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away； and scarcely had I done so when the door was slammed to
behind me with great force； and I heard two 〃aughs；〃 one not quite
so deep and abhorrent as the other； probably proceeding from the
throat of the younger female。
〃Two regular Saxon…hating Welsh women；〃 said I； philosophically；
〃just of the same sort no doubt as those who played such pranks on
the slain bodies of the English soldiers； after the victory
achieved by Glendower over Mortimer on the Severn's side。〃
I proceeded in the direction indicated； winding round the side of
the hill； the same mountain which the old man had pointed out to me
some time before。 At length； on making a turn I saw a very lofty
mountain in the far distance to the south…west； a hill right before
me to the south； and； on my left； a meadow overhung by the southern
hill； in the middle of which stood a house from which proceeded a
violent barking of dogs。 I would fain have made immediately up to
it for the purpose of inquiring my way； but saw no means of doing
so； a high precipitous bank lying between it and me。 I went
forward and ascended the side of the hill before me； and presently
came to a path running east and west。 I followed it a little way
towards the east。 I was now just above the house； and saw some
children and some dogs standing beside it。 Suddenly I found myself
close to a man who stood in a hollow part of the road； from which a
narrow path led down to the house； a donkey with panniers stood
beside him。 He was about fifty years of age； with a carbuncled
countenance； high but narrow forehead； grey eyebrows； and small；
malignant grey eyes。 He had a white hat； with narrow eaves and the
crown partly knocked out； a torn blue coat； corduroy breeches； long
stockings and highlows。 He was sucking a cutty pipe； but seemed
unable to extract any smoke from it。 He had all the appearance of
a vagabond； and of a rather dangerous vagabond。 I nodded to him；
and asked him in Welsh the name of the place。 He glared at me
malignantly； then； taking the pipe out of his mouth； said that he
did not know； that he had been down below to inquire and light his
pipe； but could get neither light nor answer from the children。 I
asked him where he came from； but he evaded the question by asking
where I was going to。
〃To the Pont y Gwr Drwg；〃 said I。
He then asked me if I was an Englishman。
〃Oh yes；〃 said I； 〃I am Carn Sais；〃 whereupon； with a strange
mixture in his face of malignity and contempt； he answered in
English that he didn't understand me。
〃You understood me very well；〃 said I； without changing my
language； 〃till I told you I was an Englishman。 Harkee； man with
the broken hat； you are one of the bad Welsh who don't like the
English to know the language； lest they should discover your lies
and rogueries。〃 He evidently understood what I said； for he
gnashed his teeth； though he said nothing。 〃Well；〃 said I； 〃I
shall go down to those children and inquire the name of the house；〃
and I forthwith began to descend the path； the fellow uttering a
contemptuous 〃humph〃 behind me； as much as to say； 〃Much you'll
make out down there。〃 I soon reached the bottom and advanced
towards the house。 The dogs had all along been barking violently；
as I drew near to them； however； they ceased； and two of the
largest came forward wagging their tails。 〃The dogs were not
barking at me；〃 said I； 〃but at that vagabond above。〃 I went up to
the children； they were four in number； two boys and two girls； all
red…haired； but tolerably good…looking。 They had neither shoes nor
stockings。 〃What is the name of this house？〃 said I to the eldest；
a boy about seven years old。 He looked at me； but made no answer。
I repeated my question； still there was no answer； but methought I
heard a humph of triumph from the hill。 〃Don't crow quite yet； old
chap；〃 thought I to myself； and putting my hand into my pocket； I
took out a penny； and offering it to the child said： 〃Now； small
man； Peth yw y enw y lle hwn？〃 Instantly the boy's face became
intelligent； and putting out a fat little hand； he took the ceiniog
and said in an audible whisper； 〃Waen y Bwlch。〃 〃I am all right；〃
said I to myself； 〃that is one of the names of the places which the
old ostler said I must go through。〃 Then addressing myself to the
child I said： 〃Where's your father and mother？〃
〃Out on the hill；〃 whispered the child。
〃What's your father？〃
〃A shepherd。〃
〃Good；〃 said I。 〃Now can you tell me the way to the bridge of the
evil man？〃 But the features became blank； the finger was put to
the mouth； and the head was hung down。 That question was evidently
beyond the child's capacity。 〃Thank you！〃 said I； and turning
round I regained the path on the top of the bank。 The fellow and
his donkey were still there。 〃I had no difficulty；〃 said I； 〃in
obtaining information； the place's name is Waen y Bwlch。 But oes
genoch dim Cumraeg … you have no Welsh。〃 Thereupon I proceeded
along the path in the direction of the east。 Forthwith the fellow
said something to his animal； and both came following fast behind。
I quickened my pace； but the fellow and his beast were close in my
rear。 Presently I came to a place where another path branched off
to the south。 I stopped； looked at it； and then went on； but
scarcely had done so when I heard another exulting 〃humph〃 behind。
〃I am going wrong；〃 said I to myself； 〃that other path is the way
to the Devil's Bridge； and the scamp knows it or he would not have
grunted。〃 Forthwith I faced round； and brushing past the fellow
without a word turned into the other path and hurried along it。 By
a side glance which I cast I could see him staring after me；
presently； however； he uttered a sound very much like a Welsh
curse； and； kicking his beast； proceeded on his way； and I saw no
more of him。 In a little time I came to a slough which crossed the
path。 I did not like the look of it at all； and to avoid it
ventured upon some green mossy…looking ground to the left； and had
scarcely done so when I found myself immersed to the knees in a
bog。 I； however； pushed forward； and with some difficulty got to
the path on the other side of the slough。 I followed the path； and
in about half…an…hour saw what appeared to be houses at a distance。
〃God grant that I maybe drawing near some inhabited place！〃 said I。
The path now grew very miry； and there were pools of water on
either side。 I moved along slowly。 At length I came to a place
where some men were busy in erecting a kind of building。 I went up
to the nearest and asked him the name of the place。 He had a
crowbar in his hand； was half naked； had a wry mouth and only one
eye。 He made me no answer； but mowed and gibbered at me。
〃For God's sake；〃 said I； 〃don't do so； but tell me where I am！〃
He still uttered no word； but mowed and gibbered yet more
frightfully than before。 As I stood staring at him another man
came to me and said in broken English： 〃It is of no use speaking
to him； sir； he is deaf and dumb。〃
〃I am glad he is no worse；〃 said I； 〃f