an hour I reached Llangadog； a large village。 The name
signifies the church of Gadog。 Gadog was a British saint of the
fifth century； who after labouring amongst his own countrymen for
their spiritual good for many years； crossed the sea to Brittany；
where he died。 Scarcely had I entered Llangadog when a great
shower of rain came down。 Seeing an ancient…looking hostelry I at
once made for it。 In a large and comfortable kitchen I found a
middle…aged woman seated by a huge deal table near a blazing fire；
with a couple of large books open before her。 Sitting down on a
chair I told her in English to bring me a pint of ale。 She did so；
and again sat down to her books； which on inquiry I found to be a
Welsh Bible and Concordance。 We soon got into discourse about
religion； but did not exactly agree； for she was a bitter
Methodist； as bitter as her beer； only half of which I could get
down。
Leaving Llangadog I pushed forward。 The day was now tolerably
fine。 In two or three hours I came to a glen； the sides of which
were beautifully wooded。 On my left was a river； which came
roaring down from a range of lofty mountains right before me to the
south…east。 The river； as I was told by a lad； was the Sawdde or
Southey； the lofty range the Black Mountains。 Passed a pretty
village on my right standing something in the shape of a
semicircle； and in about half…an…hour came to a bridge over a river
which I supposed to be the Sawdde which I had already seen； but
which I subsequently learned was an altogether different stream。
It was running from the south； a wild； fierce flood； amidst rocks
and stones； the waves all roaring and foaming。
After some time I reached another bridge near the foot of a very
lofty ascent。 On my left to the east upon a bank was a small
house； on one side of which was a wheel turned round by a flush of
water running in a little artificial canal； close by it were two
sm